1652 Hunt Deck Build

Jeffrey P

Jeffrey P

Member
Hello all,

I am designing and building a 16' jon boat with a 52 inch bottom and a 20 inch hunt deck. Plywood/epoxy/fiberglass sandwich. I plan to put a 25 hp long tail on the false transom forward of the hunt deck, not at the rear. I doubt I'll set any speed records, but as long as the boat will plane I'll be happy.

The program for the boat is: Launch and run well before dawn on a known course with 4 adults and 100 lbs of gear in water from 1 to 8 foot in depth. Make acceptable, safe headway in rain and wind/water conditions that generally yields good duck hunting (Beaufort 4?) Survive occasional collision with submerged/floating log. Unsinkable. Speed, dry ride, storage not primary requirements, but obviously a plus.

I will be posting my progress here with plenty of pics.

Any comments, suggestions, or questions will be appreciated.

- Jeffrey
 
This is probably the last time this boat will fit in the back of my truck.

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First I had to build a 16' table. The legs are 24". I hope it doesn't cause the boat to be too high when sanding the hull.

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First half sheathed.

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Square and level. Weather was cool and windy when I was building this table last week. The carport was clean when I started, but the wind blew the post oak leaves in everywhere.

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I included this photo of my plywood stacked under a 60 lb. post driver to reflect on the fact that building a boat is not an overnight, instant gratification type of project. I had this plywood secured originally with a strap. When I got home the next day, my 6 month old Black Mouth Cur, Lady, whom I have labled "The Destroyer" had chewed it in two where it spanned the underside of the table.

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Here's a pic where The Destroyer chewed the corners of some extra 2x6's that I had. She missed the 1x6's underneath...those are for cleats. I had to calm my thoughts, slow down, and think of how to keep this pup from eating my transoms and side panels, etc., which I had wanted to store under the table waiting on assembly.

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My solution was to fence around the table, leaving openings where I could open to access underneath and then close back.

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Laying out the transom.

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First cut should always be documented...

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Transom cut out and tracing the second layer. The transom (false transom, actually) will be 3 layers of 1/2" plywood laminated for a 1-1/2 total.

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I was right about the beam, this boat will never fit into that pickup. Planning on putting on a trailer anyway.

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Looks like you are diving right in!
Have you run the numbers to see if your weight capacity is going to match your hull design? 4 guys, gear and a long tail motor/gas/battery sounds like around 1200 pounds (4x200+100+300) to me. That's a lot of weight in a 16' boat.
There is a coast guard formula out there, might want to check it out.
 
You're right, sir.

I originally figured to ferry my hunting partner and our sons, ages 14 and 11, out to the blind. I put four adults in the program to plan for the future.

But you're right on with your calculations. I found the CG formula here: http://www.uscgboating.org/regulations/boatbuilder_s_handbook/safe_subc_parti.aspx, and estimated my displacement with the 16 inch transom at 145,325 cu in x 0.004329 gal per cu in = 629 gal or 5,032 pounds. The CG formula is 20% of the displacement after hull weight which comes to 966 pounds maximum safe load.

With the youngsters on board it will probably be 1,000 pounds, so, like you said, it'll be a lot.

Thanks for the insight.
 
Using a batten to draw the bow side panels. The bottom of the hull is about 17' 8" long due to the hunt deck, so I broke the side panels up into approximately 6' long pieces. I didn't want the main hull 16' length broken into two neat lengths and then the hunt deck just tabbed on. Didn't seem very strong joint with the height of the deck only 10".

Here I've nested the aft and bow sections.

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Once I had the panels drawn, I clamped and screwed the two pieces of plywood together prior to cutting so that the two side would be identical. Put the "B" side outboard to minimize sanding.

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I forgot to mention, I'm building this boat with my son. Here he is putting together "the puzzle" after I taught him a few terms: port, starboard, bow, stern, etc.

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All laid out. The starboard midship section (on the left in the photo) has got the "C" side, the rougher side, out...I forgot to reverse the bottom piece of plywood prior to cutting. Looks like I'll be filling/sanding that one a bit.

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Here's the stern section and hunt deck mocked up with false transom.

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This post brings me up to date. I picked up another piece of 1/2" for the third transom layer. The next step is to order epoxy and tape and butt the side panels. While that's on the way I can cut the stringers and the frames for the midship seat.
 
Excellent, you have definitely done your homework.
Have fun with the build!
 
Thanks, Carl. I hope I didn't come across as smug and that I didn't need your help. I actually looked up the formula after you mentioned it. I appreciate you bringing it to my attention and giving me the benefit of your experience...I hope others will do the same.

I've been thinking about something else, too. I calculated displacement at the point water would come over the 16" transom, but the rear deck will be 19" tall, theoretically preventing water from flooding the boat from the rear for another few inches. This should increase displacement by 15% or so. I guess I'll find out what looks and feels safe when she actually floats.

Thanks again. - Jeffrey
 
Started laying out the stringers...it was after dark and the lighting was terrible on this pic. The bow section of the side panel is in the top of the pic...I traced it to shape the forward ends of the stringers.

The stringers are 3" tall and will be two layers of 3/8" plywood laminated together with staggered splices. They will span about 13' 8" of the hull and will extend through the false transom to the end of the hunt deck (the transom) and provide the primary framing support for the sole. Flotation foam will go under the sole.

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Ordered my tape and epoxy today. Still have to figure what weight cloth I want on the hull. I ordered the medium hardener...the highs for the next week are forecasted in the 60s and 70s. Ugh...not really Christmas or hunting weather. I like it cold.
 
Worked on an "uh-oh" today. When I put the two transom pieces together, I noticed that they weren't symmetrical... the 16" high opening for the motor mount on the transom wasn't level. Turns out one side was almost 1/16" higher than the other. Probably could've fixed it when sanding the transom layers after joining, but I needed to fix something else, too.

The point at which the transom opening transitions from horizontal and starts upward is under tremendous stress from the engine pushing forward..I need to takes the angle out of that point and round it off so it will tolerate the forces better.

I widened the horizontal from 24" to 26" and rounded that transition point.

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Cut both layers at once

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After cutting, I traced the new shape onto the third transom layer.

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Final false transom thickness.

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I also changed the stringers from 3/8" doubled to 1/2" doubled. I had enough 1/2" after I cut the last transom layer.

They're laid out and I started matching up cut points to cut two layers at once so they would be identical. All joints are staggered.

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My buddy stopped by and gave me an early Chrsimas present. Seemed like a good time to shut her down for the day..

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Not at all, didn't take it that way at all.
Keep the pics coming, cant wait to see her on the water!
 
Looking forward to seeing your finished boat! My boat is 17'9" x 48" including a 20" hunt deck. I'd never want to run a longtail motor without a hunt deck now.
 
Thank you, Carl, Brandon, Phil, and PT. I can't wait to splash her either!

Taylor, is your long tail mounted forward or aft of the gun the hunt deck?
 
There is no science, only my perception to this statement. Given the type of plywood you are using, I would make sure that there is an adequate amount of resin on the plywood before putting on the cloth. As it like a sponge.
 
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