2 hp Evinrude mate.

leslie riggan

leslie riggan

Well-known member
I bought a 2 hp evinrude mate the other day at a yard sale. I bought the thing for a mere 20.00 I have once overed it and looks good. There is a high speed knob/adjustment on the front. The adjustment knob works itself loose when the engine is running, and will allows to much fuel into the carb and floods the engine. Anyone had experience with these little horses? I am currently looking for a repair manual if anyone has a line on one I'd appreciate the help.
 
Leslie,

I rebuilt a 67 3hp Evinrude, its posted a few pages back as 1967 Evinrude Lightwin Rebuild or something like that. I believe the knob your referring to is actually a low speed adjustment to set the lean of the gas for the lowest and smoothest idle. Those older Evinrude motors have a set high speed. There are two gaskets that get packed in to seal the neeedle and hold pressure. It sounds like yours a worn out and need replacing. You can order a new carb kit from NAPA. There is a sweet link that will tell you everything you need to know about your motor. I will find it and get it to you asap.
 
Please post to all, as I picked up a 82 2hp last week as well that needs a carb rebuild, and maybe pump rebuild? Thanks, Dave
 
It may very well be worn out but on the 1974 model there is two adjustments one for slow and one for fast. Here are the pics I took tonight. Thanks for the tip on Napa I'll give them a call tommorow.

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>>Leslie,

>>I rebuilt a 67 3hp Evinrude, its posted a few pages back as 1967 Evinrude Lightwin Rebuild or something like that. I believe the knob your referring to is actually a low speed adjustment to set the lean of the gas for the lowest and smoothest idle. Those older Evinrude motors have a set high speed. There are two gaskets that get packed in to seal the neeedle and hold pressure. It sounds like yours a worn out and need replacing. You can order a new carb kit from NAPA. There is a sweet link that will tell you everything you need to know about your motor. I will find it and get it to you asap.<< . Brandon would you please post up that link? I've got two Lightwins and consider them to be really awesome motors. One of them I bought for $75 out of the newspaper is getting tired and fouls the lower cylinder spark plug. The other one came from a garage sale and purrs like a kitten. These are really, really, really great motors. They start well in the cold, are built to last, parts are still available, the weedless drive does an excellent job on a small duck boat and two cylinders are super smooth. For about 10 years I used the first one mentioned on on a 15 foot sneak boat traveling very substantial distances on Saginaw Bay and then layout hunting on open water. These little Evinrudes work well for that because if you turn off the gas valve until it quits, then close the gas tank vent you can tuck them under the bow of the boat and they don't leak a drop.
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Leslie, Not an expert on outboard motors,but there might be a lock nut on the high and low speed idle. Some times these are missing or loose. If they are problems problems. Once set and if they aren't accidently bumped the motor should run fine.

I was bought up on two and three horse motors ,Champion, Scott Atwater,Martin, Clinton, Elto, Evenrude. This was a problem all of them had. If they got out of adjustment. They wouldn't start or keep running.

I think the Martin was the worse. The one we had no lock nut and the vibration of the motor would put it out of adjustment. I think that when I first learned to swear. Other wise it was a good motor. Its was round and Black just like a Eight ball and some times acted like it.

I have a two horse Evenrude now. My back up motor. Always starts. The only motor I bought new.
 
I looked at the fast rich lean adjustment. When it is "in" there is no lock nut or provision for one. It's just a smooth shaft with a slip on style knob. About 2 inches down the threads start and runs to the taper for the jet. This motor runs fine if I hold it in position but like you said the vibration backs it out and kills the motor(and fouls the plug). This little jewel would be great for my gheenoe and I like the weight of the thing. Could you post some pic of your motor? Specifically of the carb area. I have asked around about these and everyone here jokingly says it's just above paddling, it aint worth the time or money. I wonder if I put some teflon tape on the threads if it would stop? Thanks for the leads.
 
Leslie,

There has to be something that seals against this adjustment screw or there would be air or fuel leakage past the shaft and/or threads. Two things to check for

(A) Does the adjustment screw go into a "hex" where it enters the carb? If so this is a packing nut. the packing is probably shot and will need replace but you might try tightening the nut to squeeze the packing tighter around the screw.

(B) No nut? Look for an "O" ring inside the hole the adjustment screw goes into. Sometimes they use an "O"ring to seal the screw and the friction of the "O" ring is what keeps the screw in adjustment. If the "O"ring is shot it needs replaced. They can be a bitch to get out but work carefully with a slender pick and you should be able to peel it out. Putting some silicone grease on the new one before installing will make things easier.

None of the above? Too bad, now your on your own.
 
There is a nut that is before the carb body. I did not know that is a "packing nut". What kinda packing is it? I have looked at the internet for resources but I have been coming up empty. It seems the knowledge lies within the guys that had one in the past.
 
I just looked on BRP's site at a 72 2hp and the two adjusters have packing and a nut that fits around the rod and screws into the carb. The packing comes with a carb rebuild kit.
 
Leslie,

I couldn't tell you what type of material is used. A new one will look like a miniature donut. I'll bet if you take both the screw and the packing nut to either a small engine shop or a good auto parts store they could fix you up. Might even be able to use a packing for a paint spray gun. A packing that will stand up to paint solvents should also hold up to gasoline fuel.

The ID and OD of the packing would have to be a fairly close fit, as there is only so much "squeeze" factor built into it.

PS. Like Lee says, If there is a carb kit available, go that route.
 
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Thanks guys, Napa said they may have a carb kit listed but it's in a catalog "somewhere". I am still waiting on the call to see if they can order me one. they said they'd let me know by friday. I am indebted to this site and it's patrons.
 
Leslie, I disagree with them that say It isn't worth fixing. If they had to row a mile or two when their main motor quit. On a small boat thats the way to go.

A thought, If where it the shaft goes through the shell if the hole isn't to big a piece of tubing over the shaft. Our Ace hardware had tube in different I.D. Even wrapping the shaft with electrical tape at the shell untill it binds.

If you are near a hobby store that sell radio control air planes, they have collars that fit over rods. They have a Allen set screw to lock them on to the rod. One on either side of the shell with a rubber gommet in between or a rubber washer. Once its adjusted lock it tight.

Leslie If you have problems getting collars let me know the shaft dia. and I will look in my work shop for some. They use them for keeping the wheels on Air planes.

The only problem I have with Teflon is if it got into the carb. I don't know if lock tight would work ?
 
Leslie,

Sorry man, I have been away from the internet for two days. The nut that goes over the needle has a gasket /washer but there are two gasket/washers that go in the actual shaft. When the washers are in as far as they can go you screw the needle in. The washers are packed into the shaft where it is bevelled (sp?) and forces a seal agaist the shaft and the needles threaded portion creates threads into the washers which are a card board material. I had the same problem on my 67 3hp the gaskets were just worn out. You can either pick them out with a plaque thingy the dentist uses or blow them out with a compressor. When I replaced the gaskets the needle was difficult to turn and did not move on it's own. I turned it out 1 1/4 turns and found the sweet spot and it runs like a top now. While I was gone I hunted in a game area and I motored out to a spot that took me a good 40 min to get there with the motor wide open, ran great the whole time. Plus when it was time for me to pull over a dike I just grabbed my motor with one hand and carried it over. You might not be the fastest but they are reliable and easy to fix. Once again, I apologize but here is the web site. It told me everything about my 3hp I could ever need. I will get those pictures up for you too. Any more questions, I will help you out as much as possible. The site can help you out with your model # etc, it is mainly based on the older motors but once you take the cover off they are pretty much the same. Give those NAPA guys the OMC and model # and they will have a rebuild kit. If they have one for a 67 they should have one for yours.

http://www.outboard-boat-motor-repair.com/index.htm
 
Oh, and to your little motor bashers, let them try to paddle as fast as me in a fully loaded sneak box against the wind for 40 min straight, they will beg for a ride. And I don't care how much you paid for your 16ft War Eagle with a 25hp Pro-Drive, you still can't hide like me. Don't they know the tortoise beat the hare?
 
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stopped by napa and picked up my kit today. I have already cranked her up and let it run. I also checked the impeller amd she's good. The motor is the perfect thing for my 13 Gheenoe. I'm going to give it a new look soon and I will post up as I progress. All I can say is thanks for taking the time to help.
 
Leslie,I seen the video of that Gheenoe.It is incredably(sp) stable for its beam.Of course that team knew how to stand.What color is yours?That little motor should do the job
in the marsh when it's too deep for a pole.Season opens 21 Nov for only five days then 13 Dec.I wonder why they have it closed, in between, so long.
 
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