20" or 15" transom on Duck Boss 13?

[FourRiversCo - Broc]

I've been looking at them. As if I need another boat. Boats are like nice firearms, more is never enough. I would like the 15" transom as well. I can't get past the part about them cutting 5" off the transom for an upcharge. Both the surgery and the fee are offensive to me.

The molds are built for long shaft. I suggest the long shaft as it gets your tiller handle up above the cockpit edge so it doesn’t interfere with steering. Can you please explain why the surgery and the fees are offensive?

 

[FourRiversCo - Broc]

The only downside really, is with the 15" transom, on the Yamaha 25, the tilt lever is buried under there with the motor up. It's hard to describe but when the motor is locked all the way up, it's very difficult to access. My only gripe really. I am not sure where Mercury puts theirs.

This is why I try to get customers to get the standard (20”) transom. I understand it makes the motor a little higher for the hide, but controlling the boat is so much easier. I also think the standard transom pairs with jack plates better. I will say the 16’ Low Profile I had built for us to use last season had a short shaft motor on it and I will put a long shaft on the new one.

 

[SJ Fairbank]

The molds are built for long shaft. I suggest the long shaft as it gets your tiller handle up above the cockpit edge so it doesn’t interfere with steering. Can you please explain why the surgery and the fees are offensive?

Tough to answer your question without further offense, but I'll tone it down. I object to paying extra to butcher a new vessel in order to mount what seems to me the correct motor for the hull and use. Your comment about clearing the coaming is noted. It's a low profile boat, I would prefer not to mount a long shaft motor resulting in a higher profile.