AA Broadbill Question/Concern

Kelley.Patterson

Kelley.Patterson

New member
Hi all, long time member but 1st post. Hoping y'all can keep me from making a mistake.

I have a rare opportunity to purchase an AA Broadbill (I'm in Oregon and you don't see them around here). My concern is that there seems to be some separation at the bow (pic attached). It doesn't seem too bad, but I just don't know if it's the start of something significant. I have no experience with fiberglass repair and don't really have time to take on a major project. Is there anything else I should be on the lookout for with these? Current owner says it's was manufactured in 1985 and it's all factory fiberglass - not from a kit.

Thank you!
Kelley20240208_150530.jpg20240208_150601.jpg20240208_143150.jpg
 
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That is a factory unit and not a kit boat. Were it a kit you'd see wood framework throughout the the interior and the hull would be glass over plywood. The factory models were three pieces if I remember correctly, the hull, the floor, and the deck. It looks like you are in fact getting separation between the hull and deck. I can see some upward curve at the nose and that isn't they way they were built. I can't remember if there is a compartment at the nose or if you can look from the inside all the way to the nose. Either way the repair should be straightforward. Remove all the chips and damaged glass/gelcoat and sand it clean. Then wet the mating surfaces with straight epoxy and use thickened epoxy between the halves, clamped to hold in place until cured, and glass over the top to tie them together. That is not a hard repair. If you don't want to tackle it then any fiberglass boat shop can make that repair. Not a showstopper, but it would positively effect my offer.
 
Eric Patterson said:
That is a factory unit and not a kit boat. Were it a kit you'd see wood framework throughout the the interior and the hull would be glass over plywood. The factory models were three pieces if I remember correctly, the hull, the floor, and the deck. It looks like you are in fact getting separation between the hull and deck. I can see some upward curve at the nose and that isn't they way they were built. I can't remember if there is a compartment at the nose or if you can look from the inside all the way to the nose. Either way the repair should be straightforward. Remove all the chips and damaged glass/gelcoat and sand it clean. Then wet the mating surfaces with straight epoxy and use thickened epoxy between the halves, clamped to hold in place until cured, and glass over the top to tie them together. That is not a hard repair. If you don't want to tackle it then any fiberglass boat shop can make that repair. Not a showstopper, but it would positively effect my offer.
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Thank you! Really helpful info and I appreciate it. That sounds like a pretty simple repair and not something I'd take to a shop.
 
Broad bill build techniques were similar to my A.A. blackjack. Originally top cap was pop riveted to hull flange. There was no sealer in between my 2 half's as new . Guessing the rivets may have pulled thru on yours to open up like that. They're hidden by rubber molding around perimeter of hull if that hasn't been changed in previous repairs. . When I redid mine I used stainless steel screw replacing rivets with a bead of 5200 around perimeter edge to seal. Just around edge, not between sections so it could still be separated if needed. Flotation bxs in rear corners can get water in them thru seam leakage. They're glassed over plywood as well as floor is glassed over plywood. Either can rot from inside if water gets in there.
 
roy brewington said:
Broad bill build techniques were similar to my A.A. blackjack. Originally top cap was pop riveted to hull flange. There was no sealer in between my 2 half's as new . Guessing the rivets may have pulled thru on yours to open up like that. They're hidden by rubber molding around perimeter of hull if that hasn't been changed in previous repairs. . When I redid mine I used stainless steel screw replacing rivets with a bead of 5200 around perimeter edge to seal. Just around edge, not between sections so it could still be separated if needed. Flotation bxs in rear corners can get water in them thru seam leakage. They're glassed over plywood as well as floor is glassed over plywood. Either can rot from inside if water gets in there.
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Very helpful! Thank you
 
Just my two cents, but, I'd tackle that repair with the boat flipped on horses. Gravity will help you with the angle of that repair.
Nice boat, good luck.
 
Probably right...the two halves were riveted AND screwed into a cedar strip backer to join the two halves.
I have a 1983 and the bow does get a little "sag" over time but it shouldn't enough to pull out the rivets unless someone was walking on it regularly. I would drill out and replace any rivets that are clearly broken and try to determine if the screws are still into something solid as this space is impossible to get to from inside the boat. If it is solid I would flip it over, clean out any old 5200 that is in the "crease" and fill it back in with 5200. Avoid walking on the enclosed bow or better yet I plan on reinforcing mine with a piece of cedar and using it to mount a spotlight and some cleats.
 
Chip

If the two halves of the boat each have a good lip, then I agree with Roy that 5200 should work well. Don't clamp it so tight that you squeeze it all out. There needs to be a gap for the 5200 to work properly. If the lip is not useable you can epoxy tape the two halves together. If you run into problems post some pictures and we'll go from there.
 
I really appreciate all of the info - extremely helpful in making an informed decision. Ultimately, we couldn't agree on the $$ or the signigance of the repair. I may regret it later, but decided to pass. The cedar strip on the inside was brittle and I thought needed to be completely replaced for a proper repair. Seller figured a couple of screws and some 5200 was good enough....The search continues.
 
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