AA broadbill

John, Very nice choice, really enjoy mine. Looks like factory built is it? The snaps go around the cockpit coaming? if so they're for cheesy scissor factory blind. I would reccomend going with Dodger style custom made. Also, gas tank forward, a good a switch panel for Nav lights, rope lights under deck, reposition cleates beside cockpit for anchoring. And this paint job will have traction added to front deck to give dog grip. Bilge pump is a must. I've used grass mats for camo but switching to synth. raffia stuff spray bombed w/ matte camo colors. Mine is in half right in decoy barn, now due to transom rotted out between glass. Hopefully next week get back on track to glass new one in and reassemble going to post up some photos for site as I get back to it. How far in sw ohio are you?

Gene R.
 
HI John
You'll be amazed at how stable the broadbill is. If itis a factory boat do yourself a favor and flip it
over and seal the seam between the top and bottom at the rub rail. Mine leaked there and the
boat got real HEAVY. I'm thinking of selling mine but if I don't I'm going to put a door system to
compliment the dodger. Enjoy John
 
Gene I am about 1 to 11/2 hrs south of Columbus. Planning on rewiring like you are. Got a 15 with her. I have a 25 but figure a 20 would be about the best, but I just got it home and havent had it on the lake. It is a factory boat. Made a 20 hour round trip to get it. Got any pics of your dodger? Thanks John
 
John, Put the 25 on her and never look back. I have run one on mine for about ten years and it will run almost 30 under ideal conditions. I did try a 35 but long story short it fell off:-(. I really like my Broadbill except for the poor internal drainage but I think I have that one figured out, hope to try it out very soon. Have fun and be safe.
 
Gene I am about 1 to 11/2 hrs south of Columbus. Planning on rewiring like you are. Got a 15 with her. I have a 25 but figure a 20 would be about the best, but I just got it home and havent had it on the lake. It is a factory boat. Made a 20 hour round trip to get it. Got any pics of your dodger? Thanks John
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John, was that the bb in SC on craigs list? 15hp 2stroke merc is what I run but if I had a 2 stk 20 or 25 thats what I'd run .BIG FUN!
Aug is right about the sealing of the top and bottom that is what caused my transom to rot it just wicked the water down in there. Though I'm not sure about how it his gained wieght. I'm guessing from foam absorbing water? My foam hasn't and is attached (fiberglassed to underside of deck fore and aft). Under my deck it drains to rear with no problem and floor is open for bilge pump at transom. The dodger is off that I made for last season, making changes with Hardware I got from Dave Clark @ westlake. As for wiring I redid mine two years ago paying attention to detail and thought it out best I could. So far it's held up. When I get back to working on it post some pics.

Gene R
 
Gene,
I could actually hear the water sloshing around in the boat when it was on the trailer!!
John
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Yours doesn't drain out under floor to transom drain plug? I put a garden hose under floor in front and washout empty shells,sand,mud and most importantly Raspberry danish wrappers. That can't be good having water trapped under floor. I think I'd cut out floor and correct engineering flaw then re glass back in.

Gene
 
Hey guys that is what I just did to mine. I cut and glued pink insulation foam into the floor between the frames, coated them with adhesive and then painted. That drainage problem is the one thing I really hate about mine. I hope I got it fixed. I'll try to post some pics or answer any questions.
 
Gene thats where I got it. Long drive.Look forward to some of these pics of deck rebuilds. I might have to tear into this one. Any pics or help is appreciated. Got to get it ready for this season. Should be able to take it out next week when I get title and tags done. John
 
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Hey guys that is what I just did to mine. I cut and glued pink insulation foam into the floor between the frames, coated them with adhesive and then painted. That drainage problem is the one thing I really hate about mine. I hope I got it fixed. I'll try to post some pics or answer any questions.
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If your boat has frames it's not a factory Arthur Armstrong Boat; it's a wooden boat built from plans. The old factory boats have a full fiberglass floor, filled with foam underneath to provide floatation and support for the floor itself. There is a small bilge area at the stern where the drain plug is.
 
Dewayne is right. I was trying to understand the drainage problems you all are talking about.
My boat is totally sealed with foam encapsulated in the floor with only a small bilge area at the
very rear of the boat. I'll bet the total capacity of the bilge is less than 5 gallons. There is NO
area to rinse out. Mine is a North Carolina boat so they may have changed the design after they
were sold and relocated. John
 
My boat must be a factory boat. The floor is solid fiberglass. So is it solid foam between the hull and floor? My boat has a name plate/ rating plate,and the little well for the drain. Would the piece of aluminuim on the transom be original or added? Thanks for all the information,it will help when I start the redo. John
 
John, just went to decoy/boat barn to check mine and.... Its glassed 3/4" plywood floor with a 3/4 ply glassed strip straight up the keel the lenght of the floor from the well @ transom. NO foam at all or other supports between floor and hull. forgot to see if alum piece for motor at transom. I don't think so,though. The seam for the top half and bottom half of boat at transom is the achilles heel of the boat. Before you get all hell bent doing other things make sure it's not rotted. I'll get somephotos tomorrow (and i'll email them to ya) after I clean up barn. It's way to embarrassingly a wreck. I've been slacking.


Gene R.
 
My boat must be a factory boat. The floor is solid fiberglass. So is it solid foam between the hull and floor? My boat has a name plate/ rating plate,and the little well for the drain. Would the piece of aluminuim on the transom be original or added? Thanks for all the information,it will help when I start the redo. John
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There should be a serial # molded into the transom of the boat as I recall to one side or the other of the motor mount. I don't recall thare being any aluminum on the motor mount originally. The void between the outer hull and the floor should be full of foam.
 
Yes John, There is a aluminum plate that protects the top from the motor and where the
clamps tighten to hold it secure. Make sure you bolt the motor down I almost lost mine once!!
John
 
The serial number is on the transom. It is a factory boat. Any leakage problems with these?Everything feels tight one spot on the floor little spongy. Aluminium is just where the motor tightens on the transom. Thanks John
 
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