?? about cedar decoy repair

Huntindave McCann

Huntindave McCann

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Hi guys,

I have come into possession of a solid cedar decoy which has a crack I'd like to repair. The bottom surface of the decoy is bare wood. I assume the entire decoy has never been "sealed" with only the upper surfaces being painted. This is a used decoy and I'm not sure if the cracking is from initial drying of the block or from repeated exposure to water and subsequent drying.

crack001.jpg


crack002.jpg



I'd like to do something to repair this and prevent further cracking.

My thoughts were to:

(1) remove the keel
(2) plane the bottom flat
(3) run a dado cut thru the length of the crack
(3) glue in an insert in the dado cut
(4) trim the insert flush with the body as needed
(5) seal the bottom and touch up the paint where required


My question to you guys is, Will my repair procedure work? other options? I am open to suggestions.
 
Well,

First thing you have to do is SHOW US THE REST OF THE DECOY......! Come on Dave.
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My thoughts exactly...NO BODY HELP DAVE!!! at least until he shows us a picture of the other side.
 
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What a couple of wise-arses!! You don't need to see the top side, the friggen crack is on the bottom!! Besides, it's a used decoy I bought, it's not like I can carve or anything. sheeeeesh

crack003.jpg



OK, Ya happy now?

BTW. I don't know what carver the "Circle K" logo belongs to and I'd appreciate knowing if anybody can help along that line as well.
 
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Much better!

You know you'll ruin any possible collectors value it may ever have, right???

Okay boys, go ahead and help...


































I think your method is sound, you might want to use epoxy rather than 'glue'

Good luck!
Chuck
 
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Chuck,

I hear you on collector value but I doubt that it is an issue with this decoy. Course if you'd like to make me an offer on this very scarce and highly sought after decoy,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,
 
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BTW. I don't know what carver the "Circle K" logo belongs to and I'd appreciate knowing if anybody can help along that line as well.
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I was wondering about you planning off the bottom, obviously to make it easier to get a straight dato. What if you secured a small piece (1 foot by 2 foot) of 3/4 inch plywood to the bottom, with some door shims and 4 drywall screws per side, then dato through the plywood and to the depth you want into the decoy. The edge of the ply could, if you position it properly, ride the rip fence to keep it straight, plus you would preserve whatever shape the bottom has, and the "Circle K" brand.

Just a thought...I am actually trying to help now.

Chuck
 
Chuck,

I hear you on collector value but I doubt that it is an issue with this decoy. Course if you'd like to make me an offer on this very scarce and highly sought after decoy,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,
Click to expand...


I'll trade you for a canvas goose...some assembly required...

canvasgoose005.jpg

 
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I was wondering about you planning off the bottom, obviously to make it easier to get a straight dato. What if you secured a small piece (1 foot by 2 foot) of 3/4 inch plywood to the bottom, with some door shims and 4 drywall screws per side, then dato through the plywood and to the depth you want into the decoy. The edge of the ply could, if you position it properly, ride the rip fence to keep it straight, plus you would preserve whatever shape the bottom has, and the "Circle K" brand.
Click to expand...
Chuck

I figured I'd need a guide board but hadn't thought to use shims to keep everything flat and level. I just didn't want the whole thing flying off the table saw when it moved and grabbed the blade.


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Dave, that decoy has a lot of hunt left in it. I have seen new decoys from the Jobes with bigger cracks. If you are dead set on repair, i would remove the keel and "back saw the cut. Also cross cut a small notch at crack edges, to deter further cracking. If you don't cut the groove deeper, the wood will still be stressed. After back sawing, fill crack with shims and then fill crack in with epoxy or bondo, and repaint.

When birds are cracked extremely deep, break decoy down stress line into two halves and epoxy together, then fill exposed crack as listed above.

Hope this helps.
 
Nope......can't see how dado-ing a strip in the bottom will help a crack up to the tail and neck. Drill a hole at the top of each end of the crack and glue a dowel in it.Then, make a couple Bow Tie inserts on the bottom and glue them in..one front and one back. Make them a 1/4" thick or so out of oak. Then put filler or penut butter epoxy into the crack.
 
Lee

The dado cut would be the full depth of the crack,essentially removing the cracked portion and replacing it with a filler piece.
 
Keep it simple stupid. Take the keel off. Thin your epox. I always thin it with alcohol before I mix the two parts together. Pour it in the crack, call it good. When It comes apart in twenty five years you won't care, if it does.

The other methods are good but unless you have an emotional attachment or just want to try one of the methods of fixing the crack, keep it simple.

If its $1500 decoy I like Harkers method.( : )
 
Circle K hmmm. Maybe a youth adjunct to the Kiwanis Club ?
Merry Christmas,

Harry

PS Perhaps a Will Kite out of the Currituck Region of NC. If so,it would be too valuable to patch up.
 
It appears to me that the decoy is carved out of heartwood, and seeing as how it is solid, no amount of glue or epoxy will stop the crack. Eventually I think it will work loose no matter what you use. I carve out of heartwood myself, but have found that it has to be hollow in order to stabilize the wood enough for it not to continue cracking. I'd varnish up the inside of the crack and keep hunting it how it is.
 
Drilling and gluing a dowel in is an old farts trick to stop wood from splitting. I would almost bet if you tried to dado that deep, the wood would split, maybe violently. I'd use at least a half inch and a 3/4" would be better.
 
Dave

I'd minimize intrusion. I'd work slightly thickened epoxy in the crack until the void was no longer. I'd tape the ends with masking tape to keep the epoxy off the paint. I might put a thin coat of straight epoxy on the entire bottom for good measure. If that doesn't work then you could get more agressive with the tablesaw. All of the above advice applies only if the decoy doesn't carry any real collectible value. If it does shelf it and forget about the repair.
 


BTW. I don't know what carver the "Circle K" logo belongs to and I'd appreciate knowing if anybody can help along that line as well.[/QUOTE]

I think the circle K is Paul Kafferman ,I think a Michigan carver I bought one of his blocks from Bob Hayden, Bob would know for sure.
Kelly
 
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