Adding side planks

[Richard Lathrop]

Richard Lathrop submitted a new resource:

Adding side planks - Planking Widgeon

After setting up the molds, the transom and the bow piece it is time to add the side planks. The plans call for using 3/4" by 8" wide by 12' long planks. My first attempt was to try to use Western Red Cedar boards from Lowes. At 7" wide they were too narrow to fit successfully. I contacted a few local sawmills that advertised cypress planks but they were out of stock.

What I wound up doing was buying 2- 2x10x12 boards in the clearest close to quartersawn as I could. I then planed the...

Read more about this resource...

 

[Richard Lathrop]

Steve asked about using a Spanish windlass to pull the planks together at the bow. I did try to use a windlass but I think you are limited on where to place the windlass. If you look at the photos when I tried to use a windlass I had placed a block on the cedar planks to keep the rope from sliding forward when winding . If you look at the drawing of the bow piece you can't extend the planks beyond the bow due to the mortise of the planks to the bow. With station 11 installed you only have the space between station 11 and the bow to place the windless. That means the winding stick has to be short which doesn't give you much leverage to twist the rope.

I found it easier to clamp the planks to the bow, spring the planks around the midsection then spring to transom.

Rick

 

[Eric Patterson]

Woo Hooo, we have our first review in the Resources section. Thank you @Steve Sanford.

 

[Steve Sanford]

Steve asked about using a Spanish windlass to pull the planks together at the bow. I did try to use a windlass but I think you are limited on where to place the windlass. If you look at the photos when I tried to use a windlass I had placed a block on the cedar planks to keep the rope from sliding forward when winding . If you look at the drawing of the bow piece you can't extend the planks beyond the bow due to the mortise of the planks to the bow. With station 11 installed you only have the space between station 11 and the bow to place the windless. That means the winding stick has to be short which doesn't give you much leverage to twist the rope.

I found it easier to clamp the planks to the bow, spring the planks around the midsection then spring to transom.

Rick
View attachment 61085

Rick~

Understood. I have always seen the windlass used to pull sides into the transom (stern). I did it on my first boat - which had a nose similar to yours - and had to clamp blocks on (no deck screws and cordless drills back then....) to keep the line from slipping.

One other question: Why Dolphinite and not 3M 5200? My experience with the former is that it is seam compound - which by design never hardens. Your thoughts?

All the best!

SJS

 

[Richard Lathrop]

Rick~

Understood. I have always seen the windlass used to pull sides into the transom (stern). I did it on my first boat - which had a nose similar to yours - and had to clamp blocks on (no deck screws and cordless drills back then....) to keep the line from slipping.

One other question: Why Dolphinite and not 3M 5200? My experience with the former is that it is seam compound - which by design never hardens. Your thoughts?

All the best!

SJS

Steve,

I have a can of Dolphonite on hand. I used it when building my garvey and had it available. I have not used 3M 5200 but I understand it is a permanent attachment when using 5200.

Dolphonite does harden it takes awhile though.

Rick Lathrop