Advice on sneakbox - AA Broadbill or MLB Wigeon

Scott Gilliland said:
I've not been on the forum much lately, but I have been picking away at the boat. Fiddley thinks. I'm on the inside of the hull now and have taped in all the plywood scarf joints. I've run fillets along all the chine logs (I think that's what they are called), along each of the stringers and across the transom. I just finished coating the inside of the hull with epoxy. I think I've used almost a gallon of wood flour and 1 and half gallons of epoxy. Lots of sanding too.View attachment 64625

Floor is next. I've made 7 supports for the floor. There is one at each of the old frame locations plus an extra in between each frame station. I think I will add one more at the back of the boat allow the floor to be supported back bear the splash well.

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Next is to add the floor and the knee braces. I've changed how these get connected. Originally they were going to be attached to bottom of the hull. and the floor let in around them. But not I plan to install the floor then connect the braces to the floor support though the floor. Something this.
View attachment 64628

Once this is done and the new transom glassed in I'll be ready to paint the topsides. I'm going to use Wearlander Topsides drab olive paint for the top. My goal now is to have it ready for ice out in April.
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Scott Gilliland said:
I have most of the frames installed and this week I hope to install the floor. I'm not sure how to attach the floor to the frames. The only thing I can think of it to coat the top of the frames with thickened epoxy and screw it down. But I will be unable to form any fillets between the bottom of the flor and the frames. Is there a trick to this? Thanks
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Clever idea with the knees! Should eliminate alot of hand fitting! Richard
 
RM Anderson said:
Clever idea with the knees! Should eliminate alot of hand fitting! Richard
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The knees we originally going to attach to the bottom of the hull just be side the frames on the floor. I had no idea how I was going let in the knees into the floor. Eric had mentioned that it could be constructed like a torsion box which would be very strong. That gave me the idea to mount knees on top of the floor and align them on top the frames. I think it will be strong and a lot easier to install the floor.
 
ChadW said:
We did this last summer. Heavy bead of thickened epoxy on top of the frames and around the entire perimeter of the floor. Prior to glue-up, everything was dry fit and pre marked. We weighed the floor down with concrete pavers. No screw were used anywhere.

Once the layup cure we filleted the entire perimeter and then layered tape.
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I just dry fitter the floor. I was planning the screw the floor to the frames. I don't really like the idea of screwing into the end grain of the plywood, but I was thinking that the floor may need some persuasion because the floor will be slightly curved. I like the idea of using weights, but still think it could use some screws. Is there a reason not to screw the floor?

Thanks
Scott
 
Scott Gilliland said:
I just dry fitter the floor. I was planning the screw the floor to the frames. I don't really like the idea of screwing into the end grain of the plywood, but I was thinking that the floor may need some persuasion because the floor will be slightly curved. I like the idea of using weights, but still think it could use some screws. Is there a reason not to screw the floor?

Thanks
Scott
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Might want to consider if you'll get water infiltration into floor at screw holes . Sealing after screwing should help.
 
I starting to think about accessories. I'm looking through Steve Sanford's Seakbox Renovation thread and will use a similar setup to secure my push pole. I'm also looking at how he mounted the oar locks. I'm not sure where to mount them or how high they should be. Roy suggested they should be just aft of midship, but I'm wondering if the how close to the gunnel they should be mounted and how high they should be. I'm thinking I should sit in the bit and mock it up to see what feels right. But are there some general rules for mounting them?

Scott
 
Scott

I'm not a fan of screws into the edge of plywood either. I see it all the time in cabinetry and have practiced it a few times in my shop but have seen the screws strip out or the plywood split. One means of dealing with that is to drill say a 3/4" hole through the plywood and epoxy a dowel in. Then sink the screw into the dowel resulting in no threads to end grain. You could always run a test of some screws into scrap ply edge and see what happens.
 
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Another question. I'm copying Steve Sanford's use of pvc trim boards for the rail that holds the bottom of the spray dodger. I'm wondering if I ripped it down to 1/2" if pvc trim boards could be used for grassing rails. I was thinking about using webbing, but I like the look of the rails better. Any thoughts?
 
Scott Gilliland said:
Another question. I'm copying Steve Sanford's use of pvc trim boards for the rail that holds the bottom of the spray dodger. I'm wondering if I ripped it down to 1/2" if pvc trim boards could be used for grassing rails. I was thinking about using webbing, but I like the look of the rails better. Any thoughts?
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Scott

I've not used it but am not sure it is strong enough. Imagine a hunting partner stepping on the pvc in between posts. Would it snap? Trust me, if your partners are like mine, they will step anywhere without a care.
 
Scott Gilliland said:
I starting to think about accessories. I'm looking through Steve Sanford's Seakbox Renovation thread and will use a similar setup to secure my push pole. I'm also looking at how he mounted the oar locks. I'm not sure where to mount them or how high they should be. Roy suggested they should be just aft of midship, but I'm wondering if the how close to the gunnel they should be mounted and how high they should be. I'm thinking I should sit in the bit and mock it up to see what feels right. But are there some general rules for mounting them?

Scott
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Thats all dependent on how high your seated in hull as you need room to clear combings of course but also your calf's and be at a comfortable height to use. Figure out your seating arrangement than with oars in hand see if there's any clearance issues with combings ,etc. I'm sure your aware of the fold down oar locks seen on some older duck boats, sneak box's. If it was me i would wait till you can float hull and then address oar lock position, design.
 
roy brewington said:
Thats all dependent on how high your seated in hull as you need room to clear combings of course but also your calf's and be at a comfortable height to use. Figure out your seating arrangement than with oars in hand see if there's any clearance issues with combings ,etc. I'm sure your aware of the fold down oar locks seen on some older duck boats, sneak box's. If it was me i would wait till you can float hull and then address oar lock position, design.
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good advice.
Thanks
 
Eric Patterson said:
Scott

I've not used it but am not sure it is strong enough. Imagine a hunting partner stepping on the pvc in between posts. Would it snap? Trust me, if your partners are like mine, they will step anywhere without a care.
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I was thinking the same. I'll have a cut off from the rail and I'll try a mock up and a test. I'm just not sure where to source wood of the quality I'd need locally - a 12' length of 3/4 x 1 1/2 PVC was $17 and seemed very convenient.

Cheers
 
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