Aging ducks

Bob B

Bob B

Well-known member
Was getting ready to do some cooking and looked around for some ideas and found this....

Any thoughts on Aging your birds?

I am sure some find this thought horrifying but I am not one of them.

But I have eaten a Merganzer as well as a raccoon.


http://www.wildeats.com/journal/?p=17

Never put up a bird this long but am trying it out now. If I live I will let you know.
 
Neat read Bob,

I can attest that aging ducks does make a difference. It does take quite a bit more work, but if you are after "the best" for the dinner table, then well worth the effort in my opinion.

Here is a neat study from U of Minnesota.

Best,
Steve
Optimal Conditions of Cooler Aging for Beef
Summary​
Steaks from longissimus muscle were stored at 30° F and 38° F for one, two, three, eight and 15 days postmortem to identify time/temperature combinations providing optimum tenderization. After completion of each treatment, steaks were sampled for myofibrillar protein degradation using gel electrophoresis and Warner-Bratzler shear force. Steaks aged at 38° F tended to have lower shear force values (greater tenderness) and shorter storage times than those stored at 30° F. Gel electrophoresis confirmed these results: samples stored at 38° F had considerable protein degradation in eight days, comparable to steaks aged at 30° F for 15 days.
Introduction​
Biology of meat tenderness is quite complex, with many factors influencing the final product. One factor affecting tenderness is extent of proteolysis, or breakdown, of muscle proteins. As meat ages, proteolysis is enhanced. Larger protein components of meat break down into smaller fragments and as this process continues, the meat becomes more tender. Another factor is temperature, which has a profound effect on the time course of aging, and may also influence the extent of tenderization. It is well known beef improves in tenderness when stored in coolers, with optimal aging occurring in the first 11 days. What is not known, however, is the optimal aging time at a given cooler temperature. Many purveyors now extend aging periods prior to selling beef to upscale restaurants. Extended storage of meat at or near freezing temperatures, however, may not accomplish the desired effect and is not always feasible. It is possible a shorter storage at a slightly higher temperature would accomplish the same results for less time and money. The relationship of storage temperature and aging times to beef tenderness and palatability is needed to make general recommendations to those who age beef.
Procedure​
Ten pairs of loins were used for all aging time-storage temperature combinations. The loins were stored using two cooler temperatures (30° F and 38° F) and five aging times (one, two, three, eight and 15 days postmortem). After each treatment, steaks were cut and 10-gram samples were collected from each steak for gel electrophoresis. The steaks were then vacuum-packaged and frozen at -68° F for Warner-Bratzler shear force determination at a later time. A zero-time sample was also collected on the day of slaughter to provide a baseline for electrophoretic gels.
After controlled thawing, steaks (1 inch thick) were broiled to an internal temperature of 158° F and allowed to cool. Cores (n = 8-10; 0.5 in diameter) were taken parallel to fiber directions and sheared for determination of tenderness as measured by shear force using the Instron Universal Testing machine.
Myofibrils used for electrophoresis were isolated from raw muscle samples by differential gradient centrifugation. Electrophoresis identified protein fragments with different molecular weights. Molecular weight standards (BioRad, broad range) were used to identify molecular weights of the protein bands.
Results​
Warner-Bratzler tests suggest steaks stored at 38° F tend to have lower shear forces at a shorter storage time than those stored at 30° F (Figure 1). Although not significant (P > .05), this trend is consistent with current theories of aging. The shear force test is subject to a great deal of variation. We postulate greater numbers of samples would maintain this trend, increasing the level of significance.
Although the relationship between shear force and aging time is not linear, it does follow a curve (P < .01). It is interesting to note values obtained for steaks aged at 30° F for 15 days are similar to steaks aged at 38° F for 11-12 days. Reducing aging by three days would lead to significant annual savings.
The results from both Warner-Bratzler and electrophoresis suggest aging occurs at a faster rate in steaks stored at 38° F and suggest beef can be stored for a shorter period of time at a higher temperature to obtain the desired tenderness. Such an aging period would translate into considerable savings in time and money for purveyors. Further study is needed to determine palatability, microbial growth and the specific biochemical processes occurring during different time and temperature combinations. Also, other retail cuts of beef must be tested using the same procedures to refine the relationship between storage temperature and aging.
__________________________________________________
Beef is aged to obtain the optimum in flavor and tenderness. Although opinion varies on the proper length of aging, the best beef is aged to about 10 -14 days.​
 
Bob,

I haven't done it this way before but I'm going to try it this year, it just makes sense. For the last 10 years I have gone back to the old days of 'hanging' birds and have noticed a better piece of meat when done. Typically I don't clean my birds for 3-4 days but place them on their backs either out in the garage if it's cold enough or in the frig if it's too warm outside. The meat comes out less 'gamey' if you will and also more tender.

As that web site suggests, getting the blood out of the meat is one of the keys to a good meal. Laying my birds on their backs accomplishes that as well as helping the meat 'relax' . On top of that I will try the dry aged method he talked about.

For early season teal and woodies I don't think it matters as they are so good anyway. Late season divers, scoters, OS etc. are another kettle of fish altogether and may be helped a lot.

I've eaten Merganzer and raccoon too and liked the Merg better :)
 
Makes sense to me, may give this a try this year. Just have to find a spot in the fridge to do it.
 
I have wanted to do this for some time and finally made some two weeks ago after I got back from Manitoba with a mess of geese.

The french dish of Confit.

Take legs and thighs cover with salt, fresh cracked pepper both sides. You can also add any fresh herbs that you like. I added rosemary and some thyme. Put in a large dish, cover and put in fridge for two days to dry marinade.

Take meat out and wash off salt and pat dry.
Place meat into large dutch oven.
Cover with olive oil so that all of the meat is submerged in oil. Place lid so dish is covered.
Turn oven onto 215F and place dutch oven. Allow to slow cook for 10 hours. At that time, the meat should fall right off the bone.
Debone meat into tupperware container.
Cover the meat with the oil. If there is any oil left over, save this to use for the next batch.
Place in fridge. This will keep for up to 3 months.

It is a bunch of work, but I have to tell you this is a very luxurious way to make duck or goose. I found a recipe on Epicurious.com for duck confit sauerkraut gratin, and it was an amazing dish. You can't believe how tender the meat will be and one of the most unique flavors!!

Best,
Steve
 
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Steve,

Thanks for the reminder, I've wanted to try that myself. I bet that method would be great for a tough old goose too.

Would you use Extra Virgin Olive Oil or just Pumice? I would imagine that a moderate EVOO would be about perfect.
 
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I've been aging birds for a couple years now. I picked this up from Pete and Lee after the UP trip. There is a noticeable difference.
 
Steve,

Thanks for the reminder, I've wanted to try that myself. I bet that method would be great for a tough old goose too.

Would you use Extra Virgin Olive Oil or just Pumice? I would imagine that a moderate EVOO would be about perfect. Pete, I used EVOO. Pricey, but worth it for all you are going to make. If you save your left over oil, then you can re-use it. The french recipes that I've looked at use duck fat. I didn't do that, but with left over EVOO you get the yum yums from what you made. I'll share with you a trick for the big ol' goose! Debreast the meat and place in a crock pot. Cover with beef stock, salt, ground cumin, ground coriander, fresh cracked pepper, couple cloves. Cook on low for ~8 hours. Pull the meat from the liquid, and shred. Then take Mexican style spices and mix in with the meat. I'll then make burritos out of it. It tastes just like roast beef! Best, Steve
Click to expand...
 
Yum-Yum. Wouldn't have thought of cumin with goose but it does make sense. I've used curry with duck too with good success.
 
I started aging my birds last year once it was late enough in the season and cold enough in the garage. I would hang them until the next weekend. It made a considerable difference. Especially with the scoters. I was planning on using an old refrigerator that I had for this year to have a more controlled environment but it up and died on me this summer. The first time I tried aging I did it with some scoters for a week and then the next weekend I had some fresh mallards to do a side by side comparison. I marinaded each in an Italian dressing for the same amount of time then cooked each of them up and I thought the scoter was better, less 'gamey'. I couldn't believe it. I kept double checking my steps to see if I mixed the two up but I don't believe I did.
 
Bob,
Thanks for posting the article...very informative. I hang my birds by the neck for as long as a week prior to cleaning and eating. I have at times let the birds hang for two weeks. The big factor for me is the temperature. It needs to be in the low 50's before I hang birds. An old frig would be a great idea as mentioned by others.

Some time ago I read an article about the english hanging ducks and geese until their necks began to separate before they were cleaned and eaten. I've tried that too, but will say it did not taste any better than the ducks that I let hang for a week.

The other reason I like to hang birds is so that I can delay the cleaning process when I come home from hunting.....the lazy factor.

Zane
 
Zane,

Good point. I've spoken to folks from England, and they have also told me about hanging ducks until the head separates. Probably part of their tradition. But, everything that I've read about aging meat; longer doesn't mean better. You reach a point in the curve and if you age longer that doesn't equate to a better product.

Best,
Steve
 
Good link Bob, aging is important to all meat. Dad just hauled three head of beef in to be butchered yesterday. They will be hanging refrigerated untill a week from Monday...about 11 days. Most meat from the supermarket recieves almost no aging...it's just a production line untill it is packaged, froze and on the next truck...that just isn't right, for any kind of meat much less anything 'gamey'.

Chuck
 
Chuck,
I have never had a burger or steak like the ones we used to get when I lived behind a farm as a kid. From Birth to the sound of the 22 long, that steer was never farther than a half mile from my house
We would go halves or quarters on a steer and my dad would meet up with the others so we could help wrap and pack the meat.
All this was done after a 14 day hang.
A butcher had a cooler and meat room for doing local beef.
All gone now. Nearest USDA plant is in NY across the Ma. border from my old home town and I dont think they can afford to hang a steer that long and take up the space in the walk in.

Let alone match the flavor enhancing stories that a 12 year old got to hear at an, after school and homework, packing session with the Elders.
 
It tried this last year and it created a tender, non gamey duck. I hate the gamey taste in ducks and geese but this method proved well. Put uncleaned mallards, breast up in the refrig for 12 - 14 days. You can do this as long as they are not gut shot. On 12th or 14th day I breasted and soaked in buttermilk overnight. Then just added some steak seasoning and grilled to rare but no more than medium rare. It had a non gamey flavor and was tender. Similar to beef in flavor but not quite. Did not have to soak in any marinades to mask the flavor or add any other seasoning other than a regular steak seasoning. Did not even need any steak sauce. Will be doing it again. Should make awesome fajitas.
 
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