Another Benelli M1 question

Mark W

Mark W

Well-known member
OK, so I've taken the M1 completely a part to clean well and to check for any broken parts. Went to take out the recoil spring and the retaining nut/end cap was locked n place. Heating, cooling and break free liquids did not get it apart. Took it back to the gunsmiths to see if they could get it loose. I was warned that they have had 4 1's already come in this year where everything was corroded so bad they couldn't get it apart and the whole assembly had to be replaced. Great was not the first word that came to mind. Anyway, he took it back to the shop and returned with the retaining nut loosened. Good deal. When I took out the retaining net, it was pretty corroded. Don't know how as I clean this thing religiously and can't even recall the last time I hunted in the rain. So I am going to order a new recoil spring and retaining nut from Brownells (and maybe a trigger assembly pin and a couple of D-Clips for good measure) and before I put it all back together want to know what I can put on the retaining screw threads from getting stuck again. I believe the gunsmith recommend butter barrel but there has to be something at home I can put on the threads. I don't think this retaining nut can come loose once the stock is on the gun.


What have others used?


Mark W
 
Mark,
Walmart or your local auto parts store will have some sort of anti seize product. Tube or can of a paste like substance which should take care of the problem. Apply liberally
 
Mark,
Walmart or your local auto parts store will have some sort of anti seize product. Tube or can of a paste like substance which should take care of the problem. Apply liberally
Click to expand...

Yeah, Duh. I didn't even think of this Dave and I believe I have a bottle of it at home already.

Thanks -

Mark W
 
I replaced my recoil spring on my SBE with a SS one years ago. Sure Cycle??? I have never had a problem it.
 
Last edited:
Good old automotive never seize works great. Also good choke tube lube. Avaiable at most auto parts stores. Those tubes rust in from mere condensation, no rain needed.
 
I replaced the springs in my SBE maybe 10 years ago (it's a '95 vintage) with SureCycle stainless steel springs. It appeared they weakened over time so I replaced them again with Wolff Springs for a fraction of the cost https://www.gunsprings.com/BENELLI/cID2/mID10/dID32.
 
I replaced the springs in my SBE maybe 10 years ago (it's a '95 vintage) with SureCycle stainless steel springs. It appeared they weakened over time so I replaced them again with Wolff Springs for a fraction of the cost https://www.gunsprings.com/BENELLI/cID2/mID10/dID32.
Click to expand...

I've read pro and con on the Sure Cycle product - those who hunt in very cold seem to think the springs are not strong enough. A Wolff spring is what I currently have in my gun. Planning to replace with the same.

I consider recoil springs to be a maintenance item and at $12, just replace verses cleaning them up.

Mark W
 
I consider recoil springs to be a maintenance item and at $12, just replace verses cleaning them up.

Mark W
Click to expand...

From the stories I hear, I was beginning to think you considered the whole gun a replacement item as in "just replace verses cleaning them up. " :>) :>)
 
I consider recoil springs to be a maintenance item and at $12, just replace verses cleaning them up.

Mark W
Click to expand...

From the stories I hear, I was beginning to think you considered the whole gun a replacement item as in "just replace verses cleaning them up. " :>) :>)
Click to expand...

Same gun for close to 20 years I would guess. Only shotgun I own unless you count the 870 I bought my son a few years back.

Mark W
 
Not to buck a trend but I'd recommend Loctite 242 on those threads. It should keep the rust out and prevent the nut from backing off. This is a blue removable thread locker not the red series, which are fairly permanent in small threads (under 3/4").

Scott
 
I think a big part of these springs and assemblies corroding is a guy comes home from a frigid day afield and puts the gun in a corner to sweat with the stock down, barrel up... Allowing all the sweat to go right back to the spring assembly. Try sweating the gun barrel down.
 
Mark
I replaced mine last year in a sbe2. The retaining nut is loctited on with one that is the more permanent one.
It took a lot of heat to break the bond. Also i used a finishing nail that i put in the small hole on the side of the tube, this way when you break the bond free it doesn't fly out at you, the nut is red hot. Be carefully if you place your reciever in a vise you can deform it. I used the blue loctite when I put it back together. The new spring was about 3" longer than the old one, the old one had to be fatigue, the bolt would not slam closed and it became a single shot.
 
Bought my M1, 8/23/94.

Had recoil spring issues after a lots of high brass lead, magnum lead (was still legal in Sask) and steel shot run through it. The gun was sent back to Benelli by the dealer, and the recoil spring replaced.

I was told the original was a spring installed for high volume dove hunting at the factory. A special order gun. The replacement and complete gun check was free of charge.

Since the replacement, no problems and I can tear down the gun ASAP whenever needed. I have considered the SS replacement, but no reason to as of yet.

After EVERY hunt I dry the gun and then place it barrel down (as you were already advised) in a warm room and safe place.

The synthetic stock CREATES AND HOLDS LOTS OF CONDENSATION. I have considered getting a wooden stock.

Heavy rain, it gets the full tear down (it does not take me very long), and while hunting I try to keep the bolt side down, to keep rain out.

The ONLY oil I use is Cleanzoil. It works wonders on the recoil spring and on all my guns. A little goes a long way.

It's a decent duck gun, but a even better Pheasant & Prairie Grouse gun.

Unless it's scope mounts, I would never use loctite (personal preference).

My experience in minus cold. The M1 cycles much slower than a good old Remington 1100 Magnum that is kept clean.

just my 2 cents
 
Get a surecycle and never have to worry about it again. I've had sure cycles in benellis and berettas for 15 years now. Awesome product.
 
I use marine axel grease on all the nuts. Use the same on the chokes. Grease the whole choke body, not just the threads. This will stop stuck chokes.
Never-seze is great, but the cost of the tyvex suit gets expensive.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top