Another South Bay restoration - from a bare hull.

[Steve Sanford]

Good morning, All~


I'm not certain how many South Bay Duckboats I have restored and customized in recent years. I have one in the shop right now - and just delivered this one last weekend.






I first saw it half-full of water and with no cockpit cover. All the wooden parts were either gone or rotted to the punky stage.







The vessel itself was sound - and had been built in 1989. The flap boards and mounting blocks were destined for the stove....







The first job was installing a transom drain - which South Bays never had, in my experience - and a new motorboard.






I also molded a new "XL" spray shield - which I developed and made a mold for.






The spray shield gets 2 laminated (Mahogany + epoxy) thatch rails.






You can also see a new set of floorboards on the left. I am making another set for the current South Bay. I cut the shape with a skilsaw - because the long fair curve is gentle enough. I get a much smoother cut than I would with a sabre saw or band saw.






Although I have put scuppers in all of the floorboards I have made or restored, I always cut the hole with a sabre saw. To get a truer circle, I made this jig so I could use a hole saw (3.5"). I made the jig from 3 layers of the same 1/2-inch plywood as the floorboards.







The floorboards get sealed with epoxy - 2 coats on the top before painting.






Here is the scupper formed by the paired semi-circles - to allow for a bilge pump should seas - or rain/snow - come aboard.






More to follow.


SJS

 

[Steve Sanford]

Here are some more tasks....


The bottom had just a few nicks and gouges. First step was a washing with TSP.







All problems were filled and faired. rivet at bow got sanded flush.







A waterline was drawn and masked.






The bottom itself did not need new paint - but the topsides did.






It got 2 coats of Parker Marsh Grass - brushed on.






Here she is beneath the spoon bow.






And the after end.....







The bow now safe for gloves - or bare hands.






More to come....


SJS

 

[Steve Sanford]

The hulls on South Bays are known for oil-canning - they were a bit underframed. Because the original floorboards were screwed in place, the frames were perforated and weakened.




Note the cracks and holes in the existing frames.




So, I reinforced the existing frames - with 1708 biaxial with mat set in epoxy. I added a fillet of thickened epoxy next to each frame so the 'glass would lay over gentle curves.






I added 2 intermediate frames - using PVC lumber shaped to a trapezoidal cross-section. I used the paint cans for dead weight - because I do not have the supply of lead billets every boatshop should have for such purposes. I tapee all edges to "work clean" so after-cure grinding was minimized.







All cured, faired and ready for paint.







The new floorboards are shaped to follow the lines of the chines - and are coated with 2 sealing coats of straight epoxy.






The slots key into turn buttons - so the boards can be held in place and removed without tools. The surface is treated to fine sand for anti-skid.







Ready for second coat of Parker's Marsh Grass.






Next a brief detour....


SJS

 

[Steve Sanford]

The original cockpit cover succumbed to a "highway mishap"....


So, I molded a new one. Here it is fresh out of the mold and trimmed.







After priming, the interior gets a coat of gloss grey - Pettit Seattle Grey.






I am now using webbing - instead of wood - for handles.






The spray shield has its thatch rails fastened with brass machine screws.







I use a disc sander to grind them smooth inside.






The lip is set in 3M 5200 and fastened with flathead self-tappers through finishing washers.






Next job is thatch rails - a total of 6 on the decks. The 6-inch cleats on both bow and stern reinforced below to allow lifting the entire vessel with them. The eye on this aft rail is for a safety chain to the outboard.







The lateral rails are fastened with s/s flathead screws and 3M 5200.






Next - flap boards.


SJS

 

[Steve Sanford]

The mounting blocks for the flap boards require careful design and installation. They are designed top stand upright so the bottoms - and the corresponding backer boards - are beveled on the table saw. They are Mahogany sealed in epoxy.







They are held by a single s/s machine screw AND 3M 5200 (which does most of the work once cured. They need to be carefully aligned with a straightedge during installation so the hinges will not bind.







The half-inch plywood boards are fastened with brass machine screws - which are ground smooth.






I prefer to replace hinge pins with brass rod -bent into a hairpin shape for easy removal - but these 1/4-inch pins did not lend themselves to my manipulations. So - at least for the meantime - I applied a marine grease to these steel pins. At least the hinges themselves are solid brass.






This little bumper protects the coaming and cockpit cover from chafe.







The open boards lay flat - level with the water's surface - so stool get be set on them when rigging.






The boards can be closed at 2 different angles. Here they are in the lower position - with no chocking.






Here they are more upright - note the PVC chock secured to the coaming.






The chocks hang at-the-ready when not in use.






More to come!


SJS

 

[Steve Sanford]

I made a pair of shelves - each with shell holders on its outer lip.



A folding and padded seat was also needed.






It stays upright via these "knees" on the back.






It is not attached to the floorboards -







- and can be folded and moved out of the way as needed.






Another added feature was a gun rest - just 2 PVC chocks and a length of closet pole. Without one, another South Bay owner conceded that he rested his barrel on his boots whilst awaiting fowl......







A short shock cord is stored along the flap board when not needed.







It secures the flaps over the cockpit cover - when trailering or stored.






Ready for the road!






All the best,


SJS

 

[David K]

Steve,

Amazing restoration! To clarify, are you coating the grass rails with epoxy prior to painting?

 

[Steve Sanford]

David~


Thanks for the kind words!


I used to seal thatch rails with epoxy - but now use Spar Varnish instead. Epoxy demands just too much prep before painting - whereas the varnish is a long-proven sealer beneath oil paints. With either product, though, I first use a scraper to remove the runs et cetera before sanding. I wipe down with alcohol to remove the dust before painting.


Make sense?


SJS

 

[Capt Rich Geminski]

Steve, always great to see you work. Think anyone that owns a southbay is getting good ideas. Keep up the great photos.

 

[bob welsh]

its all in the details, chair is great

 

[don novicki]

Beautiful work. I build my own layout boats, but this is next level. Oh that I had your skills, esp with glass........

 

[Brad Bortner]

really nice work Steve. Great to see your craftsmanship and attention to detail.

 

[Eric Patterson]

Steve

You make the process seem so attractive and inviting I regret not bidding on that South Bay in Knoxville a couple weeks ago. By the way, it sold for $470, and the Van Duyne BBSB went for a mere $230.

It is always a treat to see your restorations and have no doubt they inspire duck hunters everywhere with their own boat projects. Thank you for sharing.

Eric