Another technique for fiberglassing....one you may have never heard of..

Eric Dellamater

Well-known member
With all the discussion lately on Ed's thread and Phils threads on what type of wood and differing techniques on how to do things, one topic that was recently brought up on Ed's thread was fairing in the repair. John was mentioning using fiberglass mat over the glass to help fill in the weave so you do NOT sand the glass. Sound advice.

however, there area few concerns with that. Mat is cheap, yes, but it likes to soak up LOTS of epoxy, which as we all know, is not cheap. Second, mat does not offer a lot in terms of structural strength or rigidity, notice please, I did not say none, just not a lot, so in essence, you may not really be gaining a whole lot over just using microballoons/epoxy and filling the weave of the glass. But, those that know balloons, know they then need a skim coat to cover them to fill all the micro holes created when you sand that down...further effort.

One gentleman who made a rather unique boat has a different method. I know this has been linked on here years ago since that is where I first saw it, but I thought I would bring it back up for others to see it and discuss.

http://duckworksmagazine.com/03/r/articles/glass/bottom.htm

(the advanced editor is not working for me right this minute, so I apologize for that link not being a hot link, I will try to edit that later if/when it works again)

Anyhow, you will notice that this man took .30 poly film in a roll, and applied it directly to wet epoxy, please note the effects. At the bottom of the page, there is a further link to his entire boat project. it is stunning and worth the 10 minutes you might give it.

I have used this technique to fix 3 different issues on my wife's boat where she dinged the gel coat...once on the dock...once on a sea wall....and once with water skis.....(imagine if it was us guys who did that....the horror of it all!! )

Anyhow, after applying all the layers/resin etc, I simply layed on the plastic film, rolled it, and unless you get extremely close, you will not notice the repairs, but even then, it is not because of unfair or unevenness, it is a color match thing that I was not able to hit exactly perfectly.

Ed, I was thinking of you with this one...
 
I like peel ply on fillets for that same reason - it doesn't get you the mirror finish, but it does get you a higher glass to resin ratio than nothing and it cuts way down on fairing and sanding.

It looks so cool, I feel like I want to try it it looks so slick. It really brings out the grain on that purty plywood
 
Todd,

I did not mention peel ply because of cost and you can actually get a much NICER finish with this method, although the ply has been around for years and works well too.


Ed, you are welcome I hope this helps. I know you said fishing boat, but what the heck, try it and learn a new skill. Besides, it is just something to play around with.
 
Todd,

I did not mention peel ply because of cost and you can actually get a much NICER finish with this method, although the ply has been around for years and works well too.


Ed, you are welcome I hope this helps. I know you said fishing boat, but what the heck, try it and learn a new skill. Besides, it is just something to play around with.


Yep, I only mentioned peel ply since it was my most similar experiance. Now that I think of it, clear package tape works well to do the same think on smaller (1" scale) patches, I've used that a bunch and it works super.

T
 
when you use this technique does the film come off the epoxy
clean, or do you have a problem with it sticking to the hull?

and with packing tape, does the tape's glue stick to the finished coat below?

looks like a very cool idea
 
when you use this technique does the film come off the epoxy
clean, or do you have a problem with it sticking to the hull?

and with packing tape, does the tape's glue stick to the finished coat below?

looks like a very cool idea


Tom, I'm assuming you are asking about the package tape. I've used it a bunch of different times, usually on small repairs with thickened epoxy (first raw epoxy to saturate the wood then thickened). I've always had the adhesive pull clean from the hull and new epoxy, leaving no mess.

T
 
Nice post Eric. Makes me want to build a boat just to try it. Thanks for the tips.

What a great site this is!!!
 
Okay, let me get this straight. I slap on some thickened epoxy....(thickened with what?) and then I pull out my trusty clear 3M packing tape I buy at Wally World and stick it over the epoxy? How about bubbles? Do I have to worry about bubbles? Is it better to apply the tape using a squeegy of some sort or just the heel of my hand to smooth out the tape? I'm worried that I'll just squeegy all my epoxy out of the area I'm trying to fix.
 
Okay, let me get this straight. I slap on some thickened epoxy....(thickened with what?) and then I pull out my trusty clear 3M packing tape I buy at Wally World and stick it over the epoxy? How about bubbles? Do I have to worry about bubbles? Is it better to apply the tape using a squeegy of some sort or just the heel of my hand to smooth out the tape? I'm worried that I'll just squeegy all my epoxy out of the area I'm trying to fix.


I haven't used it for a structural repair like yours Ed, but it would work if you chose to repair from the inside and not open the outside up. It is just a means to hold the stuff in place until it sets. If your epoxy is thickened properly with the right stuff, it can be trowelled into place and stay there too. The up side to the tape is that often you can get an very good fix and eliminate the need for a lot of sanding. A guy that does it all the time can proabbly fair in a patch with just a single quick wipe and not need the tape. Class in 3 minutes - gotta go....
 
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