anybody here ever use Duracoat on a gun ?

I have a model 700 that had that treatment, by a previous owner. It was gunsmith applied, and baked on. It is rugged stuff for a field gun. It is just the OD color, nothing fancy, but it is a durable non-reflective coating.
 
I used DURA Coat to finish this gun, triger guard, magazine plate and screws on this squirrel gun I built in April. It was a Marlin 25 in .22 LR. The barrel was completely rusted and had absolutely no bluing on it. The stock was good, as in the picture. I purchased the gun for $25.00. I removed the barrel and took it to my gunsmith and had him epoxy in a .17 caliber liner. I had him chamber it for the .17 Mach II, shorten the barrel from 22" to 19.5", add a target crown, fill the rear sight slot and polish the barrel and action ($65.00). For scope bases, I purchased a Weaver base made to convert a 3/8" groved receiver to 7/8 Weaver rings ($5.00). I cut it into two pieces on my band saw, added a couple of set screws and epoxied it to the receiver.
I used the epoxy Dura Coat that completely hardens over a 6 week period. Very easy to use. Degrease the gun and spray with an airbrush, three coats. I re-worked the trigger to 2 pounds and mounted a Weaver V9 scope ($20.00 at a gun show). I was going to refinish the stock, but my gunsmith finished the barrel work too soon. It is accurate and has already disposed of numerous gophers around the house and red squirrels out of my wife's bird feeders.



Marlin25.jpg

 
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Dave, did you have to polish the rust off the barrel? I was thinking of doing this on my old 11-48 28ga that has very thin bluing and rusts in a damp room. Just wondered what the prep was for rusts and small pits since it wasn't addressed on the site.
 
Dave, did you have to polish the rust off the barrel? I was thinking of doing this on my old 11-48 28ga that has very thin bluing and rusts in a damp room. Just wondered what the prep was for rusts and small pits since it wasn't addressed on the site.
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Lee, My gumsmith went ahead and polished my action and barrel fore me. I was going to just buff with 0000 steel wool. The better you buff it the better the final finish. You might try some 400 or 600 sand paper. Dura Coat is very thin and goes on in very thin layers. I gave mine three coats and still have enough to do another gun. It looks good and so far I've been pleased. After I finish the boat I'm building I'll refinish the stock staining dark to contrast the OD green more.
 
Scott Myers put duraBAKE on his SBE and I don't think he found it as durable as he would have liked.
 
"WON'T RUST EVER" pardon the caps lock, the new system only takes caps for business and I forget to take them off for the REALLY important stuff. Anywho....that is a tough statement. You don't do the guts of a gun with it...right? Dave, did your gunsmith do the bolt and bolt raceway? What about screw heads and shanks? I couldn't tell on the directions online whether a total strip of the gun was required and plugging of holes, ejection ports etc. were needed.I really want to do the Grandsons 11-48 and I guess I'll need to polish it first because there are a few little pits here and there.Being a recoil operated gun, I wonder if the barrel shank needs to betaped off or if the product doesn't build up thick enough to bind.
 
Harker,

It is actually pretty thin stuff. On my m700 it is on the inside of the action where the bolt slides (and on the bolt itself - bolt and trigger parts are black, barrel and action are OD).

It does wear thin/through on high friction steel to steel surfaces like where the bolt contacts the action. It doesn't seem to wear with softer metals (like the lead tips of bullets on the feed ramp) or where there is normal friction from usage.

Not sure how that would be on a shotgun where the barrel slides into the action.

My 2 cents, for a deer hunting rifle this stuff is good, but for a shotgun, I think I'd go with a coating like Top Gun steath-tech (http://www.gunfinish.com/stealth.cfm) that has more rust resistance and adds some lubricity. Especially if it gets saltwater contact. That is what I am going to have done to my sbe. It is actually pretty reasonably priced.

Charlie
 
"WON'T RUST EVER" pardon the caps lock, the new system only takes caps for business and I forget to take them off for the REALLY important stuff. Anywho....that is a tough statement. You don't do the guts of a gun with it...right? Dave, did your gunsmith do the bolt and bolt raceway? What about screw heads and shanks? I couldn't tell on the directions online whether a total strip of the gun was required and plugging of holes, ejection ports etc. were needed.I really want to do the Grandsons 11-48 and I guess I'll need to polish it first because there are a few little pits here and there.Being a recoil operated gun, I wonder if the barrel shank needs to betaped off or if the product doesn't build up thick enough to bind.
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Lee, First, I did the gun myself, very easy. I made a spray box and put a brass rod through the barrel and action and just rotated it as I sprayed. I think the one rifle kit of Dura Coat 4 oz. was about $18.00. I did not do the bolt. I polished it with a Dremel tool and buffing compound and left it silver and black. I only coated part of the inside action, did not attemp to get all of the inside. I did all the screws and heads and screw holes. I would not do the barrel shank on a gas operated shotgun. For the price of $18.00 you can do two long guns. Or do one now and redo it in 5 or 10 years.
 
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