Arthur Armstong Wigeon seam Leak


If everything is intact you will need to drill out rivets to remove rub rail, back out screws, use a putty knife or similar to separate the sealant and then the top should pop off the hull. It does fit tight so becareful not to put to much pressure on one spot when prying them apart.

Good luck and post some pictures if you rebuild, wish I had documented my rebuild.
 
Last edited:
Thanks for the wealth of info! The cap is separated on the top of the transom with evidence of patching. The rivets on rub rail are intact so I doubt hull has ever been split . There is clear silicone under seam at rub rail so I suspect it leaked. I bought it at an estate sale for $325 so I didn't look hard but was told it was outside and full of water. General appearance did not indicate it was outside long term- next to 6 car garage! Started building KARA day before I stumbled on this, so I've got some work to do! Thanks again!
 
Another thing to look for is the drain plug tube in the splash well. Mine was plastic and broken and the seal let go long ago. So water would seep in as well around the plastic plug and into the wood core transom. I replaced with a brass drain tube over the plastic through hull fitting.

Clear sealant sounds like additional sealant by the former owner as my sealant was white, probably 5200.
 
The leak between the top and bottom halves is not uncommon. Silicone will work for a while. I cleaned mine up good and sealed with epoxy.
Really enjoyed that boat, John
 
Turned mine upside down and cut out as much old caulk as i could then poured in epoxy. 5 years still no leaks, knock on wood
 
I would be careful on what you use to seal it up as when you need to replace the transom core, you will be making a disaster for yourself. If the transom core is wood I would use a 3M marine sealant or comparable rather than a hardened epoxy that binds the two parts together and you have to cut them apart. I would only use epoxy if you are confident that you will never need to access the interior for repairs.
 
Last edited:
Here are a few pictures. A couple of notes:1) Hull is placarded for 10 hp limit, which seems to be different then other wigeons.2) How should foam be treated? Just paint or does it require more attention? 3) you can see on the top of the transom that cap is seperated 4) what happened to the cleat on the nose? There is a sheet metal duckhead logo on nose where cleat would be- wonder if that was factory, or covering hole where cleat was pulled off? Any thoughts appreciated?
image.gif
[font=Verdana,Arial,Helvetica] Wigeon Rear Transom.JPG [/font][font=Verdana,Arial,Helvetica] [/font]
image.gif
[font=Verdana,Arial,Helvetica] Rear interior Wigeon.JPG [/font]
image.gif
[font=Verdana,Arial,Helvetica] Wigeon Sideview.JPG [/font]

View attachment Wigeon Rear Transom.JPG
View attachment Rear interior Wigeon.JPG
View attachment Wigeon Sideview.JPG
 
Last edited:
One thing with the foam...it is considered to be closed cell however it always seems to absorbe water. I would at the very least, get a marine epoxy paint and cover it with a few coats to try and create a barrier. Check to see if it is waterlogged before doing this. If it is dry, get some paint and try a small area where the foam is exposed to make sure the paint does not disolve the foam. If it's good, put two coats 8-10 mils thick for each coat. Follow the MFG directions on second and top coat timing so as not to trap volatiles in the curing flashoff. Make sure you create a solid barrier to repel water. I just did this with my Huff Box where as the foam is glassed in but I wanted to be darn sure that there was a complete barrier.
 
Mine does not have any exposed flotation, it is all underneath the deck. Mine did have a small cleat just in front of the cockpit, it was in an awkward spot and I finally took it off. I think they have always been rated for 10 horsepower, but you could easily go to a 15 on these boats. Also, never have had any transom trouble either, mine is a late 80's. The one problem that I did have years ago was that the hull would deflect where it started to rise toward the bow, and eventually caused it to crack. I ended up cutting down the center and fastening the keel to whatever you would call the similar piece that goes from the ris to the bow. Anyway, I made a bracket, filled it all in with epoxy putty, then glassed it over, been rock solid ever since. I have also added a couple more layers of glass to the bottom over the years to beef it up a little bit, and that has made it a little heavier, but I like it better in case I was to have to deal with some skim ice.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top