Arthur Armstrong Broadbill Rebuild

I think that the 420 Predator would be just about perfect for that boat. Mud motors don't really equal outboards as far as HP numbers go, there are a few companies that build 7hp longtails in the 60-80 pound range but I'm not sure that would be enough motor for that boat. For comparison I have a 15hp longtail on my sneakboat that's 12'9 long by 56" at the widepoint of the beam, hull weight of about 130lbs minus the motor, and it's just about perfect performance wise. I'm almost positive that any longtail under 10hp won't plane your boat.
 
Thanks for your information Cody! This is really helpful. If you don't mind sharing, what kind of speeds with what kind of loads are you seeing on your sneak boat? Also, what size prop are you running?
 
No problem Trey. Just me and the dog in my sneakboat and we will get 15mph on average and up to 18 or 20 in the shallows. With 2 guys, 80lb dog, gear, and 2 big bags of decoys we will get around 12mph or so on average. Funny thing about mud motors is that your speed will actually jump up by 1 or 2 mph in the shallows, for some reason they are faster in the shallow water than deeper. Prop size is dependent on horsepower, but I've had good luck with an 8x4 prop with motors from 12-15hp, usually 15 to 24hp or so motors will run a 9x5 or 9x6.
 
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I run a 25 on mine and it does fly!. I did have a 35 on her for about 100 yards but that is a different story that old timers her know and probably still chuckle about. It came off.
 
Hey guys sorry it's been so long since an update! I've been so busy with work I have had no time to work on the boat. I got a little done this weekend, but am unsure if it is what I really want to do. I cut a bulkhead for the front and a small on for the rear. I made a short stringer and cut out the floor. I used 3/4" for the bulkheads and stringers, and 3/8" for the floor. The floor is about 24" wide. I was planning on sealing up the bulkheads and putting pvc running front to rear to drain the water from the front. I am really having trouble making decisions on how to set up the boat. My idea was to have my dog in the hole in the front and me lay down facing the rear. Thought I would put some doors like a layout blind or something. How does everyone here hunt with a dog out of these boats? Please give me some advise on what to do at this point. Here are my pictures of how it sits now.
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Hi Trey,
The cockpit of my Broadbill was long enough that I sat on the floor and put the dog behind my backrest. If I was hauling lots of decoys I carried them on the front deck.
One of the best things about that set-up was while lying in wait my dog would put his muzzle on my shoulder and help keep us both warm!!
Hope you enjoy the boat, John
 
Trey if you glass the front bulk head in like that with those long tubes you will trap all kinds of water up there. Can you put a drain tube in the front bulkhead like a drain tube for the transom? that would allow the water to go under the floor and then drain to the rear? Otherwise looks good. Not sure 3/8" ply is gonna last long for the floor though. 1/2" would be minimum I would think.
 
Sorry Tony, the pvc is long in the front because I havent cut it yet. I was planning on cutting it flush with the bulkhead. Also I plan on glassing both sides of the 3/8" ply so I thought it would be plenty stiff, especially considering it will only span 12". John, thats one thing I have been struggling with lol. In my big boat my dog sits beside me and when its slow he lays his head in my lap and sleeps.
 
Trey, the pipe is for drainage? Or wire chase? If drainage, I would rethink it... it will grow something or freeze or some other way become plugged over time and you will be unaware. I would do a drain such as Tony suggested. You can see the results, and poke it open if need be. As it should be dry anyway, the plug pulled after the hunt would allow it to drain?
 
I was planning on using them for drainage. I didn't know if it would be okay for water to run free under the floor. I figured I wouldn't want to plug the front while we hunt because the water would build up and I didn't want my dog to sit in water. I am completely open to suggestions at this point, keep the ideas coming! If you don't think the bulkhead and floor needs to be set up like that feel free to chime in.
 
If your area under the floor is wide open there is no issue with water draining from the bow to the stern. Get some transom drain plug tubes and put one in the bottom where your tubing is and be done with it. I would be glad to let you borrow a setting tool if you need one to do it. The tubes are a couple bucks then you simply put a standard rubber twist drain plug in it.

The problem with most boats isn't water in them. Its allowing the water to get out of them. If it gets trapped it causes damage. If it can easily get to the bilge life is good.

http://www.opentip.com/Sports-Outdoors/Whitecap-Brass-Drain-Tube-p-2100610.html?gclid=CMK50Obr97YCFegWMgodrTcAOw
 
Tony I appreciate the offer on borrowing the tube setter. Could you post a picture of the tool? I might be able to make something myself.
 
I cannot but if you search transom drai. Tube tool you should be able to see it. Odds are making one will be tougb without a steel.
 
Just looked it up, I can make one pretty easy. I have access to a lathe at work. Is the only problem with the pipes them clogging up and/or freezing? I'm still thinking it would be better to have the water go straight through the tubes than to be all around under the floor. What am I missing?
 
Just looked it up, I can make one pretty easy. I have access to a lathe at work. Is the only problem with the pipes them clogging up and/or freezing? I'm still thinking it would be better to have the water go straight through the tubes than to be all around under the floor. What am I missing?
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If there is no foam or way for water to be trapped under the floor it will easily flow to the transom bildge drain.

If you trust a narrow area like a tube way to many things can happen to screw that up later.

Mice, Birds, Bee's, squirrels etc. and any little thing can clog these narrow passages later. If you have a drain plug installed in the wood and keep it plugged when not in use and the whole hull keel to drain through and out with just a 1" section where the plug goes there is NO WAY possible for there to be blockage you can easily fix.

But you can do it that way. But trust me from experience. More room for water to escape is far better. Your restoring your boat now and replacing all that wood for a reason. Probably not associated with what were discussing but non the less many boats are lost or have extensive damage from this very cause.
 
Trey, I think your over thinking it with the drain.
First, If anything I would would remove the tubes make a nice size gap in front and back for drain holes so if any trash debris etc you could flush or pull out. For the transom drain plug they sell brass drain tubes at Hamiltonmarine.com. Just drill hole epoxy in and your done.
Second, I would glass the Dog/hole in bow in.but if you like it then I would make a dodger that covers u and dog. It doesnt have to hitall in front as dog could lay in there and still see what your shooting at out the bow.
Third, I would widen your floor. Oar/rack to oar/gun racks in hull. Not having a level floor would bug the hell out of me across the hull floor. Any decoys stored under gunnels are going to slide down to bulk head floor causing a giant mess of decoys while going in and out hunting. And use 3/4 ply. 3/8 isn't worth your time and effort.
These opinions might not be what ya want to do but what I'd do. Keep us posted.

Gene R.
 
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