Big Water Anchoring Question

M

Mike Trudel

Well-known member
In the past my chalks and cleat were always near the bow, however my blind on the new boat comes back 5', and I can't reach the front bow area. My question is, can I locate a cleat on each side (back approximately 4' from bow tip), use no chalks and just anchor off either side instead of utilizing one central clete, with chalks on each side?

I know on skinny water this would not mater, but wondered about water with 2-4 rollers? Thanks.
 
You can put cleats anywhere you like, but anchoring on an "offset" cleat will not let the boat lay into the wind properly, especially 4-5' back from the bow.
Here is an idea for you to think about. Put your anchor cleat where you can readily reach it, then, install a chock, (proper spelling) that has a clip, or some device that allows the line to go in, but not come out. They make these, they may not call them chocks, then run your anchor line through this "chock" and leave it in place, the anchor will be inside the boat near the bow. When ready, let out your anchor and line as usual and cleat off on your new cleat. You will be anchored properly bow to the wind because your new chock is holding your line at the bow. You can even tie off a stern cleat because the line is still attached to the bow, this will allow you to run the boat under power forward, while you pull your anchor line in with no tension, just don't pull the anchor all the way up to the bow, leave a few feet so you can grab it where you can readily reach it, unless you want the anchor hanging from the bow for a quick move, then, just slack off your line and the anchor will drop, and you pay out as much line as you need, presto, your anchored again.

So easy a Bayman can do it. lol
 
Mike,

How small of boat are you discussing? Small boats should not be anchored from the deck as this prevents the bow from rising to the waves and you run the risk of getting swamped. The anchor should be attached to the bow eye. Since you can’t reach it you need a bow line with a ring spliced or tied into it at a point that is within your comfortable reach. The rest of the bow line should be long enough to reach your side cleat when the ring is pulled straight out by the anchor line which will be tied off to the ring. This will allow a direct pull on the bow eye and provide you the ability to then draw the ring back to you in the cockpit to pull anchor. Additionally by pulling it in part way you can make a bridle to allow you to sit at an angle to the wind when calmer conditions permit.

View attachment anchor bridle.jpg


This is a method I use for my 20 – ft Lund when anchoring over reefs. Changing the bridle length and changing sides it’s tied off to allows me to position the boat over new sections of the reef without pulling and resetting the hook. The Lund came rigged without bow cleats or chalks making me believe they want the anchor rigged to the bow eye even on the 20-fter. I think I will have to make up a line for my new sneak box as there is no way I’m getting to the bow easily.

As a last note, keep the bow line short enough to be unable to reach the prop (if at all possible).
Scott
 
The cleat has to be located where the boat will "balance".

I have a 23' w/175OB that I keep on a mooring here in Rhode Island. Plugging some reefs WHEN IT ISN'T ROUGH I will anchor from a cleat that is just forward of the beam. Mostly I do this in light winds to when dealing w/current. Where the cleat is located the boat balances nicely beam to wind/current & 2/3 guys can cast without getting in one anothers way.
 
I do pretty much what Scott has drawn.....nice drawing by the way!

One thing that I change a little is to have the full anchor line load carried by the bow eye. In stead of having a bridle with a ring, my bridle/short line (from the bow eye to the anchor line back to the middle of the boat) is fixed and I can just motor forward, unclip from the float on the anchor line, and then pull the bridle back into the boat. This is good when you can't easily get to the bow eye...

Some times I just make it one step easier and have a short (6-8ft) long line clipped to the bow eye and then than clips to my anchor line. When I go to pick up a bird/whatever, I just motor forward to take the load off, unclip, and then clip the short line inside the boat so it isn't flopping around under the hull. That is a no-no....

Good luck...

-Ivan
 
Scott, Ivan, I understand what your saying and the reason, but.. you have no way to adjust the length of your anchor line, at least that I can see.
If your in shallow water, there's no need to run out the whole length, or do you?
 
I usually just run the anchor line all out...I've never had an issue with too much anchor line, so I don't sweat it. I sometimes run a small anchor off the stern to stop the boat from getting blown around by the wind if it shifts.
 
George,

You've lots of options. If you’re settling in let out the desired length of anchor rode less the length of your bow to painter loop (12-ft?) then tie the anchor line off to the painter loop. I pull the doubled line through the loop and tie off with two half hitches with the doubled line. Bring the excess line back into the boat along with the tag end of the painter; tie everything off to keep it out of the water. If you’re going to be adding a float and dropping the anchor for quick release, tie in a large clip with a dropper to a float. Clip into the painter loop and coil and tie off the rest of the anchor line and drop it and the float into the water. To leave fast, pull the painter tag end in to the loop, un-clip the anchor rode and toss it off to windward - you’re free! On your return, grab the float and clip back into the painter loop. If you anchor the majority of the time in shallow water, set the anchor up with a short rode ending in a strong clip or snap. Clip into the painter and let all the line out. A float on a dropper can also be easily snapped on. If you find yourself in deeper water simply tie in more scope.

Working out the best method for you is part of the fun.

Scott
 
My set-up looks just like Scotts. I don't hunt in a lot of deep water(less than 20')
so I just put all the anchor line out. My painter is attached to the bow eye and has a ring mid way
that is attached to a clip on thre anchor line with the other end attached to a cleatalong side.
If I need to chase a cripple I just pull in the painter to the ring and drop the anchor line. I have a
decoy on a dropper attached to the end of the anchor line so I don't have to reset the anchor.
Works for Me, John
 
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