blind dimensions


hey all, I'm setting up a TDB-like blind on my BBII and and in the process of setting the conduit frame into its final position. After that comes canvas at which point I'm locked into that I want to get it right now.

Currently it's set such that the long opening the length of the cockpit is 27" wide and the height from the floor boards is about 38". after sitting in the cockpit on a milk crate (shooting platform of choice) I'm thinking of lowering the side as the frame was hampering a level gun mount. At this height, a gunner would need to crouch down a bit to get behind the blind, but I'm thinking that while it might feel short in the garage, it will be roughly 6-12" inches higher in the field when it's covered with grass.

All of that said, this is my first build of a blind like this so wanted to see if there were additional thoughts or recommendations before I lock it all down.

Good morning, Jamus~

Here are the dimensions I developed for a sit-up blind on my Sneakbox. We sat on spackle buckets and the "sill" was 34 inches above the floorboards.. With milk crates, you could go a couple inches lower. These heights, of course, presume you have some sort of flaps. We lowered the front one to shoot. It can be a bit lower than mine - but the rear should be higher than your heads.

In addition to a better hide, the folding flaps are nice because the grass/vegetation is protected when down.


Hope this helps!


Jamus - when I wanted to do a temporary height modification to the blind on my DB 15 I used PVC with emt inserted to give it strength. If you do a search you will see the pics. The final height from the top rail to the deck floor is 43 inches. We sit on fold up tri fold chairs I purchased at Dick's and they are roughly the same height as a milk crate with a cushion except these offer a back support.
Back to your question, I can only tell you that this year I plan on reconfiguring the blind modification and definitely make it lower. I found that crouching down was not a problem but the height caused more movement when we shouldered our guns. I will use grass and salt hay to make any height adjust might needed.
Hope this helps somewhat and good luck ...... Joe
Hi Steve and Joe, thanks for the responses. I'm somewhat committed to the all canvas route at this point and I appreciate the input on the sizes.

The boat that I am outfitting is pictured below. I have a bimini dodger that was made when the boat and I were both young and one of the design points in this new blind, is to preserve and not interfere with the hardware to use that old blind. Should I wish to, I could install it and shoot this boat like a sneakbox, from the floor and back over the stern.

With this new blind system, I have installed four removable uprights and would like to get canvas sewn into four panels that dead end into the turn buttons on the outer coamings. That's the plan anyway if I can get the configuration right.

so it sounds like the 27" wide opening is pretty good. It's all about the height then. My concern with the current height (40") is that a gunner would need to stand to shoot level to water. Not sure I like that terribly, but as has been my experience, sometimes issues imagined in the shop don't necessarily present themselves in practice on the water. So what's the verdict? lower the rails some? How does one normally shoot from a blind like this? I'd like to stay seated and not have to stand to shoot.

thanks for all the input


Steve, is that the blind you have pictured in the photos in these other threads (I couldn't get the link to work)?

As usual a brilliant, and well-executed, design.;search_string=blind;#223172;search_string=blind;#222159
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Yes - it's the one I made for my Sneakbox - so I could bring my Dad along in comfort.




It was very effective if you could set up against some tall Cordgrass.

It is tall, though - so I did not use it in high winds.

All the best,



That blind has gone to wrack and ruin. Foolishly, I used lauan plywood (underlayment) instead of AC - and I did not seal it with epoxy as I would today. So, I dismantled it when I took the measurements a few years ago. I saved a few key pieces and the hardware in case I "need" to built another some day. It would make sense if I hunt the lower end of Lake Champlain or along the Hudson River with my Snreakbox.

I DID use it as a deer blind (without the boat) here on the farm for a couple of years.....

All the best,


I have been contemplating the same style of blind for my Honker. I have found this snap together tubing that I was thinking might be of some value in the design. Here is the link to the site.

let me know your thoughts on using this...
I like that, gave me several more ideas.

Do you put your blind up when you arrive at your spot, I can see having a hex wrench around being a problem as in loosing it.
Honestly .... I put it up a few times the first year... And not since... It rolls up and stores on the deck. I got the nylon extrusions from Banked boats

I'm contemplating trying to put together a blind like the one you've shown, and wondering how did you (and especially your dad) get in and out of the boat with this setup?

Did you crawl through the canvas skirt on the aft side?

Thanks for all you've shared so far, and for any additional input you care to give.
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Yes, the aft "wall" was a canvas curtain that hung down from a piece of plywood - both were thatched up. The plywood keyed into 2 "hooks" either side of the opening. When under way - the entire assembly was folded and stowed inside.

Here is the aft end of the blind. (You'll notice how the lauan underlayment had delaminated.) The bottom piece of plywood - which serves as both threshold and knees (gussets) - was 3/8-inch AC - and held up nicely with just Cuprinol and duckboat paint.


Here is the starboard (shooting) side "hook" for hanging the aft "door". (I think I still have the "door" in the loft....)

If I did it again, I would make 2 changes:

1) Make the aft door from plywood - mostly to keep heat in on those cold days. We never used a heater - but I would now on days when it's below freezing.

2) Make the shooting side "flap" just 5 inches "tall" - but thatch it up so the grass sticks up 8 or 12 inches higher. This would allow better vision through the grass for oncoming/incoming birds - but the grass would be protected when folded down in transit. (The backside flap should be both solid plywood and taller than your head - for both hide and wind protection.)

When you start your project, I would be happy to throw in my 2 cents.

Hope this helps!


Thanks, Steve. That picture, and your explanation help tremendously. Thanks, also, for your kind offer to share further input.

This is such a fine concept for sneakbox hunting for those occasions when one needs, or desires, to shoot from a seated position.

The ability to add and to remove the assembled attachment (apparently in just minutes) makes this especially attractive.

Yes - this is quick to "install". Mine fit over my raised spray dodger, then got lashed at its 4 corners. There were 3-inch cleats on each corner of the blind and short lengths of light line "permanently" lashed to the thatch rails. It really took about 1 minute to put on or take off - and it weighed about 30 pounds fully thatched.

All the best,


I think it makes sense for me first to try to make a model/prototype from cardboard and scrap pine lying about the garage. It may very well be the design needs a few tweaks to fit my boat (though it looks like my boat is sort of a scaled-down (11-ft) version of that 18-ft garvey seen in one of Steve's boatblind photos from the old days.