Kim, as I mentioned in my response to your original PM, I made a cut-out in the hard cover in that corner, covering the hole with a fiberglass lay-up with a raised rectangular dome to accomodate the stern light receptacle's height. Christian was kind enough to send me a quart of orginal hull color gel coat, so other than the 3M 5200 seal line, it is a match for the hard cover. I tucked the wiring and wire loom under the lip of the stern cockpit coaming, bedding it in a bead of Marine RTV.
I sited the stern light receptacle there so the light pole would be flush against my left side at its base while I was sitting on the cockpit coaming at the helm station as well as not sitting exposed to the elements when the boat is sitting outside. I used the long stern light wand length to get the light up above my head (I am a little over 6'-3"), as well as getting it above the erected blind, so the stern light is visible while running with the blind up. I did get the original cap/cover for the light receptacle caught on a fold in my waders, ripping it off sometime over the first year. That's why I jury-rigged the plug that is pictured. The lanyard is tied-off to the pre-drilled hole in the starboard interior shelf via a length of braided nylon decoy cord for retrieval. If you use the flush-mount receptacle (either Hamilton Marine or Defender Marine has this available). You have the option of going with an LED stern light when you rig your boat, which has a significantly lower amperage draw rate than mine.
I have the rain roof option on my boat, so all I need do to affix the removed blind bow panel while running is to unclip it, slid it around to the left, and re-clip it to hang on the outside of the erected blind to run with the bow open when it is not too rough.
If I had a do-over, I would mount the toggle switch panel on the bottom of the starboard interior shelf below my right thigh when I am at the helm. With it mounted in this configuration, I would need only reach down with my free right hand to operate it while underway. In its current location I have to reach across to hit a switch, breaking eye contact with the horizon, in most instances this doesn't create an issue, but I though I would mention it since you are in the process of laying out your hull's interior wiring set-up. One spot I hunt is very near a commercial fishing operation, so occasionally I have to dodge poorly lighted fish tugs and trapnet boats that are running out at the same time I am leaving to go set-up. They are a good group of folks, but they run at planing speed in full darkness in a very narrow section of channel that we share. I also have to contend with "salty" and ore carrier traffic on the St. Marys. Down bound ore boats (750-1,200') draw about two feet less than the project depth of the ship channel, so they "push" about an, on-average, four foot displacement wave that radiates off their bows, moving parallel on ship passage, and then back out to the shipping channel. If you are running in an adjacent shoal water area, you can suddenly be contending with a breaking wave that literally appears out of nowhere. These ship traffic related displacement episodes "free" off-channel deadheads on a relatively routine basis.
