Buying a Used Outboards

[Capt. Frank Miller]

Looking for a new (used Motor) 50 to 75 hp. I wanted some thoughts. Would you consider a dealer rebuilt motor with a warranty? What do you look at besides compression when you check out a used motor? Do you replace certain items automatically when buying a used motor? Is there a maximum age you would consider? Thanks as always for your advice.

 

[John L]

What do they consider rebuilt? Rebuilt covers a broad spectrum depending on who your talking to.
Some shops will just swap out a bad piston and say it's been rebuilt.
Try to find out how what was wrong with the motor that it needed to be rebuilt and what they actually did.
Make sure the lower unit shift cleanly in and out of gear. Check the to see if the water pump / impeller and gear lube have been changed. If possible take the motor for a test drive to check it under load. Just because it runs in test tank and pumps water does not mean it will work properly under load.
And of course a compression test to make sure there is not to much of a difference between cylinder readings. Rule of thumb is approx. 10% between cylinders.
Check motor mounts for excessive play and if everything checks out you may have a keeper.
You could always bring it to another shop to get another opinion.
Good luck

 

[Huntindave McCann]

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Would you consider a dealer rebuilt motor with a warranty?

Certainly, in fact it may be your best used option, depending on the premium ( or price) the dealer is charging over and above the going price for a used motor of the same vintage that has no warranty.




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What do you look at besides compression when you check out a used motor?

Under the hood look for cracked hoses and fuel lines. Look for signs of past leakage of fittings and hoses. Brittle or cracked insulation on electrical wiring and components. Look at the screws and bolts, are the heads rounded or stripped from improper tool usage during previous disassembly and/or possible repairs. Not that prior repair is bad but sloppy wrenching indicates sloppy work.

On the outside look for impact damage to the lower unit and skeg. Bent or impact damaged blades on the prop may mean a bent prop shaft. Leaking seals are not good signs, might get by with replacing the seal but it may also indicate a bent shaft.

Check for worn linkage in the tiller handle or remote controls. Parts to fix these can add up.



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Is there a maximum age you would consider?

That can get very interesting. There will certainly be a few older gems out there that would give you a reliable engine for a bargain price. That said if you figure in your time spent looking for one it may not be that big of bargain. Personally I would buy as current model year as your budget will allow.
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[Carl]

I would consider any engine that is reasonably priced, has good compression and overall looks and runs good.
Appearence may be cosmetic but it indicates how well it was taken care of. If its all dinged up, has corrosion spots all over and generally looks like it has been put through the wringer, it probably has.
In your area, saltwater is an issue. Check all the bolts, brackets, zincs, etc.., for signs of bad corrosion. Any signs of barnacles on the foot?, which is an indicator is was kept on a lift for long periods of time, a deal killer for me.
Other than lower unit oil, plugs and an impeller, not to much to replace up-front unless you know it needs it. Maybe fuel lines if they look cracked.
As far as age, depending on looks and how it runs, I would go back as far as the mid-80's if it was in great shape.

 

[Ed L.]

Besides what the others have said I'd look for discolored or bubbled paint around the thermostat area. Ths can be a tell-tale sign of over heating. If the head has over headed most likely the head warped and was milled flat again so the head gasket will seal. I've heard mechanics say that you can shave .030 off a head and be safe. Well I'll tell you I blew 3 head gaskets before I wised up and forked out the money for a new head. Another thing to look for is the cylinders should not be more than 5 or 10 P.S.I different from one another. Something else is going on besides rings. It could be a case gasket seal issue or bearings and wrist pin issues. Whether you're in Florida or Alsaka, the best preventative medicine on any used outboard purchase is to replace the water pump and lower unit oil.

Good luck and buy a motor from the lakes area. You can't imagine the garbage I've looked at over her on the gulf coast. New paint and a shelled out lower unit with the guy saying "Salt?...no not often but when I do take it out I ALWAYS FLUSH IT OUT....BS!

Take care,

Ed L.

 

[BrentS]

I would actually feel better about buying a "used" motor, rather than a "rebuilt".......my trust in people keeps getting lower.
But personally, when it comes to outboards, I wouldn't even consider buying a used one..........unless I really knew the seller/previous-owner.
Remember, it's definitely a "buyer's market"....the price should be considerably low, and much lower than a new motor.
If I had a dollar for every time a mechanic, technician, specialist, etc. screwed something up......