Can we talk boat trailer light upgrades?

CAnderson

CAnderson

Well-known member
Looking for ideas to make changes on my current boat trailer lighting. I have a fairly standard Load Rite galvanized steel, single axle boat trailer for a 16' Alumacraft mod-v. I replaced the trailer lighting with "sealed" LED units 2 years ago.

They need to be replaced. I would like to do so in a manner that perhaps will help with longevity, reliability, and safety. I am thinking I would like to gt the lights up higher, perhaps closer to the gunwhale level of the oat when on the trailer. The lights could be used as guides when backing up at unlit ramps and would keep the lights out of the water.

I know some of you have made upgrades or improvements in the past year or so. I am thinking it was specifically ChuckJ or HunitnDave that had a nice post up apt their modifications.

Can anyone help with ideas or photos of things to do to make the trailer safer to be seen with lights that are more useful and reliable?

Thanks in advance.
 
finalwiring.jpg

Here is a link to a prevoius thread. Trailer rebuild part two and the first part on my trailer rebuild

 
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Dave-

Thanks for the link to the post. That is exactly the one that I was thinking about. What did you use for the metal post in the first trailer thread? It appears you welded some steelt tubing to the trailer frame and then ran a PVC sleeve over the top of that. Am I seeing that correctly?


thanks again. Nice work on the trailer. I assume everything worked out as you hoped for in the end. Any changes that you would make after using this setup for the past hunting season?
 
What did you use for the metal post in the first trailer thread? It appears you welded some steelt tubing to the trailer frame and then ran a PVC sleeve over the top of that. Am I seeing that correctly?
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Yes that is correct. I used some tubing we had laying around here at the machine shop where I work. It was about 1.63 dia. and .080 wall thickness. Nice and stout once welded in place. The pvc serves both to dress it up and as a mounting post for the upper lights. The pvc extends just a bit above the steel tubing inside it. The upper lights fit just like a pvc end cap. The vertical LED tail lights are DOT approved for stop and tail lights.

Everything has worked out as planned and I am real happy with it. Can't see myself changing anything.
 
I got so tired of replacing light that I finally got smarter and mounted my lights on a board that goes across the stern of the boat and is held in place by the stern tie down strap. Removed before launching (the board is stored in the bed of my truck), it never gets submerged, exposed to saltwater, and the wiring is up off the road and away from road damage. You'll have to run a ground wire in your harness, and I wrapped mine in that black flexi stuff to protect the wires.

Accomplishes every duck hunter's requirements:

Higher for safety
Last longer
No more corrosion
Helps hold the boat to the trailer better
No more lost/damaged lights/wires/license plate
No more covered in mud or broken on uneven ramps

I even mounted a tractor light to light up the ramp as I back down. I remove the light assembly after I am lined up on the ramp. Easy!!! I am typically the only hunter there at that time of the morning and use a ramp most avoid... so no lines.

Only thing it doesn't do...give you guides to trailer your boat by.

I can post a picture or two later if you'd like.

Mike
 
Mike, If you have the time a pic would be nice. I have seen someone else do what you are talking about. At the time I thought it rather clever. Would last a long time too. I like the idea of having additional back-up lights. I am thinking about mounting some inside my van rear window to shine out. I can set them up to function directly with the engagement of reverse or put them on a separate switch. I am thinking the switch would be preferrable.
 
I had the exact same thing as Mike with a 16' mirrocraft aluminum boat that I had. I mounted the lights to a 2x6 that I had laying around, measured 8" beyond beam (4" on each side), then notched where it went over the gunnels, Added eye bolts at the very end of each side so that I could tie it down to the trailer. Like mentioned, you do need to run a ground wire for your lights. Once completed, it worked great as the light and license plate rack and also the transom tie down. The only draw back, it was a custom light bracket for only that boat. Couldn't really use the trailer for anything else.

.
 
Here are some pictures I just took. Ignore the kayak across the bow of my Higbee. State Trooper said I had to have the plate on the trailer. And, I left the old lights on... for no reason other than I got bored and moved on the the next project before removing them.

From the stern
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Starboard side to show how I constructed it and how it is attached to the trailer.
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Port side to show construction and how it is attached to the trailer. I need to finish wrapping it.
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Got to register her later this spring. Hoping to register two of them at the same time... IF I finish the BBSB refurb in time.
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Mike
 
Mr. Rowinsky

Thats the most sensible tail light setup I have ever seen. The folks selling replacement parts, and lights are not gonna like that. They sure made enough $$ off me though, but no more.
Thank you for sharing your idea.
 
You're welcome! Anything I can do to keep us hunting and not wasting money on frivolous stuff...that's what I'll pass on!

Mike
 
On one of my trailers I use the lights with magnets. Easy on and off. They never get submerged since I take them off at the ramp. When the boat's in the driveway I store the lights in the truck. So far so good.
 
Did not use the saltwater series. Mine are shorter with side rollers. Works well for my boat. I've used the portable lights as I used different trailers, just another thing to wrap up and put back on. At my age I try to limit exercise. Chris has the bracket with the leds and he really likes them.
All the ones I've seen work well out of the water, you have to see what works for you.
 
Whatever you guys do, make sure you don't rely on the trailer to ground the lights. I ALWAYS run another wire to ground the lights through the harness. LEDs rule!!
 
Ditto what Tom said. He provided this advice to me a few yeears back and ever since running a real ground wire through the harness and to each of the lights, I have had zero problems with my lights. Sure is nice to hook the trailer up for the season and have it work right off the bat verses spending countless hours fixing shorts and buying parts all over town.

I've never seen the need to submerge the trailer where the lights go under. I usually stop when the water gets to the trailer axel and slowly put the boat in the water. Maybe I lead the good life.

Mark W
 
I upgraded mine last summer to the oval LED lights but mounted them with marine goop into some 1 1/2" PVC but I also found that you can fit a small LED running light into the top of the PVC so I have perfect marker lights for backing the trailer into the water boat or no boat on the trailer.
 
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