Capt. Frank Miller
Active member
I came acrossa couple of Central Machinery Bandsaws for sale. Does anyone know if they will hold up for decoy making?
Central Machinery Bandsaw
- Thread starter Capt. Frank Miller
- Start date
Rutgers
Well-known member
I am under the impression that Central Machinery is not actually a manufacturer but just a name put on tools by Harbor Freight, and that models are constantly changing as they get better deals etc. Unless you have the opportunity to get it at an unbelievably low price, I would stay away. I looked at a 14" model a couple weeks ago when I was at Harbor Freight, and it seemed pretty light to me.
Bill McAdam
Active member
In light of what Rutgers said, I can't say your experience will be the same as mine, but I've had one for better than 5 years. Works fine.
John Augustine
Well-known member
I'm going to second what Bill said. I bought one at Harbor Freight about 5 years ago and it is very solid.
The only thing I've done is get rid of the cool blocks and replaced them with roller guides that I fabricated.
Buy some decent blades and you're in business. Having said that, all I really do with mine is cut out decoy
heads. John
The only thing I've done is get rid of the cool blocks and replaced them with roller guides that I fabricated.
Buy some decent blades and you're in business. Having said that, all I really do with mine is cut out decoy
heads. John
Bill McAdam
Active member
John.
When I set up my saw, they did have roller blocks available for it. I got them. They are pretty cheesy, but seem to do their job. I'd be interested in seeing what you set your saw up with.
When I set up my saw, they did have roller blocks available for it. I got them. They are pretty cheesy, but seem to do their job. I'd be interested in seeing what you set your saw up with.
John Augustine
Well-known member
Bill I,m going to try to figure the picture thing again. I,m going to check the
photo bucket deal so I hope to get back to you later!!
John
photo bucket deal so I hope to get back to you later!!
John
John Birmingham
Active member
John,
Email the photos to me and I'll post it on photobucket, I was looking at these saws today at Harbor Freight and look to be ok for $350. Did you put an extension on yours?
I would like to see what you guys purchased.
I will use it to cut head and rough out bodies.
john.birmingham@cushwake.com
Email the photos to me and I'll post it on photobucket, I was looking at these saws today at Harbor Freight and look to be ok for $350. Did you put an extension on yours?
I would like to see what you guys purchased.
I will use it to cut head and rough out bodies.
john.birmingham@cushwake.com
John Augustine
Well-known member
Hi John, I sent some pictures. I could not get the lower guide into focus but all I did was
remove the cool block holders and duplicate them with the rollers in their place. You will
notice that I am not a machinist but they work well. I am working on a riser at work but
have not needed it yet. All of my birds are black cork so I've done ok without it so far.
Hope they come through, John
remove the cool block holders and duplicate them with the rollers in their place. You will
notice that I am not a machinist but they work well. I am working on a riser at work but
have not needed it yet. All of my birds are black cork so I've done ok without it so far.
Hope they come through, John
John Birmingham
Active member
John Aug - Here are your photos...
Bill McAdam
Active member
OK.
Just as always, just when you extoll the virtues of your saw to some other guy, you find something messed up.
I bought and installed the riser block on my saw. Because of the way they implemented the castings, when you install the riser block, you lose about 3/4 inch between the inside of the casting (riser block) and the blade. What that resulted in was that I had to reduce the size of Willy's mallard pattern by 5% so that I could cut the "shoebox" to length when ripping a sheet into manageable blocks. If the riser block is not installed, you'd be able to wrk with the pattern at 100%, but the wider part of the flange comes above the table top when you install the riser block and it interferes. I guess you could artificially raise the top of the table somehow to get it above the flange when doing that step, but I guess it's not really worth it to get 1/2" in length on your deke. Just a friendly word of warning.
Just as always, just when you extoll the virtues of your saw to some other guy, you find something messed up.
I bought and installed the riser block on my saw. Because of the way they implemented the castings, when you install the riser block, you lose about 3/4 inch between the inside of the casting (riser block) and the blade. What that resulted in was that I had to reduce the size of Willy's mallard pattern by 5% so that I could cut the "shoebox" to length when ripping a sheet into manageable blocks. If the riser block is not installed, you'd be able to wrk with the pattern at 100%, but the wider part of the flange comes above the table top when you install the riser block and it interferes. I guess you could artificially raise the top of the table somehow to get it above the flange when doing that step, but I guess it's not really worth it to get 1/2" in length on your deke. Just a friendly word of warning.
Brad Wainscott
Active member
Love those red heads!!!
Bryan T. Girolami
Active member
I have what appears to be the exact same saw as John Birmingham. It is a Central Machinery saw with a 3/4 hp motor. I've had my saw for 4 or 5 years and have cut alot of heads and bodies with it. I didn't purchase a factory made riser block for it but had a friend machine one out of a block of delrin for me. The saw has suited me well and even when cutting through 5 inches of bass wood as long as I take it slow it seems to do it's job. Bonus was I got my saw in almost new condition for $150.00 off Craigslist.