coatings for non skid

Dave M

Dave M

Well-known member
While out fishing yesterday , i got to thinking about applying some sort of " non skid " treatment to the floor and deck on my cackler . I have a rubber mat that works great but me be anal about things when i return from a fishing trip or duck trip i like to rinse and reorganize things in the cockpit so next trip out there are no surprises when looking for things at 4 am . The mat is also a pain when i store the boat because it remains wet under it and needs to be hung out to dry . So my question is what do you guys use to nonskid the floors and decks of your boats ? Any help would be great .


Thanks

Dave M
 
I used Herculiner for the inside and on the deck I used Interlux Intergrip when I painted it and it has worked great. since then my buddy used the Intergrip when repainting the inside of his jonboat and has been happy with the results as well.
 
I have gone with the ultimate low tech approach. A good coat of paint and then while it is still wet cover it with silica sand like the sandblasters use. Nothing coarser, I've tried. Brush it off and paint again. If you don't believe me try a small patch that doesn't show. Good luck.
 
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Thanks guys ! I use silica sand when i built the boat but it is not really coarse enough , i was thinking that liner Cabelas sells any experience with that ?






Dave m
 
[font=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Traction Kote 400 is an antislip floor coating containing epoxy that cures to a hard, flat, textured finish. Designed for interior and exterior use on concrete, steel, wood, fiberglass, aluminum, tile, etc. Particularly effective anywhere water or other slippery conditions exist. Contains a synthetic grit with no sharp edges. Excellent for use on irregular shapes or anywhere "grit -tape" would not be feasible. Easy to use one part aerosol eliminates mixing, waste and clean-up.[/font]

Non skid marine deck coating is just one of many applications. Traction Kote 400 is packaged in convenient to use aerosol cans. Each can will cover approximately twenty six square feet.

Link to their website:

http://www.superior-industries.com/traction_kote_400_product_173.html

I'm not affiliated with this company. I ran accross this stuff and plan to use it on my MLB Chuck Huff. They have it in clear and it dries to a dull finish. Read the whole page on the link. Sure looks like good stuff.

Ron
 
I use 2 different liners in the boats I build. I use Rattleguard sprayin liner on the interior of the boats, this is a component system polyurethane/epoxy blend system with ground rubber that is sprayed using an undercoating gun. It dries to a rough hard finish, much like that of line-x or speedliner. Its pretty straightforward as far as the spray goes, there's a minimum of a 5hp compressor for spraying and can't be rolled. Also once mixed it begins to set in about 30-45 minutes depending on the ambient temperature. I've been very happy with it and have sprayed in at least 10 boats I've built plus 2 aluminum boats. It adheres extremely well to wood and epoxy.

Here's a shot of the floor in one of the boats I built...
DH2%20Drink%20and%20Shellholder%20Ad.jpg


One at night that I used to show the LED lights in action, it shows the texture a little better...
DH2%20LEDs%201.jpg


I've also started using another product for a non slip deck coating called Grizzly Grip. I would have used the Rattleguard, but mixing small batches of Rattleguard really isn't feasible. The Grizzly Grip is a single component that requires no hardener. It also has the ground rubber compound and dries to a finish much like Rhino Liner, a much more "squishy" rubber texture. I used it on the deck of the Hellcat last year as well as the 2 boats I just finished and have been pleased with it thus far. I will say that I used it on the DU raffle boat I built that was stored outside at my house for about 8 months and it began to fade. They sell a UV protectant but I would just paint it to match the boat, paint bonds to it extremely well especially if done with in a day or so of spraying. I also spray this using an undercoating gun but it can be rolled as well.

Here it is on the DU Duckhunter...
DU_DH_1.jpg


Here it is on the NFZ before painting...
NFZ24.jpg


nfz27.jpg


And after painting...
nfz14.jpg


nfz5.jpg


Prior to my discovery of these two products I used Rustoleum's Road Warrior roll-on bedliner. It worked well and is what is in my original boat that is now almost 5 years old. It is still going strong much to my amazement and constant abuse.

Hope this helps.

Brad
 
You can also buy boxes/bags of painter's pumice at your local hardware/paint store. It's got bigger grit than sand, but lighter weight, so that it stays suspended in paint well...once mixed. Pretty inexpensive for making your preferred paint non-skid. I've still got a box or two from an old project left over somewhere.
 
Brad, went out to ebay and was looking a spray bedliner kits. Most come with a spray gun, how hard is it to spray an even coat? Any tricks? How about cleaning the gun when your done?

Thanks
 
I carefully read through all of the links and googled a couple of Brad's suggestions. They all seem like good products. I actually have three seperate applications on three seperate boats that I'm considering. The spray on Trac 400 stuff seems best for one because it's small, confined and already well prepped.

Good thread...now lets get back to politics and burning chickens for chriminy sakes!
 
Now this is what we are suppose to be talking about here , alot of great ideas coming out , i have alot of resaerch to do i guess . Thanks alot guys for the ideas and input keep it coming !!!




Dave
 
http://boatbuildercentral.com/products.php?cat=62

Kiwi Grip is commonly used in big huge expensive yachts and other craft because it
1. sticks
2. CLEANS up easily
3. doesn't turn to an iceskating rink when dirty/muddy like several other spray on liners do.

The company has other colors, that link only points to common boating uses. Just something else to give you other ideas.

Care needs to be taken when selecting granule size in all these types of paints. Too high and they collect mud/muck and often can rub off, discoloring the surface and exposing the undersurface. Too low, no help in the non stick department.

Let us know what you find/use.
 
Brad, went out to ebay and was looking a spray bedliner kits. Most come with a spray gun, how hard is it to spray an even coat? Any tricks? How about cleaning the gun when your done?

Thanks
Click to expand...

Very easy with either the Rattleguard or the Grizzly Grip. I really don't know that I'd use the Grizzly Grip on the interior floor, it doesn't seem to adhere as toughly as the Rattleguard. Don't get me wrong, it still sticks but just not as aggressively as the Rattleguard. As for cleaning the gun, acetone cuts with just a little spray thru. I'd also have some acetone on hand in case you get a piece of the ground rubber caught in the gun which will cause a weak spray.

Brad
 
Mr. Morton,

I know you like a book... you're an old yankee who can't stand to spend a lot of money... so, I'll go halvies with you on this stuff. I could use a little on the bow and the rear sponsons for anti-slip.

Can you get the kind that can be painted over?

Thanks, Andrew
 
Andrew...either the Grizzly Grip or the Rattleguard can be painted over. Although, I don't ever paint over the Rattleguard because I use it on the floor of the boat, which in a short amount of time will be mud colored anyway.

As for the Grizzly Grip, I sprayed the decking on the NFZ that morning with the GG, another coat a couple of hours later, then painted it that afternoon with fantastic results. A small kit will go along way if you're just doing the floor of a boat. If you're just doing the decking I would suggest the GG which is sold by the quart and up.

I'm not a big fan of the floor epoxies that are water soluble. I've done a fair amount of reading on it and this sums it up best...

Epoxies are expensive, but there are ways to ‘water down' the epoxies with less expensive solvents an/or non-solvent thinners. These cheaper, diluted epoxies do not perform as well as the more expensive, unaltered epoxies. Diluted down epoxies are especially common with ‘floor epoxies' where pricing pressures are especially strong. To a large degree you do ‘get what you pay for'. A common non-solvent thinner is a chemical known as nonyl phenol. This chemical is sometimes used in small amounts to make epoxy mixing ratios easy whole numbers. However, cheap epoxies may contain large amounts of this inexpensive chemical. Check your epoxy's MSDS for references to nonyl phenol.
Click to expand...


Brad
 
Great stuff Brad... thanks for highlighting it.

Mr. Morton, we have to get this stuff. I'm going to put some on my deck, sides and sponsons.
 
Epoxies are expensive, but there are ways to ‘water down' the epoxies with less expensive solvents an/or non-solvent thinners. These cheaper, diluted epoxies do not perform as well as the more expensive, unaltered epoxies. Diluted down epoxies are especially common with ‘floor epoxies' where pricing pressures are especially strong. To a large degree you do ‘get what you pay for'. A common non-solvent thinner is a chemical known as nonyl phenol. This chemical is sometimes used in small amounts to make epoxy mixing ratios easy whole numbers. However, cheap epoxies may contain large amounts of this inexpensive chemical. Check your epoxy's MSDS for references to nonyl phenol.
Click to expand...


Brad
Click to expand...


Read info from West Systems epoxy and others, they will talk about thinning down epoxy. All of it is negative. Essentially what you have left after the solvent (often just acetone, xylene, toulene, they all work) is a net work of holes that are like a brittle coral reef. The bond is not flexible and have any give, it is just brittle and cracks very easily.

do what you want, but just realize as Brad said, there are trade offs and these are some of them.
 
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