deBunking the Boat?

M

Mike Trudel

Well-known member
Is there a product on the market to make carpeted trailer bunks slicker?

This is not a problem at deep ramps where the boat can be floated off, but it is sure a pane on shallower ramps. I looked in to plastics slides for the bunks, but they were not recommended for riveted boats. They have waxes for skis, just wondered if there was a product for trailer bunks?

Thanks. Mike
 
Mike,

I have used the plastic slides for years (roughly 10) on riveted hulls. The warning is that the rivets may hurt the slides. "Not recommended for use with nonfactory gel-coat, nonfactory bottom paint or riveted hulls (may chip slik). Glyde-Sliks also distribute the weight of the boat evenly to protect your hull. Suitable for use with aluminum, fiberglass and wood boats." The answer is simple, locate the bunks where the rivets won't slide across them. The one word of caution - DO NOT unfasten the boat before your ready to push it off. First season I used them I stopped sharply on the ramp and the boat slid off onto the cement. whoops! I haven't made that mistake again!

Scott

 
Hank, I think they came in 2' lengths and believing in overkill, I used two rows on each 2" X 6" X 8' bunk. Good thing because the bunks are pressure treated and it turns out that aluminum and pressure treated wood don't mix. Having the two rows keeps the boat well away from the wood. I can see daylight when siting up between the rows when the boat is sitting on the trailer.

View attachment trailersliks.jpg

Note the hull is clean (no rivets) inside the strakes.

View attachment sternontrailer.jpg

Scott
 
I have seen where people here have used Trex decking or similar product. Just screw it to the existing bunks. They are not strong enough by themselves. It will raise the boat a bit on the trailer and I know at some ramps 1 inch can mean a lot. You can alway rip it into thinner strips if that is an issue.
 
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