Deckmate screws?

Tom Barb

Tom Barb

Active member
Currently in the stage of my rebuild where I'm re screwing all the cedar planks down. Just wondering if anyone has used the decimate brand screws on their boats.

I know it's not the traditional method but beig a carpenter, I have good experience with these screws standing up to the weather. So I figured if they can last in the elements then why not under the glass on the boat?
 
I've been using them for years with out a problem, they're ceramic coated and going to be covered with epoxy so bob's yet uncle. Word of caution, if you get close to the end of a board, drill a pilot hole because of the diameter of the screw and the head.
 
Is the wood saturated with salt from years of use? Are the original fasteners steel?
 
I'm drilling pilot holes for each one just to be sure. I'm not sure how much salt the wood is saturated with. The previous owner had it sitting for some years. And as for the original fasteners, I imagine they are steel. The ones I can get to are rusted.

Picking up my white cedar boards this afternoon and hopefully will get some of the patching done this weekend. Seeing all the boats at tuckerton has got me thinking about this project non stop lol. Will post pics next time I make some progress.
 
I'm drilling pilot holes for each one just to be sure. I'm not sure how much salt the wood is saturated with. The previous owner had it sitting for some years. And as for the original fasteners, I imagine they are steel. The ones I can get to are rusted. .
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I personally wouldn't consider using deckmates and I have a full collection of 5# boxes of them. If the wood has salt in it the deckmates are going to sit in salt forever and if they start to rust they are a substantial screw and will end up being a substantial ball of rust. I can see them more so in new construction that is epoxy encapsulated inside and out.

Stainless is not that much more.
 
I would go with stainless your not coating the inside with epoxy and you will get water inside the boat and moisture aswell. I would be safe and go stainless I used about a box and a half on my whole BBSB total cost of maybe $20. If you have any questions let me know.
 
Chris, where did you get your stainless screws from?
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I'm not Chris, but I've bought boxes of 18-8 (304-ish) stainless deck screws from the big box stores. They are right by the Deckmates. Obviously any of the boat building supply stores have them as well at greater cost (Westmarine - ouch or Hamilton marine).
 
I got mine from my local hardware store (ace) I used #8 1 1/4 inch stainless I went around and predrilled counter sink holes everywhere I needed one then went back and put the screws in. I used 2 1/2 screws on the end where the planks went into the transom. I got a box of 100 screws for like $12 I think. Go stainless for sure never have to worry about it down the road.
 
Tom,where are you getting your cedar from?I'm starting a restore and need to find a supply of cedar.Any place in Jersey is fine!!Thanks
 
Tom,where are you getting your cedar from?I'm starting a restore and need to find a supply of cedar.Any place in Jersey is fine!!Thanks
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try shierer bros near atlantic city,,my spelling may be a bit off on the name
 
Ralph, I got my cedar from Medford cedar products right off of rt 70. They actually milled the tree down yesterday so it's pretty green. I'm going to let the boards dry for a few days.

My original planks are around 3/8 to 1/2 inch thick so I got them to plane them down to exactly half inch and I will sand from there.

Here are some pics. I asked for as clear as possible and they turned out pretty good.

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Depending on where you are, I also found a place in nesco called McCay wood products. He advertised in the New Jersey waterfowlers newsletter. The only reason I didn't use him is because I already had placed my order at Medford.

As for the screws, I'm going to use stainless. I will call around to te local hardware stores and try my luck but if not I might try scherers.
 
you know ideally the planks should have between say 10 and 16% moisture, a few days of dryin wont give you that, unless that cedar was logged a year ago maybe
 
I don't want to wait that long for these to dry lol. Is it a big problem installing them and then filling with wood flour and epoxy and glassing? I know they'll shrink some, but enough to really effect it?
 
I know they'll shrink some, but enough to really effect it?
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All depends on their current moisture content. Might be best if you could get in some where and have them kiln dried . Then you could use them with no worries.
 
They may warp as they dry. It depends on the grain, etc. You might be ahead to screw them, at least temporarily, in place.
I wouldn't use the epoxy, just lineseed oil or varnish, then paint. But that is just me.
 
You can't use linseed oil or varnish. You need to use epoxy and fiberglass. Its kind of a big deal cuz they might shrink and leave big gaps. Call around to some other guys that have cedar planks and mayne they will swap you for some planks that are dry. Other wise I would try to dry em out before use. If you put em on the boat and don't glass for a few weeks that will give em dry time too.
 
I was so excited just to get the wood I didn't even think about the moisture content. I'm going to call around to a few sawmills tomorrow and see if anyone has a kiln or to see if i can possibly swap out.

I don't know when I'm going to be glassing with duck season here so it prob won't be for a little while.

If I do find someone with a kiln, any idea how long it takes? And rough price?
 
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