Capt Rich Geminski
Well-known member
Saw a mushroom type anchor that had a concave inside like a real mushroom anchor. Any one know where to find a mold? Using muffin tin one's now, but want to go smaller.
Decoy anchor mold
- Thread starter Capt Rich Geminski
- Start date
Mike Rowinsky
Active member
[font=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Sorry, I didn't fully read the post. I'll look more closely next time.
Mike
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Rich is looking for the backside of the head to be concave, like a mushroom is typically... that way is pulls itself deeper as it is pulled on, kind of scoops. Rich, I don't know that I have ever seen that... how much weight are they?
Ray
Well-known member
The internet told me awhile back that a small convex based anchor can be molded from the bottom of a soda can. Seemed to me to be too light for anything other than a calm pond. However, it will be wide and using a long eye could allow for great tipping shovel action to hook up on the bottom.
Capt Rich Geminski
Well-known member
I'll try to get a pic... I have a hard time just staying on line...Dave is right about the shape...
Chris S in MD
Active member
Google frog tongue sinkers - they look like this are my go to in lieu of mushroom anchors
I bought a mold from this guy - http://shawncollinscustoms.net/ off e-bay
I bought a mold from this guy - http://shawncollinscustoms.net/ off e-bay
Ray
Well-known member
Thinking about the mushroom cap shaped weight, it would be really hard to get out of the mold if it was a split mold. If you used silicone it would peel back off the cap edge. Easy molding requires a positive edge and negative edges like a true mushroom cap can cause mold release problems.
If you did not care what the bottom of the weight looked like you could use the inside of a soda can to make a concaved weight and then drill holes for the eye. The middle would be pretty thin and the edges thick, with a flat bottom.
If you did not care what the bottom of the weight looked like you could use the inside of a soda can to make a concaved weight and then drill holes for the eye. The middle would be pretty thin and the edges thick, with a flat bottom.
I've not worked with lead, but have done some product designs with plastics on two part molds.
I think I've read everything, but in case this is redundant, my apologies....
1- you have the "female" tin already seasoned/release agent process down. I'm guessing you are inserting an eye or loop while the lead is still molten.
2- having a 2nd part "male" mold that would push down into the lead would give you the concave feature. You'd have to figure how much lip and how wide you want it.....
3-... but I would think a matching muffin pan would work if inserted on top of the lead. This would push the lead up the sides of the female tin receptacles.
4- this leaves drilling. from guys I know that have done their own Carolina rigs, drilling lead is not fun.....
5- could you drill and nail, from the top side, a nail peg in the bottom of each of the tins that is coming in from the top?
When you press the top (male) mold into the female mold, the nails in the bottom would peg the hole. The nails could be epoxyed from the top, and if all were the same length, it would set the depth of your concave shape the same. The variable would be how much lead you put in each of the female tins.
I think I've read everything, but in case this is redundant, my apologies....
1- you have the "female" tin already seasoned/release agent process down. I'm guessing you are inserting an eye or loop while the lead is still molten.
2- having a 2nd part "male" mold that would push down into the lead would give you the concave feature. You'd have to figure how much lip and how wide you want it.....
3-... but I would think a matching muffin pan would work if inserted on top of the lead. This would push the lead up the sides of the female tin receptacles.
4- this leaves drilling. from guys I know that have done their own Carolina rigs, drilling lead is not fun.....
5- could you drill and nail, from the top side, a nail peg in the bottom of each of the tins that is coming in from the top?
When you press the top (male) mold into the female mold, the nails in the bottom would peg the hole. The nails could be epoxyed from the top, and if all were the same length, it would set the depth of your concave shape the same. The variable would be how much lead you put in each of the female tins.
patrick mccarthy
Well-known member
Not a mold finished weights
http://hewittparts.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=41_43&products_id=162&zenid=e5d4cad6c2fcb30f9d80dd69c03ad135
http://hewittparts.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=41_43&products_id=162&zenid=e5d4cad6c2fcb30f9d80dd69c03ad135