Decoy Carving - Bandsaw a necessity?

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Blake Heller

Member
I am looking to make my first attempt at carving this winter. Although I have virtually every other power tool for work, I dont currently own a bandsaw. Is it possible to dive into carving without one? I just dont see any use for it for the type of work I do other than carving.

If it isnt possible, I may consider looking into one. I'm sure ill find other uses for it in the future. Any suggestions for a decent saw that wont break the bank?
 
There is no cut and dry answer. But no you do not need one, but would definitely help.

To dive deeper into the answer though it all depends on what medium you plan to use for carving and if you want to go for a particular style.

I started with foam which requires a hand saw and sandpaper, then used burlap and tile mastic to cover or used wood glue with sawdust to cover.

Moved on to make my own heads using basswood which I roughed shaped with hand saws then used a knife to get the profile better and then to a finished carved head.

Finally bought a 9" table top bandsaw which made cutting heads out to profile a breeze.

Have made a few birds by hatchet which is a old style way to make regional birds (Core Sound/Currituck) and finish with a rasp.

Have made one cork bird that I used handsaws to cut the profile. Have made several canvas birds that don't need a bandsaw but a jig saw would work to cut those out and then just add wire and canvas and a root head and good to go.

So if nothing else get a table top saw to cut the head out. Or can always go other routes to make different style birds. But this is my opinion. I want a 14" bandsaw but just don't have the space or funds for one at this moment.

If there is a specific medium or style you want to go for then just let us know and can go into more details for what will work with what you got.
 
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I think a bandsaw would be a good addition to your power tools. My father in law carved in the 50-60s with no power tools, hatchet and hand tools. A sears bandsaw was his best addition, years later we bought him a foredom with some roughing burrs.
Go to you tube and see what great tool it is. Look used, as there are many out there for a decent price.
 
Good morning, Blake~


I have to concur - it's the most important machine in my shop for decoys. You do not need top-of-the-line, but:


~ it should be able to saw through at least 8 inches of stock for bodies
~ get good blades



Welcome to the club!


SJS

 
Blake, why don't you decide what medium you want to make decoys from. After reaching this conclusion, buy one or two pre-cut decoy kits and take these to completion. Another option would be to buy two pre-cut birds from two different mediums and work each of them up to determine which medium you like working with. Once you have completed one or a couple of decoys, you should have reached a point where you can determine whether decoy carving is personally enjoyable or not. IF you like the process and the end result, THEN it would be the time to decide whether a bandsaw purchase is warranted.

I started carving by hand in wood (cedar), found that I was allergic to it after making four birds by hand. I switched to black cork, eventually buying a bandsaw. I got tired of the mess associated with black cork decoy construction after around a hundred birds, and started carving heads to mount on foam bodies. Then I switched to tan cork bodies and basswood or tupelo heads.




















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Thank you all for your thoughts,

I think I would like to start with cork bodies with basswood heads and wood bottom boards. Cork seems like an easier product to work with than full wood bodies but still produces a high quality gunning decoy.

Buying the pre-shaped cutouts is probably my best bet just to see if it sticks. I?ve seen them available at ?The Duck Blind.?

Are there any beginner tools that you all would recommend?
 
Steve covered bases.
Stay focused when using it. I do a ton of carving with the bandsaw--cutting off edges, for me, anyway, saves time, and being a lefty, no one ever told me I COULDN'T do it. Find your own path--Eventually, you will find it an invaluable tool,[;)]
 
Try before you buy. I checked your profile and see it isn?t filled in. Were you local to me, I would have sent you a pm invite to use my saw.
 
You can work black cork easily with Stanley Sureform rasps-one flat short, a long convex (rounded) will also come with a long flat blade. Tan cork, due to its internal binder, is a bit more difficult to work with these. The Duck Blind sells tan cork cut-out kits. I don't know whether McDonald offers black cork. I use 80 grit pads as my final shaping tool for cork bodies. Tan cork enables you to put more feather and wing detail in the bodies you produce. With time, you can achieve the same thing with black cork, particularly if it is composed of nearly uniform cork pieces, something I have found that the Duck Blind black cork offers pretty consistently. I seal black cork birds with thinned epoxy, which not only waterproofs them but helps to retain the details.View attachment Wick's head style+scaup+hens1.jpeg
View attachment DSC02719.JPG

These are made from black cork with basswood heads and pine bottom boards. This is about as much detail as you can get to remain in black cork via shaping and hand sanding the feather group boarders on the primaries. Sealed with spar varnish, the primary tips would likely not hold-up through time. Epoxy enhances the material's strength considerably, without adding much additional weight. Cork birds approximate the weight of live birds quite closely.
 
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Tod,

Thanks for your generosity. I?m in western Suffolk county, NY. I haven?t purchased any materials yet. Going to try to restore some old LL beans first.
 
Blake Heller said:
Tod,

Thanks for your generosity. I?m in western Suffolk county, NY. I haven?t purchased any materials yet. Going to try to restore some old LL beans first.
Click to expand...

A haul from me in SW CT, BUT there have got to be guys out there set up to give you a hand with a saw. If you ever are in the neighborhood (Newtown, CT), I'd be happy to let you have at it to get as many bodies and heads banged out as you need. I got started bumming saw time on a bandsaw.
 

Blake,

You were given plenty of good advice.

Most of us began carving the same way, without a bandsaw.

Tod's offer is the way many of us went. A fellow caver, or friend with a bandsaw either cut out the projects we wanted to do, or allowed us use of their bandsaw.

If you decide that decoy carving/making is something you enjoy, and are drawn deeper into then a bandsaw is a must.

As already stated it need not be top of the line. My Sears bandsaw has been doing the J-O-B since 1984. There are very few power tools in my small shop, and the ones there have become essential.


I do not know about your area, but in our area there are/were many wood workers. Estate sales, auctions, garage sales, etc., always seem to offer wood working power tools. Used, but not abused bandsaws will do.

Welcome to the the Decoy Carving/Making community, and as already shown, very generous and knowledgeable folks.


Best regards
Vince
 
Amen on the Craftsman..One of my first shop additions and I found I could do various things as a lefty that dexters could or would not try. Practice makes better--I have an old Sears that has had a few motors and bearings, and it has served me quite well, thank you. That and a Foredom Tool and you can have a great addiction!
 
A lot of useful information here. Its getting me pretty excited to start carving!

Hopefully I have some updates later this winter.
 
A bandsaw is a great tool to have for decoy carving, mine I bought off Craigslist for $100.00 14" ridged
l added a riser block months latter.
Here's a link to a video of a NJ carver using a hatchet.
Now keep in mind I think it's possible NJ, eastern shore,LI decoy carvers have an extra decoy carving gene or DNA. A few simple tools passion and craftsmanship and they make amazing decoys.
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=nWioFOrllhI
 
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