Devlin Builders - Boarding Ladders?

Dave Diefenderfer

Dave Diefenderfer

Well-known member
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One of the items on my mind for the completion of my Scaup transformation is installation of a boarding ladder in the event that someone goes over. Keep in mind, I did not build this hull, the sponsoons are supposed to be half filled with foam, and are inside a sealed chamber. I don't anticipate any additional supports were added outside what the plans suggested.

I have the thought to access the chambers for additional storage, though I would bet the inside of the chambers is not sealed yet.

John Bourbon installed a 2 step folding ladder which would be a good choice for me too. Though he had access inside and could through bolt.


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What I am considering is bolting the ladder to a couple of 3/16" thick pieces of aluminum, maybe 4 inches wide and a foot or so tall (height of the sponsoon). Then 5200 and screw that to the hull. The screws would be going only into the plywood, which should may be 3/4", or as little as 3/8". I know from trying to remove some deck hardware on my BBSB bedded in 5200, that that bond alone might be more than sufficient. Though having a heavy wet hunter can be a significant load.

What do you think? Any better ideas with what I have? If I was building this, it would be through bolted and backing plates added to the build. I hate to compromise the foam compartments and excavate foam as it will be messy replacing it, even in warmer weather.


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Patrick, I hate to have a separate ladder that I need to store and install.... a safety ladder needs to be 100% accessible, without fail, in my mind.
 
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Dave Diefenderfer said:
What I am considering is bolting the ladder to a couple of 3/16" thick pieces of aluminum, maybe 4 inches wide and a foot or so tall (height of the sponsoon). Then 5200 and screw that to the hull. The screws would be going only into the plywood, which should may be 3/4", or as little as 3/8". I know from trying to remove some deck hardware on my BBSB bedded in 5200, that that bond alone might be more than sufficient. Though having a heavy wet hunter can be a significant load.
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To expand on your idea. I drew a quick sketch. The sketch depicts one large plate but could be two individual straps. The upper ends are either bent or welded such that the ends rest on top of the upper deck. Thus the load is bearing down on the deck. The screws into the upper deck would be under shear load, rather than "pullout load". Obviously the screws into the transom would still be subject to "pullout load".

Note, if bent as drawn the ends will not run true bow to stern but run off at an angle. Thus the reason for the full radius to camouflage this. A welded joint could be cut as needed. I realize the flat aluminum will need some bedding to conform to the radius of the deck even with the bend lines being adjusted as needed.

I'd suggest to cut out a cardboard pattern and play with it to see if something like this will work for you.



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Good morning, Dave & Dave~


I had the very same idea - to have some purchase on the deck itself. And, I like the 2 straps - each maybe 3 inches wide - instead of one large plate. I might run each one forward for about 6 inches so at least 2 screws (and more 5200) would hold it down onto the deck.



On the other hand - having excavated more than a few cubic yards (exaggeration?) of flotation foam over the years and vessels - I would open up the chamber, remove all existing foam, through-bolt with backing plates, re-foam, then close the chamber(s) with 6-inch Beckson deck plates.


https://shop.hamiltonmarine.com/products/deck-plate-6--white-screw-in-3552.html?gclid=CjwKCAiA__HvBRACEiwAbViuU1tg2IHUOkEZNO1HpfFoa7epiN2wSqFHpmEJCUoIAA8BeyT_buuPRxoCvJkQAvD_BwE


One other benefit of the excavation approach is that it lets you know what's going on inside the chamber. If you take that approach, I would re-foam with the boat standing on its tail and pour the new 2-pound foam in several shallow "lifts". And, you might want to add a nice 6-inch deck cleat in either corner....


All the best,


SJS





 
Id access the sealed sponsons. From my experience there is probably water or at least condensation inside. I Have seen it occur just from temperature changes. Id probably cut an access port on top and seal with a hatch cover. Then you can bolt your ladder wherever needed
 
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Holes below the water line on a wooden boat give me the heebie jeebies. especially on something designed to bear load from a guy stepping on and off a few hundred times a season.

Following, because this would be really nice sometimes. I won't be 29 forever, and when the waders are frozen and full of too many layers I'm not quite as "flexy"

When I've thought about this, I thought about boarding from the front with a ladder that flips over and hits the lakebed beneath the boat to support it some on both sides, but that seems cumbersome at best.


Paul
 
My 2 cents worth- if screwed only, if it fails, it will fail at the worst possible time, possibly in a life threatening situation. I'd bolt it on
 
jode hillman said:
I?d access the sealed sponsons. From my experience there is probably water or at least condensation inside. I?ve seen it occur just from temperature changes. I?d probably cut an access port on top and seal with a hatch cover. Then you can bolt your ladder wherever needed.
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Yep, so many reasons for access. Over the years there has been ample evidence of the need to be able to get in there and check things out as well as plenty of failures of sealed chambers.
 
My flotation compartments are sealed and have been for over 18 years. The thought of water trapped by repeated condensation is worrisome and at some point I'm going to cut access holes to let them breathe. Hopefully they won't be soaked when I do. Future builds will have a means of access from the start.

Eric
 
Eric Patterson said:
My flotation compartments are sealed and have been for over 18 years. The thought of water trapped by repeated condensation is worrisome and at some point I'm going to cut access holes to let them breathe. Hopefully they won't be soaked when I do. Future builds will have a means of access from the start.

Eric
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OK,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,, riddle me this.

(A) the compartment is sealed.
(B) sealed and filled with foam or not filled with foam, there will always be some air space.
(C) said air space was sealed at let's assume 60% humidity, the day it was sealed.

How is there going to be any water "build up" by repeated condensation? Where would the additional moisture come from? There is no air exchange to bring in additional moisture. Are you thinking there is moisture migration within the plywood? (which has been sealed as well as having multiple glues layers, effectively sealing each individual layer)
 
Dave

I don't have an answer for you other than it is possible there could be a small leak. I mounted wood blocks on the inside that I sink the fasteners into. What if when I drilled the pilot holes I accidently went all the way through the block? Not saying I did but it is that kind of thing that makes me afraid there might be a pathway I don't know about.

Eric
 
Huntindave McCann said:
Eric Patterson said:
My flotation compartments are sealed and have been for over 18 years. The thought of water trapped by repeated condensation is worrisome and at some point I'm going to cut access holes to let them breathe. Hopefully they won't be soaked when I do. Future builds will have a means of access from the start.

Eric
Click to expand...

OK,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,, riddle me this.

(A) the compartment is sealed.
(B) sealed and filled with foam or not filled with foam, there will always be some air space.
(C) said air space was sealed at let's assume 60% humidity, the day it was sealed.

How is there going to be any water "build up" by repeated condensation? Where would the additional moisture come from? There is no air exchange to bring in additional moisture. Are you thinking there is moisture migration within the plywood? (which has been sealed as well as having multiple glues layers, effectively sealing each individual layer)
Click to expand...

Dave, I do not have the scientific answer. I just know out of 5 boats I have owned or rehabbed by several builders ( including myself)
Every sealed compartment has gotten some sort of water in it. Wether it?s condensation, fasteners wicking moisture, of a leak, everyone has pulled moisture from somewhere.

I am not a fan of foam for flotation anymore. A airtight compartment yes, butvwith a hatch to allow access. I come to believe nothing can be really sealed. Look at the titanic, lol.

Water, freezing temperatures and the summer heat makes wood move. Tiny gaps are created. That is the reality of wood ( and wood composite) boats. Maintenance is a constant reality, hence my leaning towards hatch access
 
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