Do you trailer an outboard on your BBSB?

gdriscoll

gdriscoll

New member
I currently do not trailer with my engines on. The mud motor is a PIA to get on/off at ramp. I was thinking of beefing up the transom so I could trailer my 15hp outboard and 7.5hp mud motor.
Beefing up....adding 3/4" marine plywood and re-glassing.

I have a 1996 Fricke Box and a 1970s S. Hunt box.

Any thoughts/opinions would be appreciated.
Gregg
 
This is how my motor goes down the road. I tilt it up and use a support just for the extra road clearance. Otherwise the motor skeg would be too close to the surface of the road.


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I always leave my 15hp on the boat. I leave it in the down position and when I get to the ramp I pick it up so it won't scrape the skeg on the bottom, I really have no choice since my outboard is electric start and is tied into the panel box. I have had a few sneakboxes in my lifetime and never have had a problem with leaving it on. You may want to investigate one of the devices sold in cabela's, Bass pro that attach to the shaft of the motor and to your trailer to take some of the weight off of the transome.
 
Thanks guys. The Fricke box has a cedar transom. I never felt comfortable with an 85# engine bouncing on the back. I will look into the support system.
 
I rebuilt a Sam Hunt a couple years ago, you can find my thread if you search....it was built and used as a sail/row before I got it. I repaired all the rot and glassed it. I added a 2" mahogany motorboard, beefed up/backed inside with Azek decking. I trailer with my 15hp 2-stroke Yamaha, and use a transom saver as well. Rock solid, but I expect the transom saver is the key.
 
If you are concerned about the integrity of the motorboard then I would replace it with mahogany or sandwiched marine ply encapsulated in epoxy and add a fifth bolt.

I trailer my Fricke with the 15 yamaha attached but I crawl inside the boat every summer and make sure all the bolts are snug, etc.
 
Craig,
I am concerned about the cedar transom holding up to the jackhammer effect of a bouncing engine. My friends and I have always just transported our boats without the engines on. The mudmotor is more cumbersome than a 15hp outboard and is a PIA to take on/off. As others have suggested, using the transom saver, should do the trick. thanks for the thoughts.
 
I have enough clearance on my trailer to keep the engine all the way down but I do bungee it so that it cannot move or bounce around. The extra length and forces involved with a mud motor might make things different though.

There are guys I know that do remove their engines for long distance trailering, certainly better for peace of mind.
 
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I don't have a BBSB but the transom saver like Dave has keeps the motor from bouncing around and moves the weight closer to the transom so there is less stress on it when on the trailer. I wouldn't trailer my boat without one.
 
I would be hesitant to trailer with the motor hanging on the back. A bunch of years ago I had a cedar transom snap of while trailering with outboard attached.
 
Make up a new Motor board with a piece of 3 quarter & half in marine plywood glued together . add the motor clamp rings to the front of the motor plate , plus strap a piece of bungee cord across the lower unit & you will never have a problem.
 
Thanks for everyone's input. The transom saver sounds like a must. It is hard to find a transom saver for a mud motor. I am going to make a custom one. Because I am paranoid...In addition, this weekend I added 3/4" marine plywood to the cedar transom and re-glassed. I going with a mini jackplate for the mud-motor mount. Not traditional but it will give me the most piece of mind on those pot hole filled North Al. dirt roads.
 
Mini jacker is what I had to go with on my 14' don warren, for the original one was to narrow & the beaver tail just spins around for transport. My 12' kit from don came with just a piece of 3/4" ply & it held up well till I tried a 15 four stroke but by then he made the glass mounts & that's the ticket
 
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