Fiberglass cracked!!!

Gary F

Gary F

Member
Guys there is a two spots on the inside of my TDB 14ft Classic in the rear were the flotation stuff
is put in in the rear of the boat. Question is there a fiberglass or patch material that can be used
to repair this in cooler weather!!! No access to heated garage. It is about 6" up off the floor so water
getting in there isn't a problem just want to get it taken care of before the season opens next weekend.
Wish i had spotted it when the weather was warm!!!
 
Space heaters! I had to make a repair last year just as season was opening and used a couple Mr. Buddy heaters and some tarps to make a heated area instead of the garage. Just don't get to close!
 
Rick i don't believe it has. It happened over the summer i believe and the crack is probably more like
8 to 9" off the floor so its not like it is at floor level. Plus the boat does not get water in it. It is
covered at all times with the fiberglass cover that comes with these boats. I just want to fix it so
if we are hunting on rainy days that it does not get wet.
 
Go to the US Composites website. They have different hardeners for different situations....AND, I bet that if you glass tape over the cracks and put the boat cover on, it will get plenty warm inside the boat if it's parked in the sun
 
That 2 part foam is known for sucking water out of the air, i would check as best you can before patching.As far as glassing in the cold imo you dont need any special hardeners. I glass outside in the snow if needbe,just add heat.Small spots are easy to heat up, such is the case here from what i get out of it. I cant understand why people still use this expantion foam in a boat. Ive tore out so much of it, Id check your floor also. Just from past work done. Good luck with it and i hope you get things patched up in time. shoot em in the lips!!
 
Gary,
to test the floatation foam, you have to repair a crack anyway, so drill a 3/4" hole and sharpen the end of a piece of 1/2 copper pipe and try to extract some foam to see if it's wet. If not, just apply the glass tape and glass over.
 
scott i dug out alot of the saturated foam and sometimes its hard to replace. No foam is better than wet foam... When i have a choice i like a closed cell foam board or a divinycell . Strength and flotation in one. Ive been using divinycell H80 half inch core in my decks and its been working good. Keeps the weight down and is solid strong. Sandwitched between a few layers of once and a half and you can walk on it strong... and it will not soak up water .
 
Rick,

Thank you for the info. Just to see if I understand you, you fill your flotation chambers with fitted sheets of closed cell foam and the sheets don't absorb water over time? Or you don't put additional flotation under the flooring other than using the divinycell H80 to make the floor?

Scott
 
I am in the midst of the same thing with the same model boat, I suggest if you are doing a repair anyway, drill a 1/4 inch diameter hole on the front side of the pod near the floor and drop the tongue down to the ground as this will allow water to run toward the front of the pod. Watch the drill bit on the way out to see if it is wet.
 
Gary,
if the boat is glass and is not built with wood I suspect it was built with polyester resin or maybe vinylester. You are best served by repairing an all glass part with a resin that matches. Chopped strand matt with some cloth if it is an inside corner for the repair fabric. The matt gives some bulk on the inside and allows you to sand and fair over the cloth without cutting the strands of the cloth in the middle of the layup.

MEK can be added in a higher ratio to help with the lower temp cure and a regular heat lamp will give local temp to speed the reaction.
http://www.bottompaintstore.com/Marine-Vinyl-Ester-Resin-QT-8110P-QT.htm

http://www.bottompaintstore.com/Fib...Mat-75-OZ-x-50-Wide-1-Yard-9105-1-yd-pack.htm
 
Gary

If you have a cover, try a halogen work light under there pointed at the area. They put out an amazing amount of heat.

Chuck
 
Scott i build my floatation into my boat rather than add it after.Ive been putting the h80into the deck/topside,witch is for strength and boyancy.I havent sunk one to test,but i want to just to see.Not sure how much a sq ft will float so ive been overkilling it to be safe.A test will show close with a bit of math. Ill do a test and post my find!
 
Rick,

Thanks for the reply, I look forward to the report from your trial. I assume it will wait for warmer water?

Scott
 
Guys there is a two spots on the inside of my TDB 14ft Classic in the rear were the flotation stuff
is put in in the rear of the boat.
Click to expand...
Gary, Tryng to picture this. Are you talking abpout cracks in the inside glass material over the stern flotation or on the port & starboard hull? If the former, I'd just cover them with some Marine-Tex and not worry about it. Pic???
 
MLBob,
The crack is over the inside glass material over the stern flotation about 8 to 9" up off the floor of
the inside of the boat in the rear were the gas tank fits in by the drain plug.
 
So I'm assuming this is cosmetic and not at all structural. I'd go with the Marine-Tex if your concern is just keeping rainwater out.
 
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