RLLigman said:
Tom, you did a really nice job setting the tracks for the decoy curtain fabrication, actually better than the Maine builds. I also really like the camo paint pattern as well, both the design and execution.. Olsen uses a too green gelcoat on their new boats. If you order a dog ladder via Olsen Marine I would encourage you to apply the aluminum core trim that lines the outside edge of the hard-top cover...just a little added protection against getting a nasty nick or cut on your retriever's feet or legs as they attempt to find solid footing. I put some closed cell pipe insulation on the pads that rest against the boat. I hang mine up forward off the gap between the side and bow blind panels so the dog can move from there to the forward retriever pad via ingress. This enables you to drain some water back over the side, rather than add to the water build-up inside.
From what we have seen thus far, the migration hasn't even started yet. Geese and cranes are moving well. Thursday PM was the big pulse for geese sliding down the Lake Michigan coast into Wisconsin.
Tom Kondrk used a Tohatsu on his personal TDB, did this one come with the boat, or did you pick it up.
Thanks Rick, I couldn't have done any of this without your insight ... both in these pages and via PM. I ended up retrofitting an Avery Truck ramp for the dog boarding ladder. It has a small piece of aluminum angle at the top that mates perfectly with the anchor chock on the starboard stern. A bungee around the ramp, secured by the grab handle and the outboard trim pin holes and it's locked in place pretty solidly. The legs (bottom) will sink into the muck pretty well I figure. Bonus - folds up flat and stores in the front compartment perfectly!. In all my searching for "TDB dog ladder", I haven't found anything that comes close to working this good, with storage options taken care of. Banjo has been flying up and down it ... he's all puppy, but a tank (70# at 7 months) ... ramp hold up well to his exuberance. I'll get a pic or two posted with it in place soon. Here's a couple stock images:
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It came with an old POS 2-stroke that didn't run, and had the power trim/tilt removed. Compression check was poor, so I bought the Tohatsu after a lot of research. Basically all Merc 4-strokes 50hp and less are rebadged Tohatsu's. Same with Evinrudes 15hp and less. Tohatsu is popular everywhere in the world except here. The fact that it's $2K less than a Honda, and $1.3k less than a Yammy sold me on it. I think it'll be a great motor ... gobs of power.
I got myself up in that bow storage section and drilled/mounted a SS eye-bolt. From there I hog-ringed three separate sections of 1/4" shock cord. On the rail at the front of the storage area, I added three shock cord buttons:
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then stretched the shock cord a little, hog-ringed loops in the ends. Works great for holding down the chairs, dog ramp, empty decoy bags.
I've got a friend sewing/modifying a blind panel so I can have a good rain/cover roof permanently. I've got the front, back & one side of the blind grassed in good with killerweed. I should get the blind/roof back tonight, so I'll start the last section then. Waiting on some 1" OD aluminum rod, and some jaw slides and outside ends ... this will have the extended roof come up 17" in the back before I take it over the top of the blind. My 6'3" height is all torso, and I stick out the top of the blind like a pecker in a ... well, I stick out. At 17" up I'll have a pocket for the aluminum tube, and will anchor it to the "top" of the blind with the jaw slide/outside ends ... and 16" pieces of 1" tubing each end. I'm thinking I'll be able to rotate these connections to make a nice angle in the back so it's not so squared off. From there, I'll be modifying Mr. Furia's design for a flip top with PVC. Except I'll space two crossbars across the top instead of the one for a 14' TDB.
Everything sounds good on paper. Just need the bar stock to get after it!