Foam Decoy making?
- Thread starter Tom K
- Start date
There is a working decoys website, I will try to find the link. Tons of information on their.
Basically, you have two types of foam: EPS and 2-part.
EPS is the expandable foam beads, you put the beads in the form, boil the mold and out pops a decoys.
Wash them with soapy water, then paint. Or coat with burlap & mastic and then paint.
2-Part foam is mixed from two parts in the proper ratio, then poured into the mold, the mold is sealedd and when it cures, out pops a hard as rock decoy. Well, it pops out if you used a proper mold release. Then you have to figure out how to get the release agent off so you can paint. That is the tricky part of 2-part.
Another method is to cut out EPS foam blocks from foam you find in the marsh, like I did during the oil spill. Cut, shape, burlap and paint. I did not add a bottom board, but if I do more, I will to make keel and head attachment stronger.
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Basically, you have two types of foam: EPS and 2-part.
EPS is the expandable foam beads, you put the beads in the form, boil the mold and out pops a decoys.
Wash them with soapy water, then paint. Or coat with burlap & mastic and then paint.
2-Part foam is mixed from two parts in the proper ratio, then poured into the mold, the mold is sealedd and when it cures, out pops a hard as rock decoy. Well, it pops out if you used a proper mold release. Then you have to figure out how to get the release agent off so you can paint. That is the tricky part of 2-part.
Another method is to cut out EPS foam blocks from foam you find in the marsh, like I did during the oil spill. Cut, shape, burlap and paint. I did not add a bottom board, but if I do more, I will to make keel and head attachment stronger.
[inline BoomInsert1.jpg ]
[inline 1stDznFoamers2.jpg ]
[inline 1stFoamerA.jpg ]
View attachment 1stDznFoamers2.jpg
View attachment BoomInsert1.jpg
View attachment 1stFoamerA.jpg
Chuck J
Well-known member
Hey Dennis, thanks for posting that link...I'd never heard of it (insert strategic punctuation in the form of a smiley face for those with no sense of humor here)
Really Carl, thanks for posting up your own experiences with foam. Been meaning to ask you if you wanted to do a pictorial of your foam endevors, I'd add it to the Carvers Corner.
Best
Chuck
Scott Farris
Well-known member
Phil Nowack
Well-known member
Urethane Decoy Making Instructions
The next step is to wax the mold. You will need to use 100% carnauba wax. Wax both halves. Be careful as to not over wax, as this will cause the pulling process to be more difficult. A light film is more than adequate.
At this point pour 7/8 – 1 cup of part A into a mixing container. (If making heads 3/4 oz)
Then pour an equal amount of part B into the same container.
Use a high speed drill to with a mixing attachment, and mix for 1 – 2 minutes.
NOTE: Once the 2 parts are mixed, you only have about 4 minutes until it starts to expand.
Now pour the mix into the base of the mold.
Then clamp or bolt the top and bottom of the mold together. I use a cordless drill with a socket attachment and a box end wrench to speed this process. At this point you should check to make sure the vent holes are clear of obstructions. If air is not able to escape, the decoy will not turn out and the mold could possibly crack.
Wait 20-25 minutes then unclamp the mold. The decoy almost always stays in the bottom portion of the mold. I flip it over and hit the bottom of the mold with a hammer, to break any bonds. I then flip the mold over and pull upward on the front of the decoy.
NOTE: After 1 hour in the mold, the longer the decoy sits, the more difficult it becomes to pull the decoy. If you plan to make more decoys at this time, repeat the process; omitting the heating of the mold. You must sand or remove the wax from the foam before you paint for good adhesion.
To start the molding of 2 part urethane, take a propane torch and heat up the mold. I judge the temperature by touching the inside of the mold. If it is warm to the touch, it is warm enough. Do this to both halves. If the mold is cold, the foam will not expand. You can also warm the mold up in the oven if you so choose. The next step is to wax the mold. You will need to use 100% carnauba wax. Wax both halves. Be careful as to not over wax, as this will cause the pulling process to be more difficult. A light film is more than adequate.
At this point pour 7/8 – 1 cup of part A into a mixing container. (If making heads 3/4 oz)
Then pour an equal amount of part B into the same container.
Use a high speed drill to with a mixing attachment, and mix for 1 – 2 minutes.
NOTE: Once the 2 parts are mixed, you only have about 4 minutes until it starts to expand.
Now pour the mix into the base of the mold.
Then clamp or bolt the top and bottom of the mold together. I use a cordless drill with a socket attachment and a box end wrench to speed this process. At this point you should check to make sure the vent holes are clear of obstructions. If air is not able to escape, the decoy will not turn out and the mold could possibly crack.
Wait 20-25 minutes then unclamp the mold. The decoy almost always stays in the bottom portion of the mold. I flip it over and hit the bottom of the mold with a hammer, to break any bonds. I then flip the mold over and pull upward on the front of the decoy.
NOTE: After 1 hour in the mold, the longer the decoy sits, the more difficult it becomes to pull the decoy. If you plan to make more decoys at this time, repeat the process; omitting the heating of the mold. You must sand or remove the wax from the foam before you paint for good adhesion.
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Phil Nowack
Well-known member
Phil Nowack
Well-known member
I don't put anything in the bills... only 2 or 3 have broken over the last 7 years. I use 5 # on. The bodies and 8# on the heads
Phil Nowack
Well-known member
Not sure about the freight or crossing the boarder... but I get mine from www.uscomposites.com. To get 5# you have to buy 5 gallons of A and 5 of part B. I get 5 dozen decoys out of that.
Phil Nowack
Well-known member
I say 2 part urethane. You don't have to heat it, or burlap it. As for strength.... Did you see the picture of my 3/4 diesel on top of a decoy? The eps is not anywhere close to being as strong... IMHO
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Derek and Xena
Active member
Now that's what I'm talkin' about Scott! Finally someone showed that there is more than just molds with pour foam or eps beads! Personally, I now prefer the blue or pink sheets of foam insulation and a dremel!!!
Carving your own foamers is quite fun and as Scott said, they are entirely your own! I'm definitely not an artist and I made some huntable decoys on my first attempt. Once you cut out your pattern it's really just a matter of rounding off all the corners and making it look decent. You can take it as far as you want but a real basic shape and paint job will hunt just fine!
Carving your own foamers is quite fun and as Scott said, they are entirely your own! I'm definitely not an artist and I made some huntable decoys on my first attempt. Once you cut out your pattern it's really just a matter of rounding off all the corners and making it look decent. You can take it as far as you want but a real basic shape and paint job will hunt just fine!
Phil Nowack
Well-known member
Great looking birds Scott, and D&X. D&X... How many birds do you get out of a 4x8 sheet of the pink foam?
Derek and Xena
Active member
That really depends on the size of your patterns. You should be able to get at least a dozen standard size duck bodies and heads out of a sheet. Just take the square size of your pattern, say, 9"x16", and figure out how many you can get out of a sheet. Remember, the bodies take two patterns that you glue together to get your 4" of height, and the sandwich heads also take two patterns, one on either side of the hardboard. With geese you would have to glue 3 pieces together to get 6" of heigth, etc....