Food Plot Preparation Question

Eric Patterson

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Staff member
I've got an 8 acre field to plant for next duck season (outlined in yellow in the below pic). It is about dry now so the plan is to get the tractor in there bush hog the tall grass, spray Roundup, break the soil, fertilize/lime, and plant millet. My question is for a food plot should I use a moldboard turning plow to roll the grass under, or should I just disk the surface. I hear conflicting advice. Some say plowing is needed while others say for food plots disking and cultipacking is best. I don't know the last time the soil was turned or how packed it is. Any advice?

Eric


OldRiverRd.jpg

 
I'm not familiar with planting millet under those conditions, but I have planted a lot of grasses at work. Have you considered no-till? If you're mowing and spraying you ought to have good control over the competition for a while. Tillage is an additional cost and often brings a lot of weed seeds up that will then germinate.

However in a wetland setting, those "weeds" may be good food for the ducks as well. Also if the site is really bumpy and hummocky, you may be better off with tillage.

Just some things to think about.
 
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John

I have access to a broadcast spreader. I don't know anyone with a no-till planter I can borrow. It is something to look into though so thanks for suggesting it.

Eric
 
I work for a Soil and Water Conservation District and several of the districts around here have no-till drills for rent.

Millet seed is similar to alfalfa seed in size, so a drill used for hay seedings should work. I've heard that some people have planted grass with grain drills as well, but it may be harder to control the seeding rate with a grain drill.
 
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Spray, disc, fertilize, broadcast, cultipack or harrow/drag.


Mark, sounds like maybe you've done this a time or twenty.

John, never occurred to me I could rent a drill from a gov agency. Thanks for the tip.
 
Eric,

I have had really good luck with millet the last few years. We have been planting jap millet and after the draw down all we have done is sprayed and broadcasted on moist soil. Here is a link I was given a few years ago when I had questions too.

http://el.erdc.usace.army.mil/elpubs/pdf/EL89_13.pdf

Neil
 
Neil

Thanks for the link. That has a lot of useful info. I had to laugh about the report being "unclassified." As if someone would suspect the report was "TOP SECRET" were it not marked otherwise.
 
Eric,

Mark's advice sounds best. Plowing ground like this may open a can worms you don't want. Some ground appears dry until you find a wet spot. Without knowing local soil codiotons, etc. It is hard to say for sure. You might even be able to skip the disking. But, you will probably get a better stand disking. Millet has a reputation of doing pretty good as long as it has enough moisture to germinate.


I wonder if you could plant some corn or sorghum in the middle that would give a little more cover for another spot to set up in? They do that up here in sunflower fields for doves.

Tom
 
Eric - Pheasant forever in youir area should own a planter that you can borrow - This is the case in Indiana but I'm not sure where you are......Good luck
 
Eric,

My experience with a food plot for whitetails will re-inforce the "no-plow" advice. I DID plow my plot and ended up with ragweed and pigweed that hadn't been seen on the property in 20 years. I suspected the seed supplier had sold me a bunch of junk until I happened on a book from the Quality Deer Management organization and that educated me on the concept of leaving those non-desireable seeds buried where they can't germinate. Just my 2 cents worth. Hope it helps.
 
Spray, disc, broadcast, harrow/drag, then fertilize. That's what we did with our North Alabama hole. I even have a harrow you can borrow to pull behind a 4 wheeler or tractor. We used sorghum ... Japaneese Millet didn't last past August. The only problem with the sorghum was we didn't leave a hole for the ducks to land in. It came up super tall -- over six feet tall in some cases. Guess we had some super fertile ground!. You could plant the whole area and then knock down some of the areas that would be good landing spots for your blinds.

Holler and we can chat more.

Grace and peace,

David
 
Well, you kinda gotta work with the tools you have. Mine are mower, disc and sprayer. I have no plow, but I know a plow will deep till to solve problems like hard pan and a vigorous shallow weed seed bank. Given what another had posted, its conceivable that it could stir up deep, dormant seeds.

Anyway, the way I've been working things in my compromising, sub-perfect manner is what I can present to you.

Mow first. That was easy.

I'd disk next rather than spray and here is why. The weeds need to be young and growing with foliage to accept the spray. Just after mowing is not the best time to spray. If you disc first, you will kill many weeds while prompting a new recruitment of germinating weeds. You could, like me, do a second discing a week or so later to destroy these young weeds while further preparing your soil.

Spraying should be done at the time of one of the post-till new weed flushes when they are most vulnerable. Time, fuel costs and soil conditions will dictate how many tillings you can do before you spray or plant. The more you till the more you kill while also depleting the seed bank. However, some plants (fescue for instance) persist despite a few tills which is why you will spray. Roundup takes up to two weeks to complete the kill. If you till again such as when covering seeds, there is the risk of germinating more weed seeds.

Lastly, broadcast and cover. Millet won't need much to cover. I once hand cast seed onto exposed mud banks with good results. Ideally, a rainstorm would do the trick. Barring a good rain, cultipacking is good for finishing small seeds after broadcasting as would be a gentle harrow.

Japanese millet has a longer yield time than brown millet (72 days vs. 60) but is more tolerant of flooding than brown millet. So should your jap be a little late, it can still survive a while if you begin flooding. A mixture of the two will give you a prolonged millet production season and give some insurance against flooding. Sorghum is a drought resistant plant that if added to the mix might give insurance against plot failure should the millet dry, die or get covered to deeply. I would recommend you consider a mixture or Japanese millet, brown millet and sorghum.

Finally, remember it is for ducks and not production so some loss of yield is not the end of the world. You can accept some weeds, cut back on fertilizer or lime from the soil test's production farming application rate recommendations and still have birds. Have fun with your plots but don't stress over them too much.
 
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Lots of food for thought. Thank you all very much for the input. I'm heading over to the property today to get started cutting the weeds. Right now time is on my side, but given baseball schedules on the horizon I could quickly fall behind. Just have to be persistant and manage time wisely.

Eric
 
Spray, disc, broadcast, harrow/drag, then fertilize. That's what we did with our North Alabama hole. I even have a harrow you can borrow to pull behind a 4 wheeler or tractor. We used sorghum ... Japaneese Millet didn't last past August. The only problem with the sorghum was we didn't leave a hole for the ducks to land in. It came up super tall -- over six feet tall in some cases. Guess we had some super fertile ground!. You could plant the whole area and then knock down some of the areas that would be good landing spots for your blinds.

Holler and we can chat more.

Grace and peace,

David
You CANNOT knock down a planted crop and hunt it for waterfowl. This is considered baiting.
 
Spray, disc, broadcast, harrow/drag, then fertilize. That's what we did with our North Alabama hole. I even have a harrow you can borrow to pull behind a 4 wheeler or tractor. We used sorghum ... Japaneese Millet didn't last past August. The only problem with the sorghum was we didn't leave a hole for the ducks to land in. It came up super tall -- over six feet tall in some cases. Guess we had some super fertile ground!. You could plant the whole area and then knock down some of the areas that would be good landing spots for your blinds.

Holler and we can chat more.

Grace and peace,

David
You CANNOT knock down a planted crop and hunt it for waterfowl. This is considered baiting.


Michael, This is true and the law. So, just spray it dead and let it lay. Do not touch it after it is dead and you are safe. Hope Eric see this.
 
Duane, I am aware you cannot manipulate, e.g. bush hog, crops and hunt waterfowl over them.

We are off to a good start on the food plot. I managed to cut all 8 acres in just under 6 hours including knocking down a lot of trees that were in the way. The nearly 50 year old Massey Ferguson breezed through the weeds and trees. The Dale Phillips cutter showed it's stoutness too. If I can run over it with the tractor the DooBob can chew it up and spit it out. Weed height was as low as 12" in the lowest spots and over waist deep on the higher ground. I think every weed known to man is in that field. There was a lot of smartweed and some millet mixed in with the rest and a lot of briars. Here in the southeast if you leave a field fallow for very long it turns to forest and this field was headed in that direction. I think for the next step I will disk and then spray. Spraying should take less time than cutting did but disking will take more so I'd rather get some disk work in just to see what I'm up against. Below are a few pictures of the property after the cutting was completed. Overall I'm looking forward to getting this field ready for duck season. An 8 acre food plot under water just yards from the TN river should attract some ducks.

foodplotwork1.jpg


foodplotwork2.jpg


foodplotwork3.jpg


foodplotwork4.jpg


foodplotwork5.jpg


foodplotwork6.jpg


foodplotwork7.jpg

 
Update

Imagine the above pics with the green in the fields being replaced with brown dirt. Disking went well. Borrowed my employers disk today and got all 8 acres disked. The place looks a lot different than it did a week ago. Next step is to spray. I'll give it a few weeks to see what comes up on the fresh dirt then I'll hit it with herbicide and get a soil sample for lab work. In my mind's eye I can see 8 arcres of dense plush millet. Hope it happens.

Eric
 
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