Craig,
I can tell you how I did it. George most likely followed a very similar procedure because he has access to similar equipment as myself. We work at different companies but in very similar occupations. You may or may not have to adjust and improvise depending on the equipment available to you.
(A) file selection; dull 4 inch mill file
Step #1; Grind both sides flat and smooth on surface grinder, preferably wet grind. You will end up with a blade thickness of around .060 to .070 inch.
Step #2; Decide on shape of blade and rough cut profile using thin cutoff wheel in hand die grinder. Depending on chosen blade length, you may be able to get two blades from one file. I allow about 1.25" for a "tang" to glue into the handle.
Step#3; If the cutting edge of your blade will be straight, set a magnetic sine chuck to 6 degrees and grind both sides equally keeping the cutting edge centered in the blade thickness. The 12 degree include bevel angle will give you a bevel that will run back about a quarter inch on a blade that is .06 thick. Again wet grind is preferred. At all times during grinding the blade
can not be allowed to get hot enough to "blue" or change color. If it does you have lost the hardness and will have to start over or grind far enough back as to remove the damaged material.
Grinding with out losing the temper is the most critical part of the process.
If the cutting edge is to be curved (such as the hooked knife in the photo) the 6 degree bevel grinding will have to be done free hand. This will take some time to do properly.
Step #4; Select your handle material and mill a slot in the end to accept the tang of your newly formed blade. I used a carbide .125 dia. endmill and made the length of the slot just long enough to fit the blade width.
Step #5; Bandsaw, sand and otherwise shape the profile of your handle as desired.
Step #6; Using two part epoxy, glue the blade to the handle.
Step#7; Apply desired finish to handle.
Step#8; Finish sharpening previously ground bevel to a razor edge. As a final step a leather strop can be used or in my case I used a power buffing wheel and buffing/cutting compound to polish the face and edge of the blades.
You will know when your blade is sharp. You will be able to easily peel transparent shavings off the top of you thumbnail.