get bent

Todd Duncan Tennyson

Todd Duncan Tennyson

Well-known member
I have a bent prop (aluminum) 3 blade on my Merc 60 hp 4 stk. It is not so far bent that it has been a problem, but I don't want to keep running on it with the blade off kilter.


Anyone know if I can hit it with a flame from a torch and bend it back, or is it history?
 
I would not try to bend it yourself, aluminum tend to crack if not heated and bend just right.
Take it to a prop shop, they will have the right tools to fix it.
But it may be more economical to just buy a new one!
 
I run a bass boat regularly in some pretty nasty stuff. I hit logs and some rocks and believe stainless is the only way to go. They are much more durable and are repairable at $150 for a 25" prop on a 200hp which isn't needed very often. I don't even know if they can repair aluminum economically.
 
The problem w/ stainless props[aside from the price] is that they are stronger than the gears in the lower unit,when push comes to shove the gears usually lose.
I 'd rather replace or repair an aluminum prop than have to replace gears in the lower unit which can be very expensive.
To me aluminum is a better choice for a lower unit that will suffer the abuses of duck hunting.
My 2 cents.
 
I would agree with Dave, alum is better for banging around. I have had the propl fixed a few times and it was like 20 -25 a pop. One time was only a case of Miller Lite.

I run Stainless on the wife's ski boat though, but that is not dinging things routinely.
 
All prop blades flex when you power up the motor. Every prop is built to a specific pitch depending on your need. Over a period of time due to the flexing they do lose there original pitch.

Most marinas have a source to re pitch and re hub your prop. It is normally half the price of a new one.

On my shallow water boats I always had alum props. Never wanted to replace trans or drive rods in motor if I hit anything
 
I wouldn't use a torch I don't think because you might take too much temper out of the aluminum just some persuasion of the hammer type. If the bend is too far gone you will break it if not it will work OK. I have worked on props two ways. The first is to use a sledge hammer as a 'buck' like in riveting and hit the other side with a rubber hammer. Try a few taps first to make sure it's going in the direction that you want it to. Sometimes it bends counter intuitive - it bends 'away from the sledge' and towards the rubber hammer.

The other way is to take the prop off and put it on an anvil, vise, etc. and gently tap it back in place.

Not to worry if you wreck it because if you do it just meant that it was too far gone anyway. Might as well try it.

Sure you may not get it back to perfect but you might get it back to 'good enough' and the best part is - it's free.
 
Todd,
there used to be an outfit in St. Johns, not far from Anya's cart. They repair and balance all props. Last time we took an aluminum one in , I believe it ran $90.
Sorry, can't remember what they are called but, I'm sure a search under "Marine Accesories" would probably turn up something.
 
When you send in a prop for rebuilding they will heat it up to make any bends. Preheating is manditory if they have to add metal. But most importantly they reset the pitch using a pitch block that matches your prop. You don't have the pitch block so your chances of getting it correct is almost -0-. Also just about every prop is cupped. You start banging it with a hammer and you'll mess up the cupping. Best thing to do is send it to a prop shop. After having 3-4 props rebuilt over 20 years I switched to stainless. Haven't had to fix it yet. True they are much stronger than aluminum but some like the Michigan Wheel props have replacable rubber hubs on the inside that are designed to fail before you break the driveline.
 
Todd give Phil a call at Bossler and Sweezy.at 631-286-0458. He will give you the best advice. They do the best repair all of the prop shops here on Long Island and he won't beat you up. Feel free to drop my name.
 
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