Glueing decoy halves...

R

Robie Gardner

Member
I just wanted to know how many of you do more than just glue the decoy halves back togeather after they have been hollowed out? Right now, the few decoys I've done I've just used Tightbond III and called it a day. In Greyson Chesser's book, he uses #4 galvanized nails after he glues them. Am I putting to much trust in the glue? These are working decoys and its not too late for me to go back and put some nails in. They haven't been painted yet. I'm just afraid of spliting the decoy. Any advise?

Robie
 
2 part epoxy will do it but...that is designed for a bond with a bit of thickness to it. That thickness/bulk is required to generate the heat necessary for a proper cure. It is not designed for thin-layer application.

You want an adhesive that is designed to bond in a thin layer. That titebond II works as long as you are using the waterproof stuff.
Another option is the medium thick C/A (alpha cyanoacrylate)-super glue but use the good stuff from a hobby shop. The thicker is gap-filling and is designed to work in thin applications.
I drill two dowel holes into the decoy, prior to cutting in half. I hollow it out to leave wood around where the dowel holes are. This gives me an exact alignment for reassembly. Hollow and then glue.
Lou
Lou
 
lou, that dowel idea is great, never thought of that. Front and back I guess?

if you use titebond, use TB III, that is the waterproof one. And yes its waterproof. i glued my front door jam to my slab with it. No problem so far
 
Kris,
Yes...front and back. Pics to follow.
This is a GE Dk. I did for the Flats Rig in '03 for www.scfwa.net (we were .org back then) ;)
For the Flats Rig Deke, I typically take an E. Allen, cut it up into patterns and carve from that pattern. I know that bird like the back of my hand. How many do you figure I've handled in the last 18 years. I call it a Near Allen.
Lou



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Lou, that's a great decoy!!!

Robie, trust the glue!!! TB III is really good stuff. I put plenty of glue on both halves and then clamp into a vise overnight. I then need to use a spokeshave and a file to remove the excess and smooth the seam. The wood will rip and split before the glue separates! There are many awesome carvers that just use the glue.......................Best , Kevin
 
if you used screws when you first put the body together to carve and sand, prior to uncoupling and prepping for hollowing, did you remember to leave pillars/columns where the screws were?
They will give you a good reattachment point--i have been doing my gluing with gorilla, along with the screws, which cinch the two halves.
 
Thanks for all the suggestions. I really appreciate all the input. I like the idea of the columns left for the screws. Also, I now have more reassurance with TBIII. Thanks.
 
Robie, i believe the glue will hold up. Personally I take the air gun and brad nail mine, so they don't slip around will the glue cures and the seem to hold the bond tight instead of using a vice. Mike
 
Nice bird!

I used to split my cedar birds with a hatchet to get the two halves. Then they have a LOT to grip, and only have one way to slide. You just have to let 'er rip and not look back once the hammer drops! Hesitation will lead to a bad split. Also read the grain first. Then i'd use TIII. Now, i cannot find any cedar and am using tupelo. Tupelo will swallow a hatchet. I use a saw to cut the birds in half. I have this resin for boats from the boat shop, and i drill 1/8 (or what ever you have nearby) in holes in each cavity where they'll join. I then apply the resin to both sides, and press togather with my hands and position them. NO CLAMPS, you don't clamp epoxy or resin too often. Since the saw takes wood OFF the bird that the hatchet would NOT, the resin will act as a glue, and filler. Look at old boats that were built with resin, the old timers swore by that stuff. It is great. The best thing is if you try to clamp the two halves that you carved, and then cut out material with the bandsaw, then you will have to recarve the seam to get the two halves to fit (since they were not carved to have a gap cut out with the saw.) The other alternative is just to take two pieces of wood, cut out your pattern, and carve them as one bird (screw them togather) then when you're ready to hollow, unscrew it and you have a seam that you "carved to" (or will have no material taken out that will change the seam/transition between the halves.)

Hope this helps!

Spencer
 
I used gorilla glue once. The decoy had an oak board added to the bottom of hollow cedar. It poped open in cold weather and I got rid of the bird in a DU auction.

I've had good luck with dowels - I use 4 and push them to then ends and sides. I also like PL premium polyurethane and clamp with a tie-down strap (a strap and a ratchet - not the kind with hooks). The PL will expand a little and really seems to hold up well although it is not as easy to work with as "regular" glue.
 
I used gorilla glue once. The decoy had an oak board added to the bottom of hollow cedar. It popped open in cold weather and I got rid of the bird in a DU auction.

I've had good luck with dowels - I use 4 and push them to then ends and sides. I also like PL premium polyurethane and clamp with a tie-down strap (a strap and a ratchet - not the kind with hooks). The PL will expand a little and really seems to hold up well although it is not as easy to work with as "regular" glue.
 
I'm with Lou and George on this one. When I rough out the birds i have the two halves screwed together, and I also leave columns of wood as anchor points for the screws to put the halves back together.

Use West System epoxy for the glue, but add the fibers and you will have a glue that doesnt run and will create a very nice seam when done.
 
Hey Lou,

I noticed the grain of the wood had been darkened...I am assuming you flamed the decoy...If that is correct is there any sanding the must be done after it is flamed?

Regards,

Kristan
 
Hey Lou,

I noticed the grain of the wood had been darkened...I am assuming you flamed the decoy...If that is correct is there any sanding the must be done after it is flamed?

Regards,

Kristan
Click to expand...

Kristan,
The darkening is not from flaming. After I've done my carving, I shoot a coat of enamel primer on the bird. This will act as a "bluing ink" and when I sand, it shows me the highs & lows and makes the final sanding much easier.
Lou
 
I will be attempting to use a router to put a bottom board in for hollowing. It seems a shame to use a full size solid piece of wood then cut it in half.
 
Andy:
Not everybody does. Most carvers assume that you must have 4" stock plus a bottom board. I typically use 3" and 2" White Cedar for my decoys. The 2" is on the bottom, this ensures that the glue line is above the water line. Another advantage is the whole decoy is made of the same wood, so expansion and contraction rates should be similar, as opposed to having a pine board on a cedar decoy. I also use 2 part epoxy with fillers to laminate the halves together.
 
Since this discussion has come up how I would be curious to see what other think about use of Gorilla Glue? Any real world feedback from those that are doing it?
 
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