Tim Bricker
Member
Just started using this glue... So how do you get this stuff off of youre hands.. My hands have been black for 2 days.. Any info would be apreciated... Thanks
Gorrilla Glue
- Thread starter Tim Bricker
- Start date
Pete McMiller
Well-known member
First of all, don't get it on your hands as you have already found out, it's nasty to get off. This is from their web site:
What should I do if I get Gorilla Glue on my hands?
Gorilla Glue can temporarily stain skin. If you do get the glue on your skin, try a dry cloth or paper towel first (particularly if the glue is still tacky). If that doesn’t work, try washing with soap and cold water, or using an exfoliator with a gritty texture. Dry your skin and apply lotion. We do not recommend using any kind of alcohol or acetone. This actually strips the skin of its natural oils, which means the glue is more likely to stick. Despite the cautions, if it were me, I'd try a little bit of different solvents to see if something cut it. One I have used in the past that has worked well on certain things is WD-40 believe it or not. WD-40 works really good with pine sap for example.
What should I do if I get Gorilla Glue on my hands?
Gorilla Glue can temporarily stain skin. If you do get the glue on your skin, try a dry cloth or paper towel first (particularly if the glue is still tacky). If that doesn’t work, try washing with soap and cold water, or using an exfoliator with a gritty texture. Dry your skin and apply lotion. We do not recommend using any kind of alcohol or acetone. This actually strips the skin of its natural oils, which means the glue is more likely to stick. Despite the cautions, if it were me, I'd try a little bit of different solvents to see if something cut it. One I have used in the past that has worked well on certain things is WD-40 believe it or not. WD-40 works really good with pine sap for example.
Pete McMiller
Well-known member
Kevin,
Since I don't have a wife to read them to me I have to do it myself.
My man card is quite secure thank you...............glued to the inside of my sky blue Crocs.
Since I don't have a wife to read them to me I have to do it myself.
My man card is quite secure thank you...............glued to the inside of my sky blue Crocs.
Tim Bricker
Member
Well fellows, I guess I deserve the ribbin im gettin.. I guess I will go out and get some latex gloves .. I hate the darn things but I cant go around looking like this... Had my hands in vaseline all night long, tried gas today... Im telling you,nasty stuff ... Keep the vaseline jokes to yourself... Thanks for the learning curve....
Eric Dellamater
Well-known member
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I won't touch it either...I mean I leave it sitting on the shelf at the store
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that is my response too. glue joint is weaker than with most other glues. I prefer Titebond III for most of my glueing jobs now.
as far as getting it off, you don't, skin must slough first.
I won't touch it either...I mean I leave it sitting on the shelf at the store
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that is my response too. glue joint is weaker than with most other glues. I prefer Titebond III for most of my glueing jobs now.
as far as getting it off, you don't, skin must slough first.
Lee Harker
Well-known member
Try white vinegar or that orange stuff...Fast Orange I think it's called, that stuff gets everything off my hands. If you wait till the next day to wash your hands....you deserve to have "gluehand" for a week. I agree on using something else...not impressed with the poly/foam glues at all. They crystallize in a year or so and lose their strength. Titebond 3 baby!
Wispete
Well-known member
Tim, like ED said don't take this personal. We have all been there done that.
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[font=Verdana,Arial,Helvetica]Well fellows, I guess I deserve the ribbin im gettin.. I guess I will go out and get some latex gloves .. I hate the darn things but I cant go around looking like this... Had my hands in vaseline all night long, tried gas today... Im telling you,nasty stuff ... Keep the vaseline jokes to yourself... Thanks for the learning curve.... [/font]
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The post did bring a smile to my face. Up by the ice and snow and cold Pete
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[font=Verdana,Arial,Helvetica]Well fellows, I guess I deserve the ribbin im gettin.. I guess I will go out and get some latex gloves .. I hate the darn things but I cant go around looking like this... Had my hands in vaseline all night long, tried gas today... Im telling you,nasty stuff ... Keep the vaseline jokes to yourself... Thanks for the learning curve.... [/font]
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The post did bring a smile to my face. Up by the ice and snow and cold Pete
Eric Dellamater
Well-known member
Not to beat a dead horse, I saw this on Wood Boat Forum and thought it was somewhat relevent to this discussion so I am posting this here...
Over the years I have several times worked as a technical advisor in the wood processing industry, that includes fingerjointing, laminating, plywood manufacture and both particle and mdf boards. All of which use glues, and all of which gave me access to very good testing equipment. I've used pva [titebond] a lot, standard white, aliphatic and cross linked catalysed. I found no difference in strength, PVA tests consistently higher in strength than any other wood glue . In my testing I made a series of control pieces using WEST epoxy, and called the mean of my test run 100%. On that base using the same softwood test material,same surface prep, same temperatures and so on, PVA came in at 120%, Phenol resorcinol formaldehyde at 112% MUF and UF at 105% Epoxys varied slightly but generally the 1/1 and 2/1 premixes were less strong than the 4/1 or 5/1 , and ALL of the polurethanes [Gorilla/Pro Bond] at between 50 and 65%.
Repairability was not brilliant in any case except for the epoxies where good surface prep brought the new joint close to the original in strength, but all of the other glues lost significant strength in glueing a previously coated joint unless planed or scraped off to a new surface. PVA is not unique in this.
Like most glues that we use, PVA is a mechanical bonding agent, it penetrates the cellular structure of the wood surface, sits in there and hardens off. The result is like the monkeys fist in the bottle in that there are lumps in the cells too big to pull out, and its connected with the monkeys fists on the other face of the joint by the glue film. Dead right it doesnt stick to itself once cured, even more so with the cross linked version so repairing a joint by smearing it with more glue is a waste of time.
So whats the issue? Good working practice is to prepare the joint with a freshly planed or cabinet scraped joint, not sanded as that can in some instances be not as good a planed surface.
All the best for the new year.
John Welsford, enjoying the summer warmth in New Zealand
Over the years I have several times worked as a technical advisor in the wood processing industry, that includes fingerjointing, laminating, plywood manufacture and both particle and mdf boards. All of which use glues, and all of which gave me access to very good testing equipment. I've used pva [titebond] a lot, standard white, aliphatic and cross linked catalysed. I found no difference in strength, PVA tests consistently higher in strength than any other wood glue . In my testing I made a series of control pieces using WEST epoxy, and called the mean of my test run 100%. On that base using the same softwood test material,same surface prep, same temperatures and so on, PVA came in at 120%, Phenol resorcinol formaldehyde at 112% MUF and UF at 105% Epoxys varied slightly but generally the 1/1 and 2/1 premixes were less strong than the 4/1 or 5/1 , and ALL of the polurethanes [Gorilla/Pro Bond] at between 50 and 65%.
Repairability was not brilliant in any case except for the epoxies where good surface prep brought the new joint close to the original in strength, but all of the other glues lost significant strength in glueing a previously coated joint unless planed or scraped off to a new surface. PVA is not unique in this.
Like most glues that we use, PVA is a mechanical bonding agent, it penetrates the cellular structure of the wood surface, sits in there and hardens off. The result is like the monkeys fist in the bottle in that there are lumps in the cells too big to pull out, and its connected with the monkeys fists on the other face of the joint by the glue film. Dead right it doesnt stick to itself once cured, even more so with the cross linked version so repairing a joint by smearing it with more glue is a waste of time.
So whats the issue? Good working practice is to prepare the joint with a freshly planed or cabinet scraped joint, not sanded as that can in some instances be not as good a planed surface.
All the best for the new year.
John Welsford, enjoying the summer warmth in New Zealand