Grass Rail material

Dave E

Dave E

Active member
In a couple of days I will be ready to make and install my grass rails. I have having trouble deciding what kind of wood to use. Cedar seems like it would break if someones steps on it; Oak seems like I would have trouble bending it around the curves. Does anyone have a good (tried and tested) solution for me?
 
I would suggest wolmanized wood. I replaced my grass rails 15 years ago by ripping down a piece of wolmanized 2x4 with the grain to allow bending to the contour of the boat. Painted with Parker's Duck Boat paint and they are still on the boat and no rot. GL !!
 
I don't know what wolmanized is, but I think I have heard of it somewhere. I used a 2x4x15' piece of mahogany with the method Eric describes on his "building a Scaup" page. I used through bolts counter sunk with mahogany plugs, sanded the whole rail, then covered with epoxy before painting with FME when I painted the whole boat.

John
 
I don't know what wolmanized is, but I think I have heard of it somewhere. I used a 2x4x15' piece of mahogany with the method Eric describes on his "building a Scaup" page. I used through bolts counter sunk with mahogany plugs, sanded the whole rail, then covered with epoxy before painting with FME when I painted the whole boat.

John
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"Ditto"
 
Dave'

"Wolmanized" is a trade name for pressure treated wood. It will be a pine or soft wood of some sort and treated with chemicals for rot resistance.

Like I said, I choose mahogany for it's durability. I used a linseed oil finish because I figured at some point in time the grass rail would get dinged. If sealed with epoxy and it gets dinged water can penetrate but would have a difficult time drying back out. If treated with linseed oil, the wood will still breathe.
 
My friend and I used treated 5/4 deck boards ,we picked out apair that had warped or bowed this gave us a jump start on helping the curvature [to his T.D.B.boat] after cutting the finger holds for the grass rail, we started screwing in from the center out to left then to the right it worked out fine. P.S. make sure the wood is damp if not ,let it out set on your back yard lawn overnite It should then be easier to work with.
 
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I choose mahogany for it's durability. I used a linseed oil finish because I figured at some point in time the grass rail would get dinged. If sealed with epoxy and it gets dinged water can penetrate but would have a difficult time drying back out. If treated with linseed oil, the wood will still breathe.

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OK, sounds good. If someone steps on the mahogany, is it likely to resist cracking? Do you know if Cherry would be a good choice as well? My carpenter neighbor suggested cherry because it is a hardwood. I like the linseed oil finish idea. It takes a while to dry as I remember.
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If someone steps on the mahogany, is it likely to resist cracking?
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I've been known to walk on mine. I'll often walk around the perimeter of the cockpit and my foot is at least halfway supported by the rail. The rest of my weight bearing down on the deck.

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[font=Verdana,Arial,Helvetica] [/font][font=Verdana,Arial,Helvetica]Do you know if Cherry would be a good choice as well?[/font]
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[font=Verdana,Arial,Helvetica] I honestly can't answer that one. I do question if it would bend any easier than the Oak, I just don't know.
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Dave,

I'm in my 5th year of use with my BB3 and no problems with my grass rails other than a chip out of one where it banged into a pier. I used Sitka Spruce because it was available at the time and bent well. With the design of the rails (like Eric's Scaup) I don't think you need to worry to much about them breaking. I thru bolted them at the standoffs, covered with epoxy and painted.
 
I'm not sure how much bend you'll need, but....


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Here is a shot of my boat the way it looked last night. I have put more epoxy on the top side this morning. As soon as that part if finished I will start on the grass rails. I will be going to the lumber yard tomorrow while I have my pick up truck. During my work week, (tues-Fri) I drive "the company car" into town. My stick needs to be about 14 ft long.

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Just about all of the bending is in the front 1/3 of the boat.

Next week I will be start drafting plans for the galley, engine room, salon and fly bridge... Ha!

Thanks for the help fellas. I think I will stick with the mahogany for the rails. I have not started on the hatch and cockpit covers yet. That's next week too.

Dave
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I used white oak and glassed over them on my cackler with no problems. Started mounting from the stern and moved foward.

Did you use fiberglass, or just the epoxy? There are a whole lot of curves to go around on those things......
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