Great South Bay Scooter - Plans

Steve Sanford

Well-known member
Well, I spent most of the month of March inspecting, measuring, recording, measuring again, and - finally - drawing up plans for the Great South Bay Scooter - the Ted Sanford - that I just restored. If you have been following this long process, you may recall that this vessel was built - in the 1920s or 30s - by Benjamin Hallock in Center Moriches, Long Island. The first Scooter was "invented" on Bellport Bay - which is the eastern end of Great South Bay and is a few miles from Center Moriches.

As usual, I have documented every step of this process and the full account is on my website at:

http://stevenjaysanford.com/great-south-bay-scooter/

This phase begins after Gallery 12. And remember, once you are in a Gallery, click on the first photo so it will enlarge - and then arrow to the right to view it as a slide show with captions. When done in a Gallery, just click the X in the upper left corner.

I started by figuring out how this plank-on-frame boat was put together 90 or so years ago. I imagine anyone building one now would use a newer technology - cedar strip, cold-molding, 'glass composite - but it is fun to appreciate the earlier methods and materials.

Way up forward is the back of the White Oak Breast Hook (Stem?) that holds the bow together and a Whitecedar sawn frame.

CD3Forwardsawnframes_zps3a9a304a.jpg


The next frames combine bent (steamed) "ribs" for the crowned deck and sawn "Hackmatack knees" for the hull contours. Hackmatack knees are sawn from Tamarack trees where the shallow roots curve outward from the trunk.

CD6Bentdeckframes_zps605fd9d0.jpg


Either side of the cockpit, the frames use Hackmatack knees both to frame the hull and to support the side decks.

CD7Pairedframes_zps5374befe.jpg


After measuring the locations of each of 15 frames, I leveled the boat both athwartships and lengthwise. I used the sheer - the upper edge of the sides - as a level reference point. I was able to draw the Plan View full-size on the 4' x 17' paper - and recorded many notes there, too.

4Planview_zpsdb0fc1ea.jpg


I made this jig to record the "buttock lines" every 4 inches on both the decks and the hull.

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I mounted a different set of legs to pick the lines off the hull - measuring up from the floor. All of these curves got recorded as numbers in my notebook.

14Hulljig_zps1e774d89.jpg


I also measured up and drew special features like the Oarlock Stanchions. Wherever practical, I drew details full-size.

16OarlockStanchiondrawing_zpsa81c2cd0.jpg


Now all of these numbers got turned back into curves - faired to ignore the bumps and hollows found on most 90-year-olds.

D1Transferringmesasurements_zpsbe6d3286.jpg


I do not have "real" splines and spline weights, so I improvised with limber battens, notched sticks and spring clamps.

D2Clampingthespline_zps9e905388.jpg


The Plan and Profile views were drawn at 1:8 scale - and were based on my first round of measurements where I used each frame as a station. These are useful as "conceptual overviews" - but more accurate measurements are in the Half-breadths and the full-size the Sections and detail drawings - which are based on stations ever 2 feet along the length.

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Here are the Forward Sections. Note how the brass "ice runners" are tipped slightly inward - so they ride on their edges.

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Here are the After Sections. The Sheer drops a bit as it approaches the stern.

D6Cropped3-Aftersections_zpsf91f0c97.jpg


This detail shows the construction of a typical mid-section frame. Bottom planking is 1/2-inch and the decks are 3/8-inch.

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This drawing shows the framing of the Bow (before I replaced the rotted "nose") and of the Fantail Stern. Both are drawn full-size.

D8Cropped-FantailampBreastHookFraming-replacement_zps7f7153f4.jpg



Want Plans?

Any ambitious builder could build a Great South Bay Scooter from the information here and on my site. But, if you want to save a couple of days of lofting, full-size copies of these 5 drawings would be very helpful. I am inclined to copy and mail them for cost - I am guessing about $30. Just send me a PM if you are interested. (BTW: These were drawn on 22 x 28 paper. Because it is not one of the standard printer sizes, I am told it would be very difficult to print them from the scan files at precisely the correct dimensions. So, I would have copies made from the originals.)

All the best,

SJS
 
Steve, great work! Could this be the start of the "Sanford Class" scooter brigade as sets of those plans begin to migrate across the country? I think I am enjoying your retirement nearly as much as you are! Best, Rufus
 
Very nice Steve. Beautiful work and fun to see the finished product, but also how you got there. I really appreciate the work you put into this and sharing it.

T
 
Nice job Steve.
Something tells me we may see some Great South Bay scooter builds this year.
 
Thanks, John.

Also, a "buzz" is building on LI - this boat and a couple others will be at the LIDCA show next March - and I think more than one LI gunner is sprucing up his old Scooter in hopes of ice next season.

All the best,

SJS
 
From your post(s) a person can tell that you are very talented and truly love this stuff. How lucky we are - thanks for sharing.
 
Steve;
What a great post............reclaiming your Dad's boat, and preserving important history that's unique to your part of the world. I wish we had the kind of weather out here on Puget Sound that would let us use a South Bay Scooter. As usual, your attention to detail, and craftsmanship is outstanding.


Thanks.............Gibby
 
THanks for your hard work and dedication.. i really appreciate it! whats the chances of a tutorial for us young bucks on how to read these plans! I know how to work with fiberglass but my woodworking/ plan reading is non existent. Specifically, i really wish i understood how to replicate the ark shapes for making the ribs. I bought a copy of small boat craft but i haven't had the time to dive into it.
 
Gibby et al ~

I am glad you all enjoy the post.

As will be revealed when I restore my second Great South Bay Scooter later this year (?) - also built by Benjamin Hallock - they are not just for ice work. Many (most) were rigged as "grassboats". Here is the next one - formerly owned by Arthur Christ, Sr. of, I think, Coram, Long Island (that's former DU rep Craig Kessler next to my trailer load):

CapnKesslerwithScooter1_zps1cccd953.jpg


I will be restoring it to "as-built" condition. I will remove the 'glass and make thatch rails, stool rack, floorboards, ice runners, etc. These Scooters are wonderful boats. They never got the "press" that the Barnegat Sneakboxes enjoy, but they are an exceptional duckboat for tidal waters. I would probably give the Sneakbox a slight edge for rowing - because they have a skeg and so usually track better under oars. But a Scooter - because it's longer and narrower, "shoves" much better - a very efficient way to cross hard-bottomed flats on low water. This photo shows one all thatched up with salt hay (Spartina patens). Because our cover is low, we traditionally lay on our backs to hide - and sit up to shoot. The picture below is from Connett's Duck Shooting Along the Atlantic Tidewater. One does not NEED ice runners, but, with oars, a shovin' oar, and a pike pole (for the ice), a Scooter can get you wherever you need to go under any conditions of sea or ice.

Connett-ThatchedupScooter_zps9eac08de.jpg


Back in the day, Scooters - especially those built by Benjamin Hallock or his successor Oliver Howell - were THE duckboat at the Pattersquash Gun Club on Bellport Bay (described in Connett). I vividly recall the first time I hunted Pattersquash - seeing a couple dozen Scooters lined up on Pelican Island, each tied to a post driven into the bog and holding a couple dozen cork Black Duck stool on their after decks.

All the best,

SJS
 
Sean~

As you note, books are written on the topic of building traditional plank-on-frame boats. The first step is usually "lofting" the plans. Lofting is the process - a combination of math, drawing and woodworking skills - wherein several views and numerous parts of the boats are drawn full-size. Most good boatbuilding books devote a chapter to the process (and, I imagine there must be videos nowadays....)

The plans I have drawn for the Ted Sanford include lofted drawings of the hull sections. So, if I were going to build one, I would get a set of paper plans (I just had several sets copied yesterday to be mailed to some duckboats.net members next week). Then, I would copy 4 sets of the Forward Sections and 3 sets of the After sections - this would enable me to cut out the shape of each station (Stations 2,4,6,8 Forward and 10, 12, 14 Aft) and glue the paper cut-out to a piece of 1/2-inch ply or MDO to serve as the moulds around which the hull would be built. This saves having to re-convert all the measurements to curves.

Converting the numbers to curves is just like plotting any curve in math class. The X axis (horizontal line) is the distance out from the centerline of the hull. The Y axis (vertical line) is the height above the baseline. For this boat, I have measured every 4 inches along the X axis. At each 4-inch interval, I measured the distance above (for the decks) or below (for the hull) the "baseline". ("Normal" boat plans measure ONLY up from a baseline that is below the hull. However, because decked over boats like the Scooter are more or less 2 hulls together - like a clam shell - it made more sense to use the sheer (which is the top edge of the side) as the baseline because it is the ONLY straight line in this boat.

Lofting the Plan View (the boat as view from above) requires the Half-breadths (the distances out from the centerline) and is helped by the full-size drawings of both the Bow and the Fantail. If I were building, I'd paint 2 pieces of underlayment (cheap 1/" lauan plywood) white and then mark a center line with a chalk line. The stations are every 2' back from the bow - so I would make a grid every 2'. Once the widths are marked at each station, I would bend a long batten around 4d finishing nails driven in at each station. I do give a brief tutorial on lofting for my Coffin Box build (see Gallery # 1) at: http://stevenjaysanford.com/sanford-gunning-box/

BTW: If I were building a new Scooter, I would probably use either cedar-strip or cold-molding methods instead of plank-on-frame - because they would be lighter, stiffer and would not have to be kept from drying out as a carvel-built hull does.

Hope this helps,

SJS
 
Steve:

I'm not sure you need another project, but I think you already have the material for a very fine book of plans and photos, with some history and duck stories tossed in. It'd be on my Christmas and birthday wish lists!

Great stuff.
 
Steve,

To reinforce Jeff's statement; I too "Mr. I Love Aluminum" would buy the book in a flash! I enjoy the lines, the history and seeing how the unique areas developed different designs based on need. So much more interesting than today's commercial desire for a one design "fits all" world. (note: not talking duck boats here, we still have loads of these historic & modern choices thanks to privately owned company/workshops like Lou's and Tony's, along with back yard wood craftsmen.

This is a fun world, and your potential book would celibate it.

Scott
 
Somewhere up there, Zack Taylor is smiling down on all of this...looking forward to the grass boat project! Can't wait to see it, Rufus
 
Jeff, Scott and Rufus~

Thanks for the kind words.

I have certainly thought of a book - but usually dismiss it out of hand because of 1) economic/market realities of this arcane subject we love so much, and 2) I LOVE not having to deal with others - editors, publishers, etc - the process would be WAY too much like being back at work in a bureaucracy....

On the other hand, e-books cost only time. I sort of feel like I HAVE been writing a book - since joining duckboats.net and especially since starting my website last summer. BUT, I have lots more to do and say and write about - so I very much see myself as in the "producing content" mode for a couple of years at least. Interestingly, it is writing the stories that is toughest - because one needs an uninterrupted block of time. Jeff summarized my own thoughts well - a mix of instruction, history and stories.

Rufus hit the nail. Zack Taylor's Successful Waterfowling is in my personal Top 5. I love his "how-to" stuff - right to the point about building your own boats and gear. Too much of our sport (and the world) has moved toward "how-to-buy" - and I want to be more than just a consumer. Which is why this website is such a fine place to be.

Finally, for Scott, if I ever do put something together, I will have to say something about the "tin boats" in my life....

All the best,

SJS
 
Well, right while you are laying out the galleys..add a piece on how to personalize the buildings in your custom compound with giant black duck half models, like I think I see on the front of the two buildings behind Craig in the top photo. Is that what those are? It might be time for a photographic man shed tour. Best, Rufus
 
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