Hey, Keith Mueller...

Rick Pierce

Rick Pierce

Well-known member
I really need some help/guidance, because I screwed up and don't know where.

Used the amber shellac, two coats, sanded in between and after 2nd coat. Let each coat dry completely, and did 2 coats of Ronan's lamp black. Painted in Ronan's to try and do some basic grisaille. Let everything sit for a week and then painted bills and tails in tube oils.

Let those dry for either six days or a full week (hard to the touch, no residual "tack"), and then wanted to tank test for self-righting. That went well, then put birds outside to dry so I could start painting again.

Came back an hour later, and the paint had bubbled down to the shellac in various spots on the decoys, predominantly in the "valleys"...i.e., where rump meets tail, sidepockets, and down the back. I've stripped them all down to bare wood and am going to start over. I could see the tails and bills bubbling if the tube oils were not totally dry, but the Ronan's bubbled off the shellac, and I'm really confused.

If you get some spare time, please call my cell at 501-944-5871. Don't know where I went wrong, and am trying to figure it out so I don't repeat it or have it happen with them in a contest or (more importantly) out gunning.

Thanks,

Rick
 
Rick,

Let us know what you find out. I've been given good advise from Rutgers on the same subject (I hope he chimes in). He had the same bubble problem with a freshly painted decoy when he set in out in the sun to dry. So, don't put oil paints in the sun too soon. My hypothesis is it that the sun's heat causes the the solvents to move out of the paint too fast in the thicker areas and that's why you had bubbles in the valleys. I'd love to hear the pros comment on this one.
 
How goes it!! We need to catch up sometime.

How long did you wait between coats of Ronans? Although it drys quick, it needs a full day to cure before covering. Not sure if that was the problem or not.

Best,
Steve
 
Did you put them outside in direct sunlight? Sounds to me like it was too much shellac and direct sunlight before the paint had time to dry. One very quick, thin application of shellac is plenty.
 
Things are going pretty well...other than some learning time with new methods...

Basically, I painted two coats of Ronans over the weekend, and let them dry until the next weekend, then painted bills/tails, then let that dry and did the tank test.

The only thing I can figure is that the shellac wasn't fully dry when the Ronans went on, though it had time to dry, too, I thought.

We definitely need some catch-up time! Shoot some clays, drink some Yuengling or a little Knob Creek with some good food...
 
Yes, they were set, or wound up in, the direct light.

Haven't had that issue before, but there's a first time for everything...
 
I gave my decoys gas...too funny...

I actually did consider moving them to a covered area where they could still dry outside, but not in direct light. Just didn't think it would be an issue with dry paint.

Looking forward to hearing/seeing what everyone says.

Thanks for the help.
 
Hi Rick,

Sorry I didn't find your post (and email) sooner....I have been jammed trying to get a few things finished before next week, and there was that tax thing!! :)

Unfortunately what happened to you is a common problem, (I have been there many times).......the Japan oil didn't properly adhere to the shellac sealer. I think I posted something similar a while back regarding a post about sealers and sealing a decoy. A sealer coat should only be a light application of the shellac to prevent the paint (primer) from excessively soaking into the wood. If a multiple coat of sealer is used to create a "plastic-like" finish it will create a surface that doesn't allow a good "tooth" for the paint, and the paint will end up not properly sticking to the surface causing the "bond" to break down. Because you mentioned that most of your problem came from the "valleys" of your carving, this is an indicator to me that this is exactly what happened. When the shallac was applied it "pooled" in the low areas of the carving causing it to build up and have a thicker coating. THis thicker coating didn't allow a good tooth, and was a starting point for a complete breakdown of the paint adhesion problem.

Also because black absorbs heat, sitting in the sun "heated up" the paint which warmed up the coating of shellac, which in turn caused the paint/sealer bond to release and breakdown. The main culpret here is the two coats and applications of shellac. I always use one coat of shellac for all my decoy sealing, and that is just a light coat as well. Because of the many coats of paint that will be applied to the decoy, very little sealer is needed. Believe me, it is very difficult to control the amount of sealers we apply to the decoy. It is quite common to approach this procedure with the thought process of using acrylics....by applying multiple heavy coats of varnish or lacquer followed by heavy sponged paste and gesso. But with oils it is much easier, "less is more"!!

Here is the procedure that I would suggest and is exactly what I do: sand the decoy first with 80 grit followed by 120 and finish with 220. Remember the decoy doesn't (and shouldn't be) sanded like polished glass....we need the wood's fiberous pores to be open and receptive to absorb the sealer. The shellac sealer should be applied with a light application (you will know this because it will absorb quickly into the wood instead of running down in large drips)....and then STOP!! IN fact when this coat dries, it will look as if you haven't even applied the shallac at all. Be very careful to wipe away any excess shellac (use another brush) from the carved areas or "valleys" to prevent the "pooling" of the shellac before it dries which will lead to that undesirable thicker coating.

When the shellac is dry (usually 15 minutes) sand the bird again with 220 grit paper and wipe away all the shellac powder/wood dust that appears with a slightly damp rag of denatured alcohol to clean and remove any residue. If at this time any grain from the wood raises, don't worry just sand it again with 220, and remove the powder with a clean dry rag. That is all you need to do for the sealing coat.

Now go back to your painting process.....and if you need to put the decoy outside to dry the paint, always use indirect or filtered light in the shade, not direct sun. The warm air /oxygen is what is drying the paint, excessive direct heat at this time will be more problematic. I allow my Japan paint applications such as priming and grisaille to dry inside on my paint table. It dries in workable time for me, so I don't need to alter it in any way. I am not sure how you were using your tube oils, but I might suggest using a little alkyd oil in your mix, or two or three drops (an I mean two or three drops) of cobalt dryer in your paint mix. This will help the paint dry at a quicker pace so you don't have to take a chance on the drying the paint in the sun method.

The most critical step in painting is the sealing step. Because you are using oil paints you don't have to protect the wood by coating the wood with heavy applications of clear sealers....the oil paint is a sealer and the subsequent coats just add to this process.

I hope that helped.

Let us know what happens.

Best,

Keith
 
Another issue to pay attention to - and I know this from experience - make sure the shellac that you use is wax free. Had some birds blister all over when subjected to direct light, blister not just in valleys but flat spots too. I guess wax and oils don't stick together real well...IMHO

Clint
 
I will try it and let you know how it works. I'm going to have to go back and re-read and study, because I thought your book talked about two coats of shellac rather than just one. I must have mis-read.

I wondered if the direct sunlight was at least a partial cause...and God knows, the Southern sun at this time of year is already pretty intense...

I really appreciate the help. Keep the cell number and give me a call some time, especially if you're headed this way.

Best,

Rick
 
You are correct Rick, I did mention two coats of shellac in my book.......however I should have mentioned that these coats should be very lightly applied. You will be better off working with one coat for the best results, and as Clint mentioned, make sure the shellac is wax-free.

Good luck,

Keith
 
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