Higbee Floor

B

Brian Miller

Active member
I’m getting ready to rufurb a higbee and first is a stringer replacement. I’m wondering what’s the best floor design? It had a plywood false floor screwed to the stringers. Just curious what others have done. Pics would be great!

Thanks, Brian
 
Brian Miller said:
I’m getting ready to rufurb a higbee and first is a stringer replacement. I’m wondering what’s the best floor design? It had a plywood false floor screwed to the stringers. Just curious what others have done. Pics would be great!

Thanks, Brian
Click to expand...
Brian~

Is your Higbee a 'glass hull? If so - as I have done on many South Bay Duckboats - you may want to make a new floorboard (more properly "duck board" because it is removable) that it easily removable - instead of fastening it to the stringers. I use wooden turnbuttons to hold the floorboard in place.

Here is the Black Locust turnbutton on its base (aka pad) - which is permanently fastened.

sm Balabus - Turnbutton on pad.JPG

With floorboard (half-inch AC plywood) in place.

sm Balabus - Turnbutton with fender washers.JPG

Here is a pair of floorboards with: anti-skid; 4 slots for turnbutttons; "scupper" for bailing; and low "curbs" up forward to prevent stowed gear from moving aft when under way.


sm Balabus - Floorboards with strap eyes.JPG

A closeup of the scupper/bailing port

sm Scupper.JPG

On my RED-LEG, I used just a single pair of turnbuttons (central board is permanently fastened; lateral boards are removable).

Frame (chocks, actually) at upper end holds a 15-pound Navy (aka "stockless") anchor and its coiled-and-lashed rode. The rode is about 50 feet of half-inch nylon.

sm Floorboards RED-LEG.jpg

Chock details:

sm Navy Anchor in chocks with rode.jpg

With coiled-n-lashed rode lashed to anchor shank:

sm Navy anchor in chocks.JPG

Hope this helps!

SJS
 
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