Highlands BBSB Build

Good morning, Larry~

I'm guessing the 5200 was used on the top surfaces of all the frame members as well as the gunwales and transom?

Was the deck screwed just at the perimeter and around each cockpit?

The boat is looking truly sweet - it has been fun to follow the build.

All the best,

SJS
 
Good morning, Larry~

I'm guessing the 5200 was used on the top surfaces of all the frame members as well as the gunwales and transom?

Was the deck screwed just at the perimeter and around each cockpit?

The boat is looking truly sweet - it has been fun to follow the build.

All the best,

SJS

Steve the 5200 was used along the the top of the clamp, the deck carlings, top of transom. It was used everywhere the deck came in contact with the hull. The bronze screws were used in the same fashion as the 5200.
I'm glad you enjoyed watching this build thus far, it's not over yet. My goal was to document a boat with Old School looks with newer school technology. It has been enjoyable watching her come together.
 
Larry,
Thanks for the step by step build on this boat it is a great project and will surely be used as a tutorial for future builders.

I am looking forward to the completion and water tests, would like to see it in action surrounded by some of Rick Ligmans black cork decoys.
 
Larry,
Thanks for the step by step build on this boat it is a great project and will surely be used as a tutorial for future builders.

I am looking forward to the completion and water tests, would like to see it in action surrounded by some of Rick Ligmans black cork decoys.

I was happy to bring this build to everyone's attention, Marty Khristensen is not a tech savvy guy or one to blow his own horn. Marty has taken the wood working skills that he learned from his grandfather and father and has improved on them with the latest technology. I will be proud to own this vessel and have enjoyed the building process immensely!
 
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Been a while since we have given you an update. The shoes have been installed to the bottom of the hull. The front hatch has been cut and the hatch cover has been made. The decoy racks have been installed along with the oar locks and the hardware. The only things left are to make the main and aft hatch covers the motor board needs to be installed and the boat needs its final coat of paint. After that is all completed the canvases will be installed.

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Good morning, Larry~

All those finishing touches are sweet - my favorite part of any boat because they make a world of difference when using day in and day out.

I was interested to see the style of the oarlock stanchions - fixed like many Long Island boats - and not the traditional folding Sneakbox style. I have never used the folding ones but prefer the fixed simply because I avoid moving parts wherever I can.

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Out in the shop I have a pair of a completely different style. They are removable stanchions that wedge into place when in use. The backward forces of rowing keep them wedged against low chocks fastened to the deck. These were made (by Bud Corwin's Dad) for an open water rig where hiding the stanchions was "necessary". Many other such boats used removable pipe stanchions. I will post photos and details sometime in the future.



All the best,

SJS
 
Steve, Marty gave me the option to go with the fixed oar locks or the folding kind. after speaking to a few people about the pluses and minues of both I decided to go with the fixed. That is the great advanatge of having a guy like Marty build you a boat everything can be customized!!
 
I had seen a neat dovetailed oarlock on a BBSB at Tuckerton, and spent some time with some pine stock working out the dimensions when I rebuilt Hrota a few years ago.







In the end, I decided to just install fixed oarlocks.
 
Hi, Dave~

Here are the beveled chocks I mentioned - beveled on 2 axes:

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Someday we should start a post on Oarlock Stanchions overall.

All the best,

SJS
 
Steve, what you show is what I played around with during my build.... I was working on a lower profile version, but the same double axes idea. In the end I decided that the details in the construction, having to tether them so not to lose them, and storage were not worth it to me. I worked on a similar concept motorboard too so I could switch from sailing to motoring. In the end, I mounted the gudgeons where they did not interfere with the outboard at all. If I can find the pictures I will post ehem up just for posterity....
 
The Highlands Box is almost complete. Motor board has been West system expoxied and attached with thru bolts, transom handles have been attached. The BBSB has been painted with Pettit duck boat paint. The last things that need to be completed are laying up 2 hatch covers and painting them, running a fuel line under the deck with a deck fitting and installing the canvases. Then she will be ready for her maiden voyage.

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Good morning, Larry~

Spectacular! I am very happy for you.

Question: How are your hatches secured?

SJS
thanks Steve. The hatches are very tightly fitted not sure if I will need a bungee and some hardware to hold them down when trailering going to need to speak to Marty about that but so far the front hatch that is completed has a very tight custom fit
 
I have been following along with great interest. Looks like you'll have something to be proud of and be able to get a lot of enjoyment out of for years to come.

Thanks for taking the time to share it all along the way!

Is he going to put a dodger of some sort on her? I would be interested in seeing that too.

Jon
 
Will be interested in how the hatches are secured too. Working with Brian Garman on his sneakbox modifications this summer. He is working on a sneakbox built in NJ.... glass hull semi-V hull with a wood top. It did not provide sufficient boot space under the back deck to properly hunt off the transom so I suggested a rear hatch which effectively raised the deck area some 3 or 4 inches. We are working on a way to secure the hatch now without deck mountings. Not sure we can do it without too much complexity.
 
Larry & Dave~

I've seen lots of hatches where a pair of brass pins in the hatch mates with sockets in the coaming to hold one end of the hatch down. The other end is held with some sort of hardware - even something as simple as a brass hook-and-eye. On the Skidmore Scooter last year I used hooks-and-eyes both fore and aft. It would be easy, though, to install a couple of pins on the inside of the hatch's aft coaming. I would use #14 brass wood screws and grind their heads off once they were driven into place. Corresponding sockets would be bored into the after face of the aft coaming. So, when you put the hatch in place, you start by sliding the after end forward so the pins engage - then drop the forward end down and secure the hook. I always put the eye on the deck so I can "adjust' it for a snug fit.

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All the best,

SJS
 
John thanks I will enjoy it when I get to use it.

I will continue to post pictures until she is complete. The canvas that I will be using will be exactly like below. I will get better pictures of the Dodgers as we go along but this is from 3 Tuckerton shows ago. I believe this is Craig F's fathers Highlands Box

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The pic from the Tuckerton show above was Marty's stock boat that he brings to the shows. My dad's was at the show the year prior to that. He doesn't have the canvas for the dog.

He uses bungee cords attached to the deck to keep the hatches secure.

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Thanks Craig yeah I forgot that your dad has the smaller forward hatch and only one set of canvas. Just shows how you can change the configurations around a little
 
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