Homemade canoe rack

A

Andrew Schaefer

Active member
As some of you know, I'm preparing for a cross country move here in the next few weeks. This presented one problem, I own a canoe and a boat. I normally haul the canoe around in the bed of the truck (8 foot bed, 15 foot canoe). Obviously I can't do that when I'm trailering the boat, and the boat is only 14 feet long, so It's too small to piggy back the canoe in. So, I was initially planing on selling the canoe and then buying a new one sometime down the road. Then I got to thinking how big a pain that would be, especially since I would likely have to be without one for the remainder of the duck season. If I had a rack where I could elevate the canoe over the cab of the truck, I'd be in business, but I don't feel like dropping $200 on a commercial rack (the canoe isn't even worth that much). so, I got to looking around on the interwebs and saw several different canoe/ladder racks people have made at home. Most are either 2x4 or 2x6 pressure treated lumber.

If I do this, I need to be able to do it fairly quickly on a budget. I think I could build something out of lumber for $50 or so. Safety is also a top concern, since it's going to be going down the road at 70 mph. Has anyone here made something like this? Any opinions or insights?
 
It should be pretty simple and easy to do. I have made them in the past. Does your truck have stake pockets?
You will need four 2 by 4, uprights, and two cross supports I would suggest 6 inch wide 5/4 decking, and some diagonals to stop fore/aft rocking. If you have stake pockets use the middle stake pocket for the diagonal supports. Use pressure treated
If you do not have pockets then it is a little more complex as you need a support along the bed rail in addition to attach the upright to. When I made mine for a truck without pockets I ran the upright down to the truck bed and the diagonals from the truck bed up. to the bedrail. It also needed a cross member close to the bed flor in addition to the top support cross member to prevent side to side racking.
Use carriage bolts as fasteners not screws or nails. You can replace some of the carriage bolts with eye bolt to serve as a tie down location.
Depending on the design $50.00 may be a little light but you can easily keep it under $100.
The one I built for my 89 S10, served that truck for 10+ years and 180k+ miles, then once the truck was sold a stand alone canoe stand, for another 16 years, I just took it apart and re-used portions for a firewood rack.
 
The truck has stake pockets, but they aren't big enough for a 2x4. I considered making something I could clamp to the bed rail like you do with a topper, but can't think of a good quick way to attach the uprights to it, so I'm leaning the direction of building it so it sits in the bed.
 
Andrew~

Long ago, I built a pair of racks for my 1983 Ford Ranger. It still had stake pockets - I think the pockets were 1.5" by 2.5".

However, I have also piggy-backed 2 boats on a single trailer and I would strongly consider piggy-backing the canoe on your 14-foot boat. I can envision a simple 2x4 rectangular frame to support the canoe on the gunwales of your boat. Of course, the canoe would ride upside down.

Best of luck with your journey - and I hope both vessels arrive in fine fettle.

SJS

 
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However, I have also piggy-backed 2 boats on a single trailer and I would strongly consider piggy-backing the canoe on your 14-foot boat. I can envision a simple 2x4 rectangular frame to support the canoe on the gunwales of your boat. Of course, the canoe would ride upside down.
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I'll second this idea. Should take less lumber and also sit lower to the ground and thus less wind resistance than if above your truck on a rack.
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Elaborate racks are simply not necessary. I have carried canoes on a pickup for 35 years and just put it on top of the cab of my truck. I now use Yakima Racks but they are not necessary. Get 4 foam blocks that snap on the gunnels to cushion the roof.
http://www.cabelas.com/product/Malone-Canoe-and-Kayak-Carrier-Blocks-and-Kits/1157039.uts?productVariantId=2876931&WT.tsrc=PPC&WT.mc_id=GoogleProductAds&WT.z_mc_id1=03141671&rid=20&gclid=CIOW45WRz88CFcpbhgodwSUF0g&gclsrc=aw.ds
Balance the center of gravity on the roof. Use two tie downs from each of the end caps of the canoe to the corners of the truck. Also tie a couple of lines across the top from side to side. Safe, stable and cheap. I have driven thousands of miles with foam blocks and it works well.
There is one issue that you will have to figure out with this system and that is how to secure the lines crossing the roof. Most rain gutters are a thing of the past. Back when there were gutters folks used metal clips to attach lines to the gutters. Newer trucks won't have this feature. I open the doors and then I take parachute cord or small nylon cord and tie across the roof and attach the lines with a bowline around door pillars and secure it with a truckers hitch.
http://www.animatedknots.com/truckers/#ScrollPointhe
Also beware the metal hooks to attach lines and straps that come with the kits. I don' t trust hooks. They can come unhooked. I prefer a proper knot like a bowline. It won't come off until you untie it.
The truckers hitch gives you a mechanism to turn the rope into a block and tackle system and you can snug the rope down very smartly. Use caution when tightening as it exerts enough power to oilcan your roof if you get carried away. Snug it enough that your tie downs twang when snapped and you will do fine. I use the truckers hitch for the two tie downs across the roof and also for the four tie downs going to the four corners of the truck.
If the door post tie down is not an option I tie off to grab handles that are often found near the windows. Shut the door after tying it on and hit the highway. I also remember tying parachute cord loops through the brackets that the shoulder belt goes through on my crew cab but I would not use that if you have passengers belted in there.
You can carry your canoe anywhere with this system and it will cost under ten bucks. Stow the blocks behind your seat when not in use and it will be handy whenever you get the urge to paddle.
 
You can do a combination as well. Using both the pockets and a bed rail piece. Utilizing a bed rail will effectively increase the depth of your bed. Except when reaching over the side I consider this a good thing. I have a commercial made rack now but I leave the bed rails attached all the time as they protect the truck bed rails and make tying stuff in easier.
It is not a big issue that the pockets are smaller than a 2 by 4. Just notch them so the fit. The notch if correctly size will help stop forward aft racking.
You can skip the rack and go from the tail gate to the cab, but I would not suggest that as the canoe sit at a poor angle but many do it. You can also just make a rear rack and use the cab roof for the front.
 
For a Ford Ranger years ago I:

Notched 2 x4's for the back stake pockets so they ran parallel to the bed

Ran slotted angle across and connected with lag bolts

Used foam bumpers and tie down for the front.

Ratchet strapped the back to the slotted angle.

Tied front ties to bumper and rear ties to safety chain loops on receiver hitch.

Hauled this rig several thousand miles. Also used to carry small 12' v-hull.

Other than the angle, I think I had everything in scrap from other projects.
 
For a trip to Manitoba i made a rack from four 4x4s cut just a little higher than the truck cab height. Then i boxes them in with 2x6s. I set the whole thing inside the truck box with the 4x4 s acting as legs resting on the bed floor. I attached U bolts about halfway up each leg then used a load binder off each tie off point in the truck bed frame to secure. I only used it once and now sits in the yard as a stationary rack. if you need a pic i can get one.
 
Or find a Fulton Canoe caddy on sale for $70 or find one for less off Craigslist. Then get some foam pipe insulation and attach to the gunnel of the canoe. Put canoe on Canoe Caddy and foam covered gunnels on Truck cab. Tie off at both ends for stability.


You can get the Canoe Caddy to work with a trailer hitch for towing other stuff. I have used this technique for some time and it relatively cheap and easy to use and remove when not needed. Canoe caddy can then be used for other purpose than carrying the canoe on top of the truck.


Mark W
 
Andrew~

I have always been a fan of custom, home-made roof racks - for carrying boats and lumber.

Here is how I made a pair for my Ford Ranger. They provided prodigious service over the 13 years I had the '83 pickup (although the Ford steel at the stake pockets failed before my racks did). I put a pair of boat cleats on the underside of each crossbar at about the width of the canoe gunwales in that location. So, I lashed it - with 1/4-inch nylon - only at the crossbars. Never needed lines on the bow or stern.

I had some nice vertical grain Fir for the uprights and crossbars and used Oak for the knees. And, I padded the crossbars with some heavy cotton webbing (I would use nylon or polypropylene today).

Roof%20Rack%20-%20Ranger%20001_zps0xnlhoue.jpg


I use the same approach on my current ride - another 13-year-old.

Element%20with%20Canvasback%203L_zpshvzruupo.jpg


Whatever you do - remember that every vehicle looks better with a canoe on top!

All the best,

SJS

 
Steve,
Thanks for the drawing. How did you keep the uprights fixed in said stake pockets? The only thing I can think of is a lag bolt and a washer or plate.

All,
Thanks for all the ideas thus far. After reconsidering my approach and sleeping on it for a night, I still think some sort of bed rack will be the best option. I've looked it over and I just don't think there's an easy way to piggy back the canoe on the boat without removing the bow mount trolling motor and/or the outboard, which defeats the purpose of piggy backing. Right now, I'm leaning towards a sit-in-bed design. I'm a little hesitant to go with something mounted in the stake pockets because the dimension of lumber I could fit in there seems a little thin, but we'll see. I've got til next week to figure something out. Whatever I wind up doing, I'll be sure to post some pictures.
 
Good morning, Andrew~

I did not use fasteners to keep the racks in the stake pockets. Gravity and friction did the job. This worked well on a friend's F-150, too.

All the best,

SJS
 
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