How are you transporting dekes these days

Dave M

Dave M

Well-known member
While working on the boat this past weekend i was trying to figure out the best way to have my decoys ready for deployment . I want a way to have them rigged so that all i need to do is to pull up to the honey hole and throw them over with weights attached , thinking the same for my longlines as well . I considering going with some decoy bags that will attach to the inside of my cockpit so all i need to do is pull and launch them off the side . What are you guys using and could i get some pictures of what you use for reference ?


Thanks
 
dave one thing too consider i was going too have some built in storage for my goose spread ie bags atattched too the side of the hull but i got too planning it out and the dog bailing out the side became the issue there so now i just use bags im a big fan of avery floating bags just my 02
 
Pete McMiller has a great setup for his diver long lines. Round collapseable bags. If you just stuff them in and pull them out they work almost automatic...if you are careful, you will tangle everything up. Sutto had similar only you unsnapped the dekes and jammed the line in a box. I think Lou uses 55gal drums. You can put ot and pick up at the same speed.
 
Dave,

I use two gunnel bags for 1 dozen goose decoys, see pic. they're shown with individual weights, but that's not how i have them rigged any longer. they are strung together in two lines of 6. just start with the lead goose and pull and drop each deke. the lead goose has a weight and I add a weight to the last goose if there's little current to keep them from bunching, otherwise it can become a clusterf***.

For individual geese i made wrap-around circle weights that slip over the neck. just pull off the weight and toss or set the deke where you want it. don't have to fool with all that unwrapping. it makes deploying faster, but up is a about the same. sorry no pics of the weights.

if you're in shallow water, try texas rigging your duck dekes. i've never transported texas rigged dekes in a boat, not sure how well it would work.

View attachment PotomacHunt 018 (Medium) (Small).jpg

View attachment PotomacHunt 018 (Medium) (Small).jpg
 
Jason Russell came out in Jan. 07 and showed me how to do it in 12 pocket bags leaving the birds rigged....

I still disconnect the Scoter decoys because they get stacked on the floor but the other stuff; Goldeneyes, Harlequins, etc., stay on the lines and come out of, and back into, the individual pockets on the 12 pocket bags....This year those bag will hang over the top of the blind rail and that will make it even easier with the neatest part being that if I have two people in the boat besides me I can back down while they both set a line from the bags on opposite sides.....

If that works like I think it will I'll have the same bags made for the Scoter rigs for next season.....

EASY PEASY JAPANESEY.....

Steve
 
are you able to share the secret of leaving the decoys rigged to long lines and putting in 12 pockect bags? I have given thought to attaching two rods sticking up from the top of the bag and wrapping the mainline around them then placing each decoy in a slot. Haven;t tried it it though.
 
you just need to take a little time, and care, to make sure that the line between the decoys goes into the bag in front of the keel, (whichever way the decoy is facing--I face all of mine the same way because with all the keels facing the same direction the bag will naturally "lean" that direction), and that you get as much of the slack line tucked into the bags as possible.

Put a decoy in the pocket, then a second one and tuck the line between the two into the first pocket. Continue to the sixth pocket, turn the corner and come back to the start. With the line in front of the keel when you pull the decoy out of the pocket the line can't hang on a hed or tail.

I'm thinking seriously about shortening my long lines so that there is only 6' or so at each end. I'll splice a loop into the line, (rather Greg Kurz will splice a loop into the ends), and then I'll use droppers that are disconnected from each end to even further simplify things.

I haven't had the big boat in the water yet this year....heck the biggest decoy rig I've set so far has been (4) decoys...so don't have any pictures of it rigged that way....as soon as I use it the first time I'll try to get some photos that show it....

Steve
 
Steve,

I have basically the same system you mention with the bags. I will add that I have only 12" droppers and have actually experimented with them only being 6" on some of my lines and testing them with my dog Buck. He has NO issues with going over the lines. I hear constantly guys are worried about that and then drop them like 18" to 24" or more, this leads to tangles IMHO and there are some that do even further thinking they will DRIVE the boat through the decoys. This is inconceivable to me since my fear of wrapping line and screwing up my way home is pre-eminent in my mind.

Anyhow, if you go about 1-2 feet after the end decoy, tie a bowline knot and then have your weights on droppers with a long line clip on the end of it to snatch the loop you will have even less tangles.

I agree with tucking all the excess cord in EACH pocket with THAT decoy. Also, stiffer line in opinion is nicer than limp line. I have 120#tarred line but truly wish it was 1/4 diamond braid.


Finally, I buy all my bags from the link below. I know others like Dianna's bags, or Dave's bags, or....but I can assure you that after 4 years my bags have seen a lot of hunting and they are no worse for the wear. I can stuff all my oversized cork/wooden Cans into them or a doz GHG Redheads in them no problem. Not sure about oversized Eiders though, but I don't hunt them too often in Green Bay.
http://www.bagdepot.com/hunting_final/hg8/hg_282.htm

item HG-282
$28.95, mallard green, tan, or brown.

you will notice the price is pretty sweet.

I have also seen the leaf bags deal of Pete McMiller and also Andrew Holley's systems and I will say the short droppers again make a lot of sense, along with DON'T grab the droppers, just the main line and they will almost always work out.

I have seen Scott Wisnewski's (Doctari on the web) system as well, and it is basically the same as the leaf bag except he uses the huge avery bags with NO mesh (I think they are like 70/bag though) and the HUGE Toledo decoys. He can get 18 per bag, tight putting them in, but never tangles. He mentioned smaller decoys though is a problem since they shift around in transport and he feels the key to his system is the size of the decoy and the fit in the bag.
 
Dave,

here's a pic of my wrap-around anchor for single geese dekes. it makes deploying them very efficient. i keep 5 to 6 feet of line on them. the weight is about 1 pound. i found a mold for it on e-bay. it will hold the deke right where you put it and unwind as the tide rises. it also completely unwinds when you pick them up, but it's no slower than winding around the keel or around the body. deployment is the key.

I've used the H-style wrap around anchor for duck decoys, but i don't like them. they deploy fast enough and hold enough line, but they're too small to hold with gloves. the non-tangle line works best with these as it stays put when tucked in the anchor slot, but it doesn't unwind by itself al the time.

On the string of geese, i keep a cheap clip (fish stringer clips from walmart) on each end of the line so i can easily remove them from a string and clip on a weight if i want to use them as singles.

View attachment weights 002 (Small).jpg
View attachment weights 003 (Small).jpg

View attachment weights 002 (Small).jpg
View attachment weights 003 (Small).jpg
 
Larry ,


Those just untwist as they are going to the bottom ? good idea , i think i will make a mold up on the cnc machine this week , you showed a picture of the TDB with the bags hanging outside the cockpit , pros and cons ? besides the dekes flying off the side of the boat . Thanks



Dave
 
Guys ,

Thanks for all the tips !!!! can go wrong here , i think i will try the barrel trick 1st bought a few today to try , if it does not work the wife has new gardening barrels of coarse they will be crap brown but oh well. As you guys may know the cackler has limited room in the cockpit area if built to plan , i usually bungee they bags to my front deck out in front of the dodger works great and leaves alot of room but i uusally endup dropping afew dekes before i get the bags secured . I think i can stand the barrels up and they will stand steadier than a bag rolling around the deck . I will keep everyone up to date what i do . At the risk of being a real pain in the a#$ could someone post how they arrange the lines in a barrel setup ? I assume the anchors then the long line with dekes clipped and then the last anchor drop the 1st anchor and then dump the dekes over one at a time until the last anchor is out ? it just seems like a knot waiting to happen . Thanks again


Dave
 
Dave,

I use sash wts for anchors most of the time though if it's going to be rough or real deep I'll go to 8# mushroom anchors. The weights NEVER go in the bags unless you want to ensure you get all tangled up. I carry the wts in a milk crate or bucket. Each wt. has a wire or rope ring on the end to hook to with a long line clip.

My long line is 1/4" diamond braid nylon and is very stiff. I get it from Decoy Rigs in Indiana. My droppers are 1/8" diamond braid and they are also somewhat stiff though not like the long line and are cut to 40" before knots. My long lines are 125 ft. long with decoys spaced about 8 ft. apart which equals a dozen Mag Toledos and about 12-15 ft. of line on each end.

When I load a bag I just toss the line in the bottom of the bag and continue to throw line along with decoys as I pull them in. The more you try to put them "just so" the more you will screw it up. When the last decoy is in the bag, stuff the rest of the line in and attach the last clip to the edge of the bag or the handle. Reverse to get the decoys out. Just remember to handle the line NOT the decoys, kind of like fly fishing, work with the line not the fly (or decoy).

I very rarely get a tangle though my bags are always upright. The times I have had a problem the bags had been laying down and jiggled for a while which moved everything around. Try this system and if you have any problems I can help you when I come out in December.

If this isn't clear, let me know and I can try to get some pics loaded.
 
Pete,

I know you wont believe me but I use the leaf bag setup as well. When running sash weights you CAN leave the bottom wieght on the line. Drop the weight and the dropper line into the bottom and then start putting decoys in. You wont get a tangle and its just one more step to skip in the morning when setting lines.

try it on one bag I promiss you wont get a tangle :)

Now the top weight has to come of.. hahaha
 
Brandon,

I'm sure your right if the bags stay upright all the time. On very rare occasions I need to lay mine down and I can just imagine what that sash wt would be doing for a couple hundred miles if it had it's way. Even with having to clip on a weight each morning, it is still by far and away the best system I have ever used.
 
Dave,

yes, gravity gets ahold of anchors and takes them to the bottom...like a broken yo-yo.
the gunnel bags on the outside my tdb have worked great. you might notice a bungee cord over the necks to keep the dekes from bouncing out of the bags while running down the road. Outside of the boat was really the only practical place i could think of for that boat. most people put them inside. the only con i can think of is that i can't lock up the dekes by locking on the cockpit cover. i only use the cover when on a road trip and staying at a hotel..and that's rarely. the bags are easily removed. wish i had gotten them with some type of top that would hold the dekes in place when the bags is removed and palced on its side in the truck.
 
Pete,
Yes that would be a good reason not to leave them on. My boat is packed for a 800 mile trip starting Thursday AM but the bags are staying upright with a few zip ties between the handles to keep the decoys from jumping out!

I use a loop on the end of my long lines and then have a longline clip tied to the weights that I clip on.


Another interesting way to run long lines I have seen is to have the decoys permanently attached with tied on drops and store the lines and decoys in a dufflebag. I never would have beleived it but my buddy runs all 10 of his lines out of dufflebags like this. He needs them to be portable since he hunts out of different boats almost every day sometime just a small "skiff" ( large kayak).
 
If you can't get a hold of sash weights. In my location I use 64oz juice bottles filled with cement with ring bolt. Just cut a little off the top of the bottle to put in the cement. I like them because they stack nice and the plastic doesn't scratch the paint on the boat. I used quart milk bottles but are too light and gallon bottles to heavy.
 
I'm another fan of the leaf bags as Pete, and Brandon have described. I can get 3 bags on the foredeck of the Broadbill. I temporarily tie the bag handles together while I'm underway so they stay on the boat.
A bit of free advice on the leaf bags, buy a grommit kit from the hardware store and add a couple grommets to the bottom of the bags to act as drainage holes. Trust me, if the bag(s) tip and fill with water (how it happened I still don't know!) they are a real bitch to get back on the boat AND the decoys have a way of floating out into a GIANT tangled mess. The minor cost of the grommet kit and a few minutes of your time is well worth it!!

15hpBroadbillx.jpg

 
We run big spreads out of big utility boats, with an emphasis on dumbing it down so that you can pick a spread and redeploy it as quickly as possible in all kinds of seas.

For all our toting, we like same-size plastic laundry baskets. The baskets stack well when they're full, weigh little, don't collect (much) water, and can be nested as you empty them, taking up little space in the boat when you set up to hunt.

Our single-rigged dekes have h-style anchors of a traditional family design. Wind 'em up 'til there's a foot of line left, pull a loop over the ear of the H, and drop in the basket. To deploy, pull a deke out, uncinch the loop around the ear, and drop in the drink. It'll unwind itself.

Our diver rigs are based on a 10-block longline per basket. The longlines have the dekes tied permanently to the motherline on 15" droppers, about 3' between blocks. No clips between dropper and mother; a clip on each end of the dropper so you can clip them together and make lines of 30 or 40.

Counterintuitively, we run lighter braid for the motherline and reserve the heavier, stiff braid for the droppers. This makes the motherline drop down deeper (even without the weight of clips) and fight tides better, making life easier for dawgs. It's also lots easier to handle in the dark. It's not what most guys do but we've tried it both ways, and this way works better.

Picking up, we just chuck the dekes into the baskets in any old order, though the last deke into the basket gets the free end of the motherline wrapped around its neck a couple times, so you can easily ID it as the first one to come out the next time. As long as you pick up the right decoy first, and handle the rig by the motherline and not the droppers, they will almost always come out of the basket smoothly.

If I'm hunting out of an 18 Alaskan I run 120 on longlines and another 20-30 single-rigged dekes. If hunting out of a 20 I run 150-180 on longlines and another 20-30 singles. I regularly deploy/recover these sets single handed.
 
Brian,

That is one of the problems with that particular bag. The newer ones particularly the Toro red and black bags have drains built in. The other thing I never liked about the green ones was the velcro on the bottom to collapse the bags. Seems like when ever I wanted to collapse a bag the velcro was full of mud and frozen solid. The Toro bags I use most have clips for 1" webbing that, so far, has been easy to use.
 
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