Hudson River Duck Skiff - RESTORATION - Floorboards, Cockpit Hatch, Decks...

The work continues....


All hardware was removed - including 2 nice pieces on the stem.



View attachment sm TD 14 Stem with hardware removed.JPG



However, once the rubrails were removed, the wood at the top of the stem crumbled from too many fasteners.


View attachment sm TD 40 Stem.JPG



So, the Sawzall excised the broken wood. Remaining nails required a metal-cutting blade. Note the decking thickness (thin-ness?) - just 3/8-inch Cedar planking.


View attachment sm TD 43A Stem sawn out.JPG



There is nothing truly structural here - so there was no need to scarph in this "dutchman". I used Cypress for this job.


View attachment sm TD 44 Stem dutchman.JPG



No fasteners - just epoxy thickened with milled fibers - because adhesion is important here. When the cloth sheathing is applied and hardware re-installed, this little piece will once again be full of fasteners.


View attachment sm TD 49 Stem repair epoxied in place.JPG



The next job was one of those that seems simple - but requires lots of steps to do it correctly: tending to the broken hull frame. It had been repaired earlier with the time-honored approach of "sistering" - installing a new frame immediately next to the broken one. A length of White Oak was steamed and fastened through the hull - but it, too, failed.


View attachment sm TDA 12 - Broken frame and sister.JPG



The first step was to make a pattern of the "correct" hull shape. I did this by scribing a piece of plywood to the "good side"- immediately opposite the broken frames.


View attachment sm TDB 10 Template for frame - on good side.JPG



The broken frames allowed for a "hard spot" - a bulge in the hull of bout 3/8-inch.


View attachment sm TDC 13 Broken frame gap.jpg



I used the pattern to make a jig from 3/4-inch Pine. I covered the upper edge with cellophane tape then ripped 4 pieces of 1/8-inch White Ash on the table saw. Each was slathered with straight epoxy and clamped up.


View attachment sm TDD 16 Laminated frame clamped in jig.JPG



Stay tuned.....


SJS




View attachment sm TD 43A Stem sawn out.JPG
 
Frame Repair Part B....


The 4 layers of 1/8-inch White Ash will yield a finished thickness of 1/2-inch. I used wide stock (one inch +) so I can later dress the new frame to about 3/4-inch in width. I placed waxed paper on the top layer to prevent the clamp pads from sticking to the Ash.



View attachment sm TDE 17 Closeup of 4 layers in clamp.JPG



The next day it comes off the jig - and needs lots of attention.


View attachment sm TDF 02 Frame off jig.JPG



Scrapers and the electric plane do the job.


View attachment sm TDG 03 Frame scraped and planed.JPG



I planed one side down with the frame in the vise. I used the table saw to establish the final width.


View attachment sm TDH 04B Frame planed.JPG



Here's the frame cut to length and shaped - ready for installation.


View attachment sm TDI 18 Frame fit and ready for installation.JPG



I decided to replace the old "sister rib" and maintain the original frame. A wood-cutting blade on the oscillating tool removed it piece by piece.


(On the other hand.... I rarely use my multi-tool - perhaps a couple of times per year, mostly for detail sanding of hard-to-reach spots. So, when I tried to change the sanding head to the cutting head, I was flummoxed. I consulted the Owners Manual and encountered one of those Modern Life Frustrations. The so-called instructions used no words at all! Instead, 3 less-than-helpful drawings provided no useful information. Only YouTube got me where I needed to go.... End of Rant)


View attachment sm TDJ 19 Removing sister frame.JPG



The sister rib had been fastened with both bronze screws and steel clench nails.


View attachment sm TDK 20 Frame remnants and fasteners.JPG



A scraper cleaned up the area for the new frame and its epoxy.


View attachment sm TDL 21 Scraping frame bed.JPG



Another challenge was forcing the hull planking to mate with the new frame - and so minimize the "hard spot". I began with tacking a chock to the shop ceiling.


View attachment sm TDM 22A Celing cleat tacked in place.JPG



Then I cut a length of White Ash to precise length so it would serve as a downward-forcing strut.


View attachment sm TDN 22 Strut to shop ceiling.JPG



Continued in next post....


SJS



































 
Last edited:
Frame Repair Part C ~


The bottom end of the strut was gently rounded so that it could be tapped into place without harming the new frame.


View attachment sm TDO 24 Strut bottom tapped into place.JPG



Then, I used a length of White Cedar (carving wood) to force the bottom planking upward - encouraged by 3-pound sledge. Once everything was dry-fitted, I bored the screw holes from below.




View attachment sm TDP 23 Cedar post to hull.JPG



I used epoxy thickened with milled fibers because adhesion was the most important need here. I first masked the surrounding areas so the hoped-for squeeze-out left minimal staining.


View attachment sm TDQ 46 New frame epoxied in place.JPG



Stainless steel screws were driven from below - making sure each one was slightly below "flush". As the hull planks are only 3/8-inch thick, the screws cannot be driven too deeply.


View attachment sm TDR 48 New frame screwed from below.JPG



I will let this job cure for a full 24 hours before removing the strut and post.


View attachment sm TDS 47 Glued up overnight.JPG



One other job...new oarlock stanchions. The existing stanchions were mounted on 1/2-inch thick boards - not sure why. So, I decided to make new stanchions one-half-inch taller than these. Removal of the steel bolts was challenging - so once again Mister Sawzall came to the rescue.



View attachment sm TD 08 Oarlock stanchion a.JPG



I used Black Locust to make the new pair. They are longer because I always like to have the fasteners "capture" the full height of the piece. The bolts on original pair pulled from about an inch below the top of the stanchions. This could allow the stanchion wood to split along its grain at the height of the bolts - and thereby fail.


View attachment sm TD 30 Stanchions on drill press.JPG



Here they are fully bored, shaped and sanded. Note that the hole for the actual oarlock socket extends through the stanchion - so it can drain.


View attachment sm TD 31 Stanchions shaped bored sanded.JPG



Here they are sealed with Spar Varnish and with their 5/16" s/s carriage bolts. They will be installed AFTER the decks are re-covered.


View attachment sm TD 32B Stanchions plus hdwr.JPG





Now back to the shop.....





All the best,


SJS
 
Another productive day....


This late-Summer weather - dry air and highs in the low 70s - with chilly nights - really restores my initiative.


The deck seams have all been filled - epoxy thickened with fairing compound - and sanded to a fare-thee-well. Actually, I just use 60-grit on the orbital sander because everything will be sheathed with epoxy and 'glass (or Dynel).


[CLICK on any photo to enlarge]



View attachment sm TD6 - 01 Sanding decks.JPG



Here's the stem after fairing and final shaping.


View attachment sm TD6 - 02 Stem faired.JPG



The next task was an "outside job". I was going to grind off the remainder of the paint on the bottom and sides - but switched to my preferred method: burning and scraping.


Note that there are 2 other gunning vessels in this photo - and one more in the shop.



View attachment sm TD6 - 04 Outside job.JPG



My Bernzomatic and a sharp scraper made short work of the 20 % or so of the hull paint that still needed removal.


View attachment sm TD6 - 03 Torch and scraper.JPG



Here's a clean plank next to a "before"plank.


View attachment sm TD6 - 07 Scraped plank v painted.JPG



There are some proud nails in the White Oak keel. They'll get ground flush and filled.


View attachment sm TD6 - 05 Proud nails in keel.JPG



Not sure what to do with this "hook" at the aft end of the keel - simply grind the hardware and then fair it a bit more elegantly - or just plane the hook off altogether. I wish I knew its original purpose. All I can think of is that it may have supported hardware at one time - maybe a lower gudgeon for a rudder.



View attachment sm TD6 - 06A - Hook in keel.JPG



I brought her back into the shop to fill some of the seams - and to fillet the hollow where the bottom planks meet the chine. I did this so the cloth will have a better chance of sticking.


View attachment sm TD6 - 09 Chine.JPG



Here's the fillet - shaped with a squeegee.


View attachment sm TD6 - 08 Fillet at chine.JPG



One more photo on the next post.....

SJS

View attachment sm TD6 - 04 Outside job.JPG
 
All~


Well, I surely thought Hurricane Dorian would not affect my progress on this old Skiff. I worked filling seams et cetera on the hull throughout Saturday - as well as bits on the other 3 vessels I am ministering to right now - but ran out of a key ingredient at the end of the day. I was using up my 5-quart "pail" of fairing compound and realized that U. S. Composites would be closed on Sunday and maybe on Labor Day as well. More important, they are based in West Palm Beach, Florida - due west of Freeport, Bahamas. It seems that the "emergency" at Pencil Brook Boatworks pales.... At least I have not been ordered to evacuate.


So, I used the last of the fairing compound on Sunday and switched on Plan B on Labor Day. I began building a set of floorboards for her. (Actually, being The Great Terminology Stickler that I am - I believe these would be more properly referred to as "duckboards" because they are fully removable. Floorboards in larger vessels are typically fastened in place with perhaps one or more boards easily removable to bailing et cetera.)


This hull has lots of deadrise (vee),so I could not make the duckboards as wide as the cockpit opening without raising them too high off the bottom. So, I began by marking points at most frames where 3 inches in from the cockpit coming would fall. I made this jig to simplify the process.



[CLICK to enlarge any image]



View attachment sm FB 01 Measuring insets.JPG



The next step was to measure the width of each cleat (the crosswise framing on the bottom of the duckboard).


View attachment sm FB 02 Cleats cut to length.JPG



Then I used a compass to scribe the shape of the bottom on each cleat. I wanted to leave about 3/4-inch of material at each end of the cleat for fasteners.


View attachment sm FB 03 Scribing to hull.JPG



On the bench, I used a piece of PVC lumber as a batten to draw a fair curve on each cleat.


View attachment sm FB 04 Fairing curve.JPG



I sawed each out on the band saw - including the notch for the keel..


View attachment sm FB 05 Cleat cut to shape.JPG



Then I checked each one for fit.


View attachment sm FB 06 Checking fit.JPG



So, I repeated the procedure 3 more times.


View attachment sm FB 08 Repeat.JPG


No daylight beneath this fit!



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Then I tested for lumps or hollows against the central duckboard plank. The two inner frames are about 1/4-inch lower than the ends - as I had hoped. This will let the board be sprung a bit downward over a central "fastener" (not quite sure how I will retain the board - probably a single turnbutton).


Satisfied, I marked the location of each cleat spacing on the center plank.


View attachment sm FB 09 Checking for fairness fore and aft.JPG



More to come......


SJS




View attachment sm FB 07 No daylight.JPG
 
Floorboards continued....


Next step was to ease the bearing edges of each cleat - to minimize chafe and wear on the hull planking on which each cleat rests. I used a block plane and a sanding block.



View attachment sm FB 10 easing bearing edges.JPG



A closer shot of the result.


View attachment sm FB 11 Eased edges closeup.JPG



All four ready to install.


View attachment sm FB 12 Ready to install.JPG



The upper edges of the plank was eased as well - to avoid the inevitable splintering once in use.


View attachment sm FB 13 Easing both upper edges.JPG



Screw holes - countersink and slip hole - were bored first.


View attachment sm FB 18 Countersink and slip hole.JPG


The cleats were fastened - with s/s flathead screws and Titebond III - to the center plank first. And, I tested it in the hull BEFORE the glue set up....



View attachment sm FB 14 Center plank fastened.jpg



Then, another batten was used to mark a nice fair curve for the outer edge. Both outer planks were clamped together then sawn at the same time.


View attachment sm FB 15 Fairing curve on eoutboard edges.JPG



Once again, I eased the upper edges of these planks before installation.



View attachment sm FB 17 Easing edges.JPG



In addition, I rounded over the lower edges - on the router table - also prior to installation.


View attachment sm FB 19 Router table.JPG



This area will be highly prone to damage as the gunner steps on the edges of the floorboard.


Stay tuned.....


SJS





















 
Floorboards continued....


Here is the rounded lower edge.



View attachment sm FB 20 Rounded lower edge.JPG



I used paint stirrers as spacers between the planks. This leaves a gap wide enough for water to pass through but still be cleaned out.


View attachment sm FB 21 Paint stirrer spacers.JPG



I clamped the outer planks in place using the cut-off pieces to help me square up the lamps and to avoid crushing the soft Pine.


View attachment sm FB 22 Clamping outer planks.JPG



All fastened below.


View attachment sm FB 23 Finished underside.JPG



Done from above.


View attachment sm FB 24 Finished - top.JPG



Now...about that one "proud" plank....


View attachment sm FB 25 Forward end Art Deco.JPG



I must confess that this began as a mistake. I had grabbed 3 pieces of half-inch clear Pine from the loft - presuming they were all the same length. As it happens, the one I used for the "king plank" was also about 1.5 inches longer than the other two. I did not discover this until after I had fastened the king plank to the cleat. I considered several options - including buying some additional boards from my lumberyard. I almost sawed the offending excess - had the Skilsaw plugged in and the cutting guide clamped and ready....


Then, I began to envision an Art Deco touch for this classic vessel. It's not the Chrysler Building nor even my Walker-Turner band saw - but the resulting shape is both pleasing to my eye AND it serves a useful function. It clearly identifies the forward end of the floorboard as the forward end of the floorboard. As I have long done with similar items - especially cockpit covers - I like to know which end is which in low light conditions. This floorboard is not quite symmetrical fore and aft so it'll be helpful to know which end goes toward the bow and which the stern.


In any event, the new floorboards fit!


Looking aft:



View attachment sm FB 26A - Installed looking aft.JPG



Looking forward:


View attachment sm FB 28 Installed forward end.JPG



The screw holes will get filled before paint goes on. More important, I still need to "dope out" my plan for holding the floorboard in place.


All the best,


SJS











 
Good morning, All~


Still awaiting my new batch of Fairing Compound - delayed by Hurricane Dorian - so I made a cockpit hatch for this old vessel.


First step was to cut the 2 side pieces from AC plywood and then clamp them to the cockpit coamings. The C side will be out - to be sheathed with 'glass - so I first fill any voids and blemishes with thickened epoxy and then sand everything while still on the bench.


[CLICK to enlarge any photo]



View attachment sm H 01 C side filled and sanded.JPG



I wanted to make the hatch just a bit larger than the cockpit itself so it would not bind. I made a set of spacers from 1/8-inch Masonite a few years back. They reside on a nail next to other measuring gear for jobs such as this.


View attachment sm H 02 Shims.JPG



Here is one earning its keep.


View attachment sm H 03 Shims clamped.JPG



Five spacers on each side and (later) 2 on each end.



View attachment sm H 04 Shims clamped - sides.JPG





I cut the sides to length with the ends beveled to match the angle with the fore and aft coamings.


View attachment sm H 05 Corner angle.JPG



Then I scribed the bottom of each end piece to the very low crown of the deck.


View attachment sm H 06 Scribing bottom edge.JPG



The top of each frame (2 end pieces and 3 mid-frames) got 1 inch of crown.


View attachment sm H 07 One-inch crown.JPG


Here they are clamped in place.


View attachment sm H 08 Fore and aft coaming clamped in place.JPG



Each mid-frame was cut to length. The ends of frames B and D were beveled to match the sides.


View attachment sm H 09 Middle frames fitted for length.JPG



Stay tuned,


SJS









 
Cockpit Hatch continued....


The 3 mid-frames each got their 1-inch crowns.


View attachment sm H 10 One-inch crown in middle frames.JPG



Note that one should never assume that any vessel is symmetrical, square or straight. In this case the port and starboard coamngs were not necessarily the same "height" at each frame - so careful marking of each was required before laying out the crown.


View attachment sm H 11 All frames crowned.JPG



A straight-edge placed along each crown found everything "dead on".


View attachment sm H 12 All crowns same height.JPG



The top edge of each side was beveled on the table saw to match the curvature of the frame crown.



View attachment sm H 13 Bevel sides on table saw.JPG



Before applying glue, I protected the shims, coamings and deck with some plastic.

View attachment sm H 14 Screw and glue corners.JPG



All the frames were fastened and allowed to cure overnight.


View attachment sm H 15 All frames scgewed and glued.JPG





Next, I clamped the rectangular top piece for marking.


View attachment sm H 16 Top panel rough fitted for scribing.JPG



I rough cut the edges - including the ends which each proved to be a bit out-of-square.


View attachment sm H 17 Rough cut to shape.JPG





I laid out the fastening lines for the 3 mid-frames.



View attachment sm H 18 Fastening lines marked.JPG



The top was fastened with bronze boat nails (7/8-inch #14) and Titebond III. I had planned to use 1-inch staples - but my Bostitch was not feeding the staples consistently....



View attachment sm H 18A Ring nails.JPG





....continued.....


SJS

















 
Cockpit Hatch continued.....


Here is the runout on the un-square aft end. The foreward end was not as bad - but un-square nonetheless.


View attachment sm H 19 Run out on unsquare top.JPG



After a night of curing, I rounded over all edges in prep for 'glassing.



View attachment sm H 20 Rounding all corners.JPG



This job calls for the "whatever works" approach. I did not use a router-with-roundover-bit, though, because the edge of the crowned top is not square.


View attachment sm H 21 Rounding tools.JPG



I then filled any fastener holes or defects. Finally, I sealed any raw wood - so it would not drink too much epoxy when I began 'glassing.


View attachment sm H 22 Filler and seal coat.JPG



The rounding process created some hollows in the soft areas between the hard rings in the Doug-fir plywood. So, I needed to do some additional filling and fairing on the aft end of the top.


View attachment sm H 23 Aft hollows filled.JPG



Later today - a bit of final sanding then I will 'glass the new Hatch.


All the best,


SJS











 
All~


The cockpit hatch has now been 'glassed - with Dynel cloth and epoxy resin.


View attachment sm TDH 01 Covered with Dynel.JPG



When in the "green stage" - generally tack-free but not yet hard - I trim the overhang from the edges with a utility knife.



View attachment sm TDH 03 EDges masked.JPG



I taped the top to retain the open-weave texture on the top with a clearly-defined smoother border.


View attachment sm TDH 03 EDges masked.JPG



The thickened epoxy (with fairing compound) will be carefully sanded before painting.


View attachment TDH 04 Rounded corners.JPG



Next: Covering the decks with Dynel.


SJS






View attachment sm TDH 03 EDges masked.JPG
 
Good morning, All~


I covered the decks with Dynel in 2 steps: either side of the cockpit first, then the stern and bow sections. I used Dynel because the decks had been covered with painted canvas. It was in very good shape for its age - over 100 years - but had a few holes and tears which could not be easily patched.


Dynel is often used to cover decks on wooden sailboats because it looks like the traditional canvas. I was surprised yesterday when I rolled up the original painted canvas to see how heavy it was. I believe the new covering will be significantly lighter.


All deck seams were first filled with thickened epoxy (resin + fairing compound). It took about 3 steps to get the decks smooth and fair - ready for 'glass. Then I masked all of the edges.



View attachment sm TDeck 01A.JPG



I prepared the side pieces to be overlapped by the foredeck and stern deck sections - because canvas was typically overlapped for about an inch at joints. Here I trimmed the ends and edges when the Dynel had cured to the "green stage" - several hours after application.



View attachment sm TDeck 01.JPG



The masking tape is also removed at this stage - after trimming to the line with a sharp utility knife.



View attachment sm TDeck 02.JPG



Here the decks are ready for their Dynel.



View attachment sm TDecks 04.JPG



Here is the finished lap joint.



View attachment sm TDecks 05.JPG



All done.


View attachment sm TDecks 06.JPG



It is common practice to not fill the weave and texture with Dynel on decks - to approximate canvas' grip.


View attachment sm TDecks 07.JPG





Next - the hull.


All the best,


SJS



 
Did you achieve a lighter ply layer with the Dynel? I found that it likes to suck-up resin and swell. I watched one video where it was pre-wetted and then rolled prior to being applied by two people who stretched it hard while rolling the resin impregnated ply over the work surface, a dory hull.
 
Good morning, Ric~


Actually - although having watched a couple of similar YouTubes - I wound up applying the Dynel much as I would conventional 'glass cloth. The big exception was that I was very mindful of avoiding too much resin.


I wet out the decks as usual - fully wetted but not pooling. Then I spread the Dynel, working it down into the resin and working out any potential wrinkles as I went. This gave a result that showed some uneven saturation but no oversaturation. Then I spot-wetted (with a foam brush on the side decks and a foam roller on the ends) as needed until I got the result I wanted: fully saturated with no pooling and no floating of the cloth. I did not topcoat later to fill the weave. (With 'glass, I usually do so during the green stage to avoid having to sand.)


I had used Dynel before - but a different brand - I think from Defender Industries. This Dynel came from Jamestown Distributors. It was easier to work with because it seemed to have a tighter weave and so less mis-shaping when handled.


All the best,


SJS

 
For solo application, as this reads, you discovered essentially the same thing that I did: letting it settle on the wet-out layer and absorb resin.helps considerably to keep the ply from moving around on the work surface...and foam rollers are part of the recipe.

I was impressed by Jamestown Distributor's product. I can't remember who I bought my first Dynel from, but I do order from Defender as well.

Best wishes for completion of this project to your high standards!
 
All~


Back from Tuckerton, I jumped back into the vessel in my shop - after cleaning and buttoning up the Sneakbox I brought back....


I began by filling the larger hull seams with narrow splines slathered in thickened epoxy (epoxy + fairing compound).



View attachment sm Hull 01 Splines in epoxy.JPG




The splines were tapped in with a wooden mallet. The fillet was spread with a putty knife and smoothed with a squeegee.


View attachment sm Hull 01B Splines in epoxy.JPG



I also used the same mixture to fill other seams and to create fillets both along the keel and at the chines - where the bottom planks meet the sides.


View attachment sm Hull 02 Chine fillet.JPG



Here is the bow - where keel and chines meet.


View attachment sm Hull 03 Fillets along keel and chine at bow.JPG



The first fairing was done with my electric plane - set just shy of 1/32 inch.


View attachment sm Hull 04 Splines faired with e-plane.JPG



Next was the orbital sander with 60-grit on it.



View attachment sm Hull 05A Fairing with orbital and 60 grit.JPG



Next I mark all the blemishes - begging for some filler.



View attachment sm Hull 06 Marking fill needs.JPG



Putty knife to the rescue.



View attachment sm Hull 07 Filling imperfections.JPG



Next comes the 'glass.


All the best,


SJS





 
Good morning, All~


Just about done with this venerable vessel.


The hull is now sealed tight and 'glassed.


View attachment sm TD 01 Bottom painted.JPG



New Bilge Drains are lubed with Lanolin


View attachment sm TD 02 Bilge drains with Lanolin.JPG



New Floorboards of half-inch White Pine.



View attachment TD 03 Floorboards.JPG



New Oarlock Stanchions - from Black Locust


View attachment TD 05 Oarlock Stanchion and Oar.JPG



Original bow hardware refurbished and re-installed.


View attachment sm TD 06 Bow Hardware B.JPG



Oars are White Ash with bronze locks and sockets. Chocks on afterdeck are for a Motor Board and a Stool Rack. Bright new Deck Cleat will be left to weather to a nice warm brown.



View attachment sm TD 08 From Astern.JPG



The accordion-style Stool Rack folds flat for storage.


View attachment sm TD 10 Stool Rack - folded flat.JPG



Here it is deployed.


View attachment sm TD 11 Stool Rack - mounted.JPG



The Motor Board fastens with 2 wing nuts - and is reversible so the trolling motor can mount on the starboard or port sides. The mounting holes through the 5'4 Mahogany are reinforced fore and aft with s/s fender washers glued in flush.



View attachment sm TD 12 Motor Board and Stool Rack.JPG



The Cockpit Hatch has a "forward arrow" painted in white - on its forward end!


View attachment sm TD 13 Hatch on boat.JPG



Step-by-step details to follow when I can find the time.


All the best,


SJS















 
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