Hull bottom covering?

A

Andrew Holley

Well-known member
Looking trying to finish the bottom of this boat by year end and have come to a cross road. What are your thoughts on what to put on the bottom of a boat?
  • Epoxy with Graphite powder? If so, how much sq ft would a pound of powder cover?
  • Super Slick, that they sell for airboat bottoms
  • Good quality high gloss marine paint (not nasty bottom paint, as I don't expect this boat to see salt water)

Super Slick is probably the best stuff out there, but, this boat isn't going to go through mud, only deeper water. At $100 per gallon and i am going to need two or three, not sure the extra cost is buying me anything?

Looked at Larry's (RAKA) website, one pound of graphite goes for $7.00, price sounds good, but no idea how much I need. Not that the boat is going to be tipped over for storage, but what about UV rays deteriating the epoxy?

Marine paint might be the cheapest option. But again what do I get for spending a extra buck or two?

Thoughts and opinions welcomed
 
I have used the graphite powder on canoe paddle tips. I seem to remember that the powder mixed with epoxy resists UV. I have used West Systems, and I believe their literature has coverage recommendations.

It's tough stuff, I wouldn't hesitate to cover the bottom of a boat with it, but have never worked with the airboat stuff.

Chuck
 
From what I remember, the airboat stuff can't be repaired..have to do the whole thing over if it gets scraped. Pete used graphite..I think..in his epoxy for the bottom of his BB3. I just used FME and it has held up stupendously on the hull. It isn't slippery though and I always wondered if I could have hit 30 mph with the 25hp if I had used a gloss. Your monster could benefit from something a bit slippery when you have to take out or put in at a shallow ramp...or are you using a roller trailer?
 
Andrew,

I used this airboat coating:

STEELFLEX SUPER SLICK EPOXY COATING #9X-2000 For airboats. Super slick surface is produced in one operation. Not necessary to spray an additional topcoat. Contains Teflon plus additional friction red additives.

From http://www.fascoepoxies.com/ . So far I am pleased with the results. I have one spot where it rubbed through on a rock but all in all it has stayed intact for 3 hard seasons. I was told that repairing it was next to impossible because in won't stick to itself once cured. I haven't had to repair it so can't comment except that it can be sanded off without too much difficulty so I think you could repair if if necessary.

I hunt the Mississippi a lot so I needed a bottom coating to deal with the clay type mud of that area and this seems to do the trick. Yes it is expensive but I would say, all in all, it's worth it.

Pete
 
That's the stuff I looked at Pete, at $100 a gallon, it isn't cheap. I would need about three gallons. Like you said over mud, the benfits out weigh the cost. For me in open water, I am not so sure.

Lee, haven't got a trailer yet. Gave up trying to buy one to fit with the extra width I have, so going to build it. Have the two axles from a mobile home and once I get a little further, will by the steel. I am planning on rollers of some type, as I cann't see this beast sliding very easily.

Any body with graphite on the bottom? Would like to hear your feed back.
 
I can't help you with the bottem paint issue but I can tell you that there are products out there which attach to your trailer bunks that make it a breeze to push a boat off the trailer. A friend and I put them on his trailer and would up on the ground after giving our customary hard shove to the boat. I know Bass Pro has them and they are reasonable in cost. For what it's worth.
 
I'm considering using the Super Slick because of all the mud dragging problems I'm having and have had.. My questions are as follows... Can you sand down an older boat (5yrs) and recover with it?? And how strong is it?? Does it gouge easily?? I have no experience with the stuff. Nor do I know anyone who's used it.
 
Hi Mike,

I don't see why you wouldn't be able to sand and apply this stuff. Not much different than applying it to a new hull. When I did my BB3 I did it all at once. That is, I mixed the whole shamoly at one time and got it all done in about an hour.

My experience with it has been good. The only area that has worn away was a spot near the chine where we were against a rock for a couple of hours. It doesn't appear to gouge any differently than normal epoxy though I have to say, I haven't crawled around underneath the boat for quite a while.

You are welcome to come a take a look if you want - I'm in Fort Atkinson.

Pete
 
The graphite provides a very slick bottom.... you have to be careful stepping out of the boat once you beach it on mud/clay as it will slide back out into the water causing you to to do the splits off the bow. Trust me on this one.

IM002164.JPG

I put one coat on.
I don't recall exactly how much graphite I used, but remember I had most of it left over.
 
I appreciate the responses... This website has helped me immensley on various aspects of boat building....

Pete--I appreciate the offer and may take you up on it.. I'll be out of commission for awhile though. Shoulder surgery on Sat.. The day after goose season ends. Umpteen things seem to get in the way of my projects
 
Andrew,

Have you checked into the legality of using mobile home axles for your trailer? I might be mistaken but I've heard they're not legal for any other use though I see them used on homemade trailers quite often. Can't wait to see pictures of your finished supertanker!

Chris
 
My mobile home axle deal fell apart. Some dumb a$$ stopped and offered the guy $150 a piece for them, I was only going to give the guy $100 total for them, so I don't blame the guy for selling them.

Over lunch today I tried to figure out if it was better to buy a pre assemble axle, cut and lengthen it or buy parts and make my own. Guess I decided to make my own, that way there are no cuts/welds in the middle of the axle.
 
Andrew,
And......of course, we have High Gloss Marine Enamel (GME) available as well as the Flat Marine Enamel (FME). It's $52/gallon.
I just had a gallon custom blended for a customer to match what he has on a boat now.
It's manufactured by the same place as our FME...great stuff.
Lou

www.lockstockbarrell.com
 
can speak for the graphite never tried it.

the stuff [font=Verdana,Arial,Helvetica]S Stevenson was talking about is just cuts of Polymer there are several types most common are black and Grey (recycled) the white is the best (virgin) then some of the others are yellow . this stuff is very slick and protects agaisnt punctures but don't think it is practical on a duck boat

the super slick / frog spit/ owl spit etc etc is the better choice it does offer some protection depending on witch one some are really slick and some are just slick, some brand last an some do not! if you spray it on you will use less material . go to www.southernairboat.cm and do a search there has been several discussion about the frog spit/ owl snot / super slick and refreness to where you can get some of the better custom blends. airboat that run dry ground (3-5 miles every few days) have to replace about every 6 months but the ones who only hop over little dry spot (100 yards here and there) theres last for years
 [/font]
 
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