JD Sneakbox Renovation

J

Joe Daly

Active member
I am starting the rebuild of a fiberglass sneakbox. I picked it up last year and got out in it 5 times before the season ended. Boat handles well and draws almost no water. This is a similar boat to the Steve Sanford sneakbox that Steve redid in 2016. It is bit rugged and well used but when I saw that it was a twin to Steve's I had to have it. Steve has done all the engineering, all I have to do is follow the posts he did.





View attachment IMG_2715.jpg
View attachment IMG_2715.jpg
 

The sneakbox has a very low profile and hides well on the marsh even without grass. When the tide rises it sticks out. Will need grass rails as part of the renovation. I need to get this upside down and take a look at the underside. There was a slight leak which I thought came through the attachment of the skeg. I am going to replace the wood skeg with Coosa board. I took the plywood floor out and I found bolts that hold a low keel in place along the center bottom. Checked with Steve and his didn't have a keel. I have to assume this was added by a previous owner and is contributing to the leak. I will remove the keel and check for where the water penetration came from.



View attachment IMG_2665.jpg
 
So now the question is do you need the keel.
You stated Steves boat does not have the added keel.
Do you replace the added keel or just fix the hole.

I have a pryer BBSB that has an added keel that leaks.
It is on this of things to do.
 
There are actually 5 holes. The brass 1/4-20 bolts and nuts that attached the keel worked loose over time. I plan on adding an inch to the skeg which is integral to the hull form and leaving the keel off. There is less work in the hull bottom than I thought. The hull and deck on this boat are like an oil can. Will need some formers to stiffen it. This boat doesn't weigh 150 lbs empty.
 
Joe~


You will see that I stiffened the hull with:


~ 3 longitudinal stringers (I just reinforced the originals)


~ bulkheads fore and aft of the cockpit opening


~ lighter diagonal stringers ahead of the forward bulkhead to prevent the oil-canning


~ quarter knees within the cockpit - to support shelves


BTW: I remember seeing that nice outboard bracket. Unlike mine, it is raked. I wish I had re-mounted mine with beveled standoffs when I did the renovation...


All the best,


SJS














 
The outboard bracket is made of fiberglass. I am surprised that it held up for years. Once I get it off I will evaluate it. The transom is only 3/4" thick. I like the way you doubled yours

The good news is that the skeg is strong. No dry rot in the insert board. How much did you add to the depth on the Sanford Sneakbox?
 
Good morning, Joe~


Total depth of skeg at transom was 4.5 inches.


BTW: I realized that my earlier note was not quite right. I had put another - watertight - bulkhead up forward.


NOTE: The "deck frame" amidships was temporary - to help locate the deck and cockpit framing.





View attachment 2 Frames in temp.jpg



Here are the additional stringers up forward. I see, too, that they are not laid diagonally but parallel to the midline.



View attachment 10 Inside finish + nailers.jpg



All the best,


SJS


 
Quite different than the skeg on the "as built". It measures only 2-1/2". I will add the additional 2" that you have. Did you run it all the way forward as a 2" add or did you taper it in shorter?
 
Got the bottom cleaned off. The bottom was not prepared correctly. Wasn't scuffed so the polyester resin and cloth didn't adhere well. Made it easier coming off but was the cause of the leak.
 
Joe~


I tapered the skeg over its entire length so it faired onto the hull where the original did - at about 31 inches forward of the transom.


SJS

 
That was the I thought made the most sense. The hull is out of shape about the same as yours was. I will try to get some back before I put the bow string extensions in. I assume they were assembled the same way. It shouldn't hurt handling as the bottom is round.

This should be a fairly easy renovation based on your sharing all your prior engineering.

Joe
 
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