Jet propelled customized 14 ft Aluminum Semi-V Duck Boat - Design/Modify sec.

Scott Farris

Scott Farris

Well-known member
To keep this boat modification write-up simple, I'm separating the discussion on the history of my two previous boat decking builds, what I learned and what went into the selection of particular boat and what was behind this total bare hull makeover. It will be posted in a parallel thread to the picture/build thread. Do to my excitement in seeing my ideas turn into reality I've jumped the gun and started to post before the boat is totally finished, but it's so close?

The start - Take one new to me aluminum utility boat and strip everything out of her except for the tiny little bow seat that supports the bow. The three-main floatation filled seats got to go! All rivets involved are retightened or replaced.


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With the seats removed the hull is braced with a frame created from 1/8" structural shaped aluminum, angle and channel. The components are fastened with solid 3/16" aluminum rivets, using an air rivet hammer, dies and anvil kit. The deck will be riveted (1/4" solid) to the boats railing to become a permanent structural member, making up for the removal of the three seats. In addition to the two heavy 3X3 Angle crossmembers on either end of the cockpit, additional 1.5 X 1.5 angle cross members were added 18 and 28 inches forward of the cockpit. The 18" up crossmember supports a bulkhead, storage to the rear while the forward area is filled with floatation. The other cross member is positioned centered on a deck seam. All cross members are attached with fabricated angle brackets riveted to the hull at an elevation to support the deck even with the railing.


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The deck is cut from a sheet of 0.09? aluminum (4ft x 10 ft long), plus a section left over from the last deck. At my request Yard Metals (the aluminum supplier) sheared two 10" X 10' long pieces leaving the third 28" X 10?piece. The cockpit is 36" wide so the two 10 strips will run up each side of the cockpit to the rear rail. The hull is approximately 56" wide at her widest so the strips will reach or extend over the side rails, allowing them to be trimmed even with the outside of the rails. The remaining 28" wide piece will be used to fill in the 3' X 2' rear deck as well as the 28" wide strip in front of the cockpit. The remaining 16" piece will come from the previous left-over piece from the last deck. All seams will be reinforced with angle and sealed with silicone sealer.


The two-foot area aft of the cockpit has a 2-cubic foot floatation box fabricated on each side. The "box" is formed from a 3'X 1' X 1' sheet of 0.06" thick, bent into a 2X1X1 foot high "L" shape, the open sides to the hull and stern. 1.5" angles are attached to the tops of the floatation boxes' inboard lengths to help support the aft deck. The bottom is formed with a few .06" X 2" strips bent to pop rivet to the lower edge of the "box" and then run horizontally to the side of the hull, where it's bent again extending up to just under the rail and solid riveted to the hull A couple of additional strips run fore and aft securing the strips spacing while allowing large drain capability. A common goal with all the floatation areas is to provide lots of air space under the floatation with plenty of drainage to prevent the expanded polystyrene (Styrofoam) from getting waterlogged. These strips are cut from the scrapped boat seats as well as from some scrap aluminum from the old wolverine boat. The floatation support strips under the decking as well as the storage shelving, are cut from the removed seats. The Styrofoam under the deck is protected from damage by items on the shelves by a layer of aluminum flashing between the webbing and foam.
The forward floatation is raised off the bottom of the boat by a frame work of straps, then filled with foam pieces cut to fit, maximizing the volume Vs foam.
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I went over kill and ran a 3/4" aluminum flex conduit from the port aft cockpit corner to the forward bulkhead using five 2" lg, 1.5 X 1.5 angle brackets cut with appropriate hole saw and corners rounded to follow the hole allowing mounting closer to the hull. Brackets are riveted to the underside of the port shelf. In addition to pulling the bow light wires through it I left an additional line in case I decide to add driving lights.
The electrical panel is .09 sheet with a 4 breaker/switch panel and a voltage/usb/cigarette lighter socket ports mounted thru it and a ground block mounted to the inside. The panel is set back even with the front of the shelving and is pop rivetted in place. I use pop rivets when I may need to remove things, as they are easy to drill out. A battery switch is located on the side of the port floatation box. The switch is actually mounted to a separate plate which pop rivets to the box with four fastener clearance holes. They are required by the switch as it?s cover, and sides are held in place by the four mounting screws. Not having easy access behind the mounting surface, to get to the nuts to access the posts, this plate will provide access (with drill). Also mounted to the side of the floatation box is the common ground post. The power for the starter and the control panel goes: Battery thru the battery switch (positive leads) and return to the common ground post to the battery. This set up keeps the battery clean of a bunch of misc. wires, just a pair (Red & Blk.) of battery cables.



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Few more pictures to attach in next reply:
 
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Jet propelled decked 14 ft Aluminum Semi-V - History & Selection

My first wood decked project is in the old reader's rigs. It was a 14ft 1961 Wolverine semi-V that after a few years of service I decked over with ply wood and sized lumber. I really liked that setup; the Wolverine was a tub and held a large volume of goose decoys and planed out effortlessly with a 25hp 2-stroke Nissan. Unfortunately, the old hull on a less than well set up trailer died a few years later from fatigue cracks, leaky rivets, worn through spots, as well as other damage suffered over its 40 plus year life did it in.

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The next project, shared here a couple of times, was an aluminum deck on a 14-ft Starcraft Seafarer. I picked the Starcraft Seafarer thinking I was getting a larger more sea worthy hull. I learned quickly that the "V-hull" may be more seaworthy but it?s added size wasn't efficient. Don't get me wrong, heading out on the 7-mile run across Narragansett Bay in the dark, the added freeboard and "V-hull" is reassuring but the rest of the time there are drawbacks. Lost initial stability and 5" higher freeboard to climb and reach over is a pain and I blame a few leaky crotches on that stretch After 13 years of use she's going strong, and I'm keeping her in the fleet for bigger water like Narragansett Bay and Long Island Sound and larger lakes. But decked out and equipped with a rock hopper she needed every one of those 25-hp to stay up on plane when loaded. I eventually converted the Nissan to 30 hp by removing the air inlet restrictor plate and adjusting the timing set up. The 30 hp keeps her running up on plane without having to jam the throttle tight against the stop.

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The all new third project? I find myself staying closer to home spending a higher percentage of time in a non-navigable section of the CT River. It is a real prop killer area that used to be renowned for shad fishing but now is known more for the spring striper fishing. My prop boats have been very limiting, and I've drooled over jets for a very long time. Well I've decided to add one to the fleet. As always, I took baby steps and got a jet conversion for the Nissan thinking I'd push the Starcraft around at a reduced speed but the more I read and dug into it the less practical that idea became. So, I started looking for a semi-V for the flat stern to properly feed the jet intake, provide better initial stability and get up on plan easier. The semi-Vs are significantly lighter, with less freeboard, all good things for my application.


I found a used Sear's hull and nice galvanized trailer locally. Unlike my last two deck projects I'm stripping out this hull, removing the three seats and their flotation. The boat will get a structural framework and new floatation as well as shelving and an electrical system. The new floatation will be distributed in three major locations like a Devlin boat plus under the deck amidships to gain an additional 150 # lift if swamped. This should help the 3-point floatation to keep her upright and deal with the added 70-80 lbs of aluminum decking and shelving.


This deck will be permanently riveted to the rail. A 7'-6' long X 3' wide cock pit is located two feet forward of the stern. The rear deck will cover the floatation boxes to either side and provide cover for the gas tank and battery. It will also provide protection for taking water over the transom. The Jet adapter kit raises the power head 5 or 6 inches, so the transom will be equipped with a motor board sticking up above the new decking, allowing the sealed stern deck. I really like having the stern deck on my John Kuhn sneak boat. The cockpit will be equipped with an all-around 1.5" high coaming. In addition, I'm planning on installing a 3" high, "V" shaped splash guard forward of the cockpit to protect from taking water over the bow. With the low freeboard and coaming, the plan is to sit on the deck with boat cushions while running, then using folding chairs or buckets when fishing or gunning from the boat.

I am so looking forward to zipping around the CT River drawing only a few inches of water. The water I'll be able to access for both striper fishing and hunting is going to add a lot to my possibilities.


Scott
 
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Scott,

Ambitious project you have going there. What HP engine will you be adding the jet conversion onto? Did you or do you plan to add reinforcements to the transom? Have you considered using aluminum or stainless riv-nuts and machine screws, as fasteners, instead of pop rivets, where you may need access (such as the electrical panel)?

Anxiously awaiting the sea trial results.
 
Hi Dave,

Been down working on the bow light and it's elevated island. I'm putting the jet conversion on the Nissan 2 stroke 25, now 30-hp head. The output should be around 20 hp (2/3). The hull was originally rated for 15 hp. With the enclosed rear deck, added flotation, motor battery and full tank under name plate weight and yes a strengthened transom / motor-board, I believe I'm in good shape. A 20 hp output on that light flat bottomed semi-V, no drag of a rock hopper protected lower unit and she should scoot along nicely. Maybe not NJ crazy fast but plenty fast for the shoal areas I'll be poking into.

The jet conversion adds a 5 to 8 inch added transom height requirement. The leading edge of the intake foot is only supposed to be about 1/4" below the bottom of the transom. For the raised motor-board I'm using the doubled 3/4" plywood sandwiched between two sheets of .06 aluminum attached with 5200. The larger sheet wrapped both sides and top. The board will be bolted through the transom and wood motor mounting wood on the outside. It will also be bolted to an angle attached to the aft deck, both for strength and water resistance. Additional reinforcement will be added if there is any sign it's needed, probably in the form of gussets tying it further into the aft deck.

With respect to riv-nuts, I guess I never thought of them, believing the small ones to be carbon steel insets. If they are all aluminum that would work. Although I'm pretty comfortable running a 3/16" drill into the pop rivet's center hole until the head pops.

I'm so looking forward to getting her out on the river!,
Scott
 
This is some kind of project you have going. You do hunt some big water, and it looks like you build one helluva boat for it. Congrats!
 
Thanks Greg.

One of the drivers I mentioned was getting access to striper waters. Back when Bennett Fuller was posting here we got out for a spring evening striper fishing trip. Both of these, plus a handful of smaller ones, were caught out of Bennett's ranger jet inboard, less than 6 miles, as the crow flys, from my house.

My 41"

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Bennett's best of the same night.



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I've never been able to get to most of this area, especially at night. Bennet and his brother who ran a 16-ft john with a jet outboard regularly took fish to 50+". This is also the area where Roland Marten borrowed a jet boat and ran through and up over an old earthen dam (Enfield Dam) to win a BASS tournament back in the early 90's by catching big small mouths no one else could get too.

I'm going to like having the jet!

Scott
 
Good morning, Scott~


Great project and a great read !


You give us a glimpse into the world of aluminum - terra incognita to me.


All the best,


SJS

 
Neat build Scott. I look forward to seeing more on it. Do you have a link for more information on the jet drives? You have made me curious...
 
Hi Geoff,

I believe most conversions are built by the same overseas supplier. I purchased mine from RainBoat.Com and it ended up being 12 wk lead time since they didn't have the Nissan unit in stock. Keep in mind you'll loose 1/3 of the power output. Youtube has some neat video of jet outboard boats. This guy is a fun watching and they show off both sides of the jet: small water and river rapids

Best!
 
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Thanks Steve, Having grown up on the rocky side of Long Island Sound I have a warm spot for aluminum hulls. Besides, they've been round since the end of WWII so they are bordering on historical, yes?

Best!
Scott
 
Looks good Scott and now I have some inspiration as I've been thinking of decking my "new to me" 12' V bottom. Although not a jet I'll be propelling mine with a new assembly consisting of a PPF longtail mud motor kit and a 6hp Ironton motor from Northern Tool. The picture is on my way for a trial run. I just finished applying Steel Flex 2000 for slipping through the marsh. I'll tell you it's a pain to apply but it is some slippery stuff! I don't have access to reasonably priced aluminum in my area so I have been reviewing the Zackbox plans in Zack Taylors book and I'm hoping I can get by with 1/4" Luan with a 4oz layer of fiberglass.



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Thanks Ed,

Did you check out the link (both pages) of my first wood deck? The deck worked very well. It was based on an article in Chuck Lichon's book, Waterfowling Boats, Blinds & Related Gear. The original builder actually saw my write up and contacted me through this site. I love this place! Wendell Avery has also decked his 14-ft over with wood. I just like the almost indestructibility of aluminum! Just have to watch out and not freeze one's butt to the deck, like the proverbial tongue on the flag pole. But that's one of Mr. Sutton's wonderful stories from yesteryear.

Good luck!
Scott
 
Scott-that is a great story! You are in great striped bass country. You are in eider country also, correct? I had a friend in college from RI that used to tell me about gunning from a seawall somewhere, but it might have been oceanside.
 
Scott - Yep, I remember it from years gone by. I have purchased material for a blind I have in mind which will be similar to an Easy-Up blind but I've been thinking.This is a small boat and I will use it in sheltered water only but with that said there will be a time I'm sure I need to chase a cripple which may find me in not so sheltered water. The thought of decking over the boat in such a way as to be able to shed water is attractive if the waves become taller than my little boat.
 
Ed, Not sure if I said it correctly, I referred to to the old reader rig link above to make sure you saw how the wood deck was framed out:

farris4.jpg


Add supports to the seats and fab up some rail clamps and you have a on/off deck that doesn't add any holes/ modification to the boat.

Brad, Thanks for the kind words, I'm already have a great time with her and she hasn't been floated yet!

Greg, thanks, Eider unfortunately avoid LI Sound in the most part. We get a few over on our RI border. On the other hand southern MA, RI and Cape Cod are all 2 to 3 hours away. We get huntable numbers of Scoter and large population of Old Squaw on the sound.
 
Just curious as to whether you had considered putting a little arc into to forward deck and combing during build? I realize it would have made deck supports harder to construct and was wondering if that was the issue or does the flat decking suit your needs better? Nice looking job by the way. Did something myself years ago with a 12 36 jon that had a crunched stern section. Cut it down to 10', Put a new stern in with marine plywood and decked over with 1/4 inch fur w/combings. Made a nice little push poleable pond bx. that I used for many years in a little section of marsh I hunted.
 
Hi Roy,

I have given a thought or two to crowning the foredeck, but quickly blew it off for this rig. Besides being sexy the only benefit I can see is for shedding water quicker. The draw backs are many, equipment, decoys and dog will slide off the deck, it's much harder to construct, I don't have rolling equipment for the structural shapes so getting consistent radii to match coamings to the cockpit frame would be just about impossible for me. Finally after running little home decked boats for close to 20 years I've never missed having a crowned deck.

Would be sexy though,
Scott
 
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