Launching/Loading a BBSB

Zach Houvener

Zach Houvener

Active member
Hi all,

With me being a relative rookie to boats that I have to launch and load off of a trailer, I thought I could get your experiences and tips for launching a BBSB off of roller trailers...

So far, I've launched my Estuary twice, but I've had my girlfriend there with me. Launching solo is going to take some summer practice. Do you guys recommend "powering up" the trailer when loading back up, or do you "winch" it back up after it has hit the bottom rollers?

Thanks for any and all help!
 
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Zach~

I know many launch or retrieve with power - but I have never seen the need to do so with small vessels - and have seen a guy punch a hole through his Grumman aluminum hull.

My usual practice for loading is to pull the winch cable (strap) back only as far as I know (from experience) I can reach the bow eye. I lock the ratchet on the winch then pull the bow up a couple of feet onto the trailer so I can snap the hook onto the bow eye. I then winch the boat up a foot or two. IF the hull is crooked, I straighten it out while most of the weight of the hull is still afloat. (I am still wearing waders so I can get in behind the boat to do so.) Then I winch it the rest of the way forward.

IF there is no one else awaiting use of the ramp, I pull the drain plug and let it drain completely while still on the ramp. This is usually when I remove my waders and put my short boots on.

Once draining has stopped, I put the plug back in, and pull up onto level ground.

I get the boat ready for the trip home: removing whatever needs to travel in my car, covering the cockpit, fastening the belly strap, etc.

Hope this helps,

SJS
 
I follow the same procedures as Steve has outlined.

Have never power loaded before, with bunks or rollers. With rollers I don't see how it would work that well.
 
Your summer practice will let you know how deep your trailer needs to be, most likely with the rear rollers just submerged.

If you are using a ramp in freezing weather take a minute to allow your trailer to drain back into the water, even if people are waiting. Dont drag your trailer up the ramp, leaving ice behind all the way......
 
Like Steve, I do not use power to load my boat. As for launching I am solo 90% of the time. I carry a bow line that is a few feet longer than my trailer. I attach the bow line to the boat and then to a loop in the bow line I clip my trailer bow strap. Making sure my winch is locked I will back the boat into the water far enough so the boat floats then I'll pull the trailer up far enough that I can unclip my bow line from the strap clip on dry shore and either pull the floating boat to shore or to a dock if one is available. Knock on wood I have not lost the boat yet.

A friend of mine has the Minnkota I-pilot operated trolling motor on the bow of his boat. He simply lets the boat float of the trailer and then uses his remote to drive the boat to the dock or shore close enough that he can wade to it. I'm not that lucky I most surely would be swimming to retrieve my boat!
 
Like others have noted, don't try to power load a small boat. It is just too easy to do it manual to run the risks. A couple words of caution. Don't undo the bow strap until the boat is floating because it will so easily roll back off the trailer. Keep in mind that with your displacement hull, the rear rollers will actually be higher than the lowest part of the hull. When you unload, you want the boat just floating, and you will still have to push it over the rear rollers perhaps. When I retrieve the BBSB, I first pushed the rear rollers down before I backed down the ramp. The hull will easily crank on, but the bow will "dive" toward the trailer between the rear rollers, and the front rollers. I installed a pair of rollers on the frame so the hull did not contact. As I cranked forward, the bow would ride up on the front rollers and finally up to the stop. With a roller trailer, I found it self centered everytime. Once you know how deep to go, you will check the water line on the fenders and know pretty well. It will vary depending on the angle of the ramp, but roller trailers are so easy and the BBSB, even the Estuary is light to load.
 
A couple points to add to the discussion. Power loading is really hard on the lake bottom at the ramp, not so much with our tiddlers but the big guys powering onto the trailer really chew up the bottom making a big hole. Get it figured out in the warm weather and you will amaze others at the ramp. All good points made so far from others too. BTW, doesn't affect everyone BUT in Minn. don't put your drain plug back in when trailering. The invasive species police will get you. For all of you in Minn.- Watch for a new law regarding "education" about invasive species and trailer decals. So far it is on hold, seems the DNR did a "ready, fire, aim" trick again. Just sayin.
 
Zach,
I also have an Estuary. My first, and most important point I'd like to make is that when launching solo you should definitely attach the boat to the trailer via the bow handle and a rope long enough to clear the trailer. I prefer to detach the winch strap after I back down the ramp. I tie a loop into the end and and slip it right over the winch post of the trailer. It goes on/off very easily. When the boat rolls off the trailer, it comes off with a little force unless you leave the winch strap connected and control it's descent with the winch handle. I almost lost grip of it once. This would have "shot" the boat out into the water where I most likely could not have reached it. It's quite heavy for a small boat.
As far as trailer depth, I always go as deep as I can before submerging the trailer axles and this seems to work out just fine.
For loading, I advise against powering the Estuary up onto the rollers. The way my trailer is set up, once the bow contacts the first set of rollers and the "belly" the boat of begins to make its way onto the trailer the nose will come up a bit until those first rollers tilt back down. This would be kind of dangerous in my opinion, if someone were to be in the boat. I recommend what has been previously mentioned. Pull the winch strap out far enough to reach the bow eye while the boat's in the water. She'll winch into the trailer quite easily.
Good luck with your Estuary, you will love it! Be sure to take proper care of it. Call Dave Clark if you have any questions, he's very helpful.
 
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I like everyone else loads and launches the sneak box by hand. I installed an eye bolt just above the winch. My bow line is several feet longer than trailer and has a carabiner on both ends. Since boat is on bunks I do not have to worry about dropping boat on ramp. Clip bow line leaving excess coiled on deck - Back down until fenders are covered and hit firmly brakes - boat will now be floating behind trailer. For loading I have installed a pair of cheap trailer guide pipes. Just makes it easier to kick the boat out shoulder up to a guide and pull onto the trailer.
........
I get away from the ramp and into parking area as soon as possible to strap down and stow gear - nothing drives boaters crazy as someone dinking around on the ramp. As noted before when in MN pull the plugs and pick all the weeds and debris off boat and trailer.
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Good Luck
.......
 
My Suggestion would be Check with Dave Clark He has a trailer that he recommends buying that fits his Estuaire very well .Thats what all the guys in N.J. do who have that boat. depending on your age determine whether you Power up or Hand winch. Because I carry two sneakboxes one on top most of the time Two Kristiansen Boxes , I prefer power up,.reaching the age of 76 I try & do everything the easy way.
 
Zach~

You started a fine discussion here. One more thought: Every boat should have a bowline - aka a painter - permanently fastened forward - so that there is always a line on the boat with which it can be secured quickly. On most of my duckboats, it is spliced to a cleat on the foredeck (and not the bow eye/ring itself). In any event, I always make sure that it is long BUT NOT LONG ENOUGH TO REACH THE PROP should it find its way overboard. (Mine is usually coiled on the foredeck or even used to lash down a bag of stool up there when under way.)

All the best,

SJS
 
Thank you to everyone who replied to my post and PM'd me with their suggestions! This is very helpful for a newbie boater.

Keep them coming!

Zach
 
Zach

I'm jealous you got that boat. You've gotten excellent advice so far. I can't think of any further advice except bring it down to the Columbia to wash the salt off of it.
 
Zach, are you talking roller bunks?? or a rollers that are independent that go down towards the water to receive the bow when winching it in and self level? If you have the latter you shouldn't have to wet ur hubs. crank it up! As for what Steve said about the length of the bow line keep it shorter then the length of ur boat. It's not like untangling a decoy line in the prop. Bring a knife as you can't tilt the engine.


Phil
 
y suggestion is that you need to have a rack of Brant decoys on the back of it this Fall.....that's my suggestion.....


Give me a shout I'm back in Washington and started to clear things out in preparation for the move....


Steve
 
One more point regarding a painter- keep it short enough to stay out of the prop for sure but if it is in the water and you are too the rope will trail the boat and be somewhat easier to catch than the boat itself. Make sense??
 
I agree with having a separate painter permanently attached to the boat and shorter than the distance to the prop for all of the reasons aforementioned. I have a planing hull boat on a bunk trailer and just float it off and on. I completely dunk the axle to do this, and then do the same putting it back on and usually only have to winch it a couple of feet if at all. I generally do my bearings every 3-4 years because it is easy and inexpensive and a little maintenance goes a log way. I launch in the salt and have never had an issue with water getting into my axle bearings and causing trouble, but admittedly don't travel far from where I keep the boat, just a few miles. Were I to be towing any distance regularly I would be greasing the bearings probably every time I used it. But new bearings every 4 years is a small price to pay for dunking the axle. I can have my boat trailer-ed and pulled away from a ramp in about 2 minutes, launched in same.
 
I agree with Dave about the painter line. The painter is used as a safety tied over the winch post. Safety chain also used. Installed a second cleat forward of spray shield, about a foot apart. Splice it through the center of the cleat with a large eye splice so you can use the cleat for tie down etc.
I try not to dunk the tires, unless it is rough. I swear by the Cabela guide ons. Always centers the boat, lights and plate are always out of the water [not playing with lights each season]. I use bunks with center rollers, also use Cabelas bunk spray [silicone] for easy on and off. Do not use spray with out guide ons. Your boat WILL slide off side ways going around a corner, Whaler moved two feet...
Drain plug tied to motor mount, Spare drain plug drilled into motor mount... Have fun and be SAFE...
 
These folks have most things covered. I am a strong proponent of a hitch on the front of my truck. I find it much easier to manuver and launch the boat while looking at it over my hood, in the headlights. Otherwise I need to remove my tailgate and turn off my headlights and it is still knid of dark. A front receiver hitch install easily and only about $120. It sure makes my launching easier.
 
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