Linseed oil and oil paints
- Thread starter D. Hinton
- Start date
Steve Sanford
Well-known member
Good morning, Dax ~
I use linseed oil for treating unpainted wood - like wading staffs and paddle and oar grips. On decoys, I use it to provide a base for oil paints - for my fancy "mantel piece" birds. I put on 2 coats to get a smooth, even base. Depending upon the weather - or the heat from the stove - even "boiled" linseed oil can take several days to fully dry. (If painting gunners, I seal with spar varnish instead - for a tougher finish.)
For thinning my tube oils, I typically use turps - a good quality artists' turpentine. Linseed oil can also be added to oil paints; it usually makes the finish more glossy - whereas turps flattens the finish. There is a whole world of mediums - mixtures of solvents, oils and driers - for painting with oils.
Traditional wooden decoys were sealed with "boiled" (not raw) linseed oil (boiled used to mean "distilled" but nowadays probably means that chemical drying agents have been added). Of course, in those days, paint was mixed in the shop, with lamp black, white lead, a handful of standard pigments, et cetera.
Hope this helps,
SJS
I use linseed oil for treating unpainted wood - like wading staffs and paddle and oar grips. On decoys, I use it to provide a base for oil paints - for my fancy "mantel piece" birds. I put on 2 coats to get a smooth, even base. Depending upon the weather - or the heat from the stove - even "boiled" linseed oil can take several days to fully dry. (If painting gunners, I seal with spar varnish instead - for a tougher finish.)
For thinning my tube oils, I typically use turps - a good quality artists' turpentine. Linseed oil can also be added to oil paints; it usually makes the finish more glossy - whereas turps flattens the finish. There is a whole world of mediums - mixtures of solvents, oils and driers - for painting with oils.
Traditional wooden decoys were sealed with "boiled" (not raw) linseed oil (boiled used to mean "distilled" but nowadays probably means that chemical drying agents have been added). Of course, in those days, paint was mixed in the shop, with lamp black, white lead, a handful of standard pigments, et cetera.
Hope this helps,
SJS
What are you trying to achieve in your paint finish on birds?
IF you are using Parkers Paints, add some boiled linseed oil to the cans, about 5% by volume or less. They formulate these paints to be applied over a wood or cork decoy that has been treated with a base coat of boiled linseed oil. This will minimize chalking.
IF you are using Parkers Paints, add some boiled linseed oil to the cans, about 5% by volume or less. They formulate these paints to be applied over a wood or cork decoy that has been treated with a base coat of boiled linseed oil. This will minimize chalking.
PM Pat Gregory. Pat knows the finish treatment Jim used. I don't think it is manufactured anymore, courtesy of HVOC standards with did away with Valspar's Val-oil sealer as well.
I am pretty sure secret ingredient is bees wax in the solvent base that Jim rubbed his birds down with each year.
I am pretty sure secret ingredient is bees wax in the solvent base that Jim rubbed his birds down with each year.
RLLigman said:
While cleaning out Jeff's stuff I found a gallon of Val-Oil. Good to know it's a precious commodity now. I also came across a lot of pigments and linseed oil, japan drier, red lead, and other compounds used in making paints and varnishes. Jeff used to make his own paints and read old books on how to do it. That is one area of his expertise that we never really discussed but the few times we did it was obvious he was well read and experienced. I wish I knew what to do with all his supplies. Sadly, I tossed most of that stuff because there is only so much I can save and will ever have the time to learn.
Sorry for the ramble.
Eric
Steve Sanford
Well-known member
To seal before painting, I would put on 2 coats - the second after the first is well-absorbed and tacky if not dry.
On the other hand, I recommend getting a quart of spar varnish - my local hardware stores have it. You can then treat your oar and paddle grips and walking staffs, et cetera - and any wood-handled tools. There's nothing like the silky feel of oiled wood with a bit of use.
All the best,
SJS
On the other hand, I recommend getting a quart of spar varnish - my local hardware stores have it. You can then treat your oar and paddle grips and walking staffs, et cetera - and any wood-handled tools. There's nothing like the silky feel of oiled wood with a bit of use.
All the best,
SJS
Pete McMiller
Well-known member
Boiled Linseed and Turpentine mixed 50/50 is a good first coat sealer and will dry in a couple of days. Adding more linseed in subsequent coats will improve the sealing but also extend the drying time. If 100% Linseed is used the drying time may even extend into weeks. Linseed and Turp is my all time favorite sealing method and will last almost forever. I sealed a newly built dog house with it before painting with oil paint in 1972 and other than chew marks from my chessie, it lasted until 2006 and the paint never peeled. Ended up burning it when I moved that last time.
Nate Grace
Well-known member
What Pete said. I make up a concoction of 50 percent linseed oil, 25 percent turps, and 25 percent mineral spirits. I'll prime any plywood or cedar birds with two coats of this before painting or blocking in primary colors. It has worked out well.
Nate
Nate