Nav light installation on Devlin Snowgoose

David Stern

Active member
Gentlemen:
I am doing some upgrades to the boat this month. I have always had the battery powered removable lights on the boat. I want to install permenant lights on the boat. I am installing the red and green running lights on either side of the hull.
The white light's placement is where I need help. I know it should be behind me when I am sitting as to not blind me. Is there any rhyme or reason to the exact placement of the light socket?
Also, does anyone prefer a specific height of the white light bar?
Thanks
Stern
 
I think typically the 360deg light is mounted on the starboard side, to be behind the pilot. I am currently searching for the longest LED pole I can find. Mine is just 2ft long or so, and mounted on the deck of my BBSB. I am sure my body blocks it much of the time. It is also in my line of sight when working decoys in the dark. If I can find one 60" or more I will try that to see if I can get it above where I am looking. I usually pull it when I get to the spot and hope that my nav lights and head lamp will keep me safe. If I was working out in the main-stem then I would not pull it, but near shore, i hope I am safe. I keep the handheld spot close and will flash and boats moving about to let them know where I am.
 
David
The stern light does blind you, just make sure its high enough so its 360 for visz I usually only put mine in at night as that's when I,m going to get stopped. No one gets up earlier then us in the winter.


Phil
 
Do I just pick a spot behind me and drill? It seems so random?
I will see what length goes over my head when seated and driving.
I too will pull it out when in the shallows.

Thanks
Stern
 
There are USCG rules on placement of a stern light but if they are enforced on a homebuilt duckboat, I doubt it.

Here is a couple of things I would look at

1. Go LED. Power draw is so much less. I have LED on the front and back and the lifetime is forever, and the power draw is minimal. I only need to use a very small rechargeable battery to power these lights and I only need to recharge the battery maybe once/year. It is also nice to be able to leave the lights on (should you choose) while parked in your spot waiting for the hunt to begin and not worry about drawing down the battery.
2. Buy a good one that limits the light throw to a certain angle that does not throw light down into the boat cockpit. this is so worth it as you don't want to be blinded and then when you are sitting in the boat, no light in the eyes nor glare off any surface of the boat.
3. Mount it high.
4. Make it removable otherwise the pole is always getting in your way at the exact wrong time.
5. A swivel head is nice so you can adjust the angle of the light to horizontal. Nothing worse than a light that s not horizontal and is throwing light into the water or the boat or somewhere you don't want it to go.

Here are a couple of examples. I am sure you can find cheaper elsewhere.

http://www.discountmarinesupplies.com/Perko_Stealth_Series_LED_Pole_Stern_Lights.html?gclid=CPLhquDNtccCFQ8YHwodtUoP1A

http://www.starmarinedepot.com/attwood-led-articulating-all-around-light-24%22-pole.html?gclid=COyq_ITOtccCFUoXHwod3T8HYw

Mark W
 
3. Mount it high.

I believe the current regs. call for a minimum of one meter above the bow lights. I've extended mine such that it is above my head when I am standing up in the boat. If you have a tiller steer be sure the pole placement clears the swing of the tiller handle.
 
That is a great point. I have a tiller extension and I want to make sure it clears. I think the tallest pole I can get is 60". I will have to play around with it.

David
 
I used a short one I already had on hand. I think it may have been about twenty inches or so. I took a tubing cutter and cut it in half. Then cut the wires. Sliced extra wire onto one end. Then took some 3/4 inch CVPC tubing, heated up the end and force fitted it over the original end with the extended wires. (first feed the wires thru) then sliced the wires to the remaining end. Once the wires were complete, I heated the CVPC up and again force fitted the remaining end, stuffing in the wires just before shoving the end into the CVPC.
Sounds complicated, but it is real simple. I'm out of town till Monday but Ill post a picture of the finished product when I get back in town.
 
I believe the current regs require a bow light and stern light. The 360 degree all around [anchor light] is not required on a small craft. On smaller one's only a 360 is required. Not totally sure though. Check with power squadron or CG...
 
If you make it too tall, it gets in the way of everything such as trees, over hanging branches, swinging guns, and so on. It is a fine line........

Mark W
 
I would look at the bankes or other commercial boats. Mine stern light is the removal type that pushes into a socket and get stored when not in use. It is on the starboard stern location.
 
I installed the removable type too when I needed to replace the original on my Classic TDB. The short one always seemed to get in the way especially when the dog would enter/exit.It got pretty beat up over time.Now after everyone is on board and ready to leave the dock I just push it into the socket and go..Once we are at our hunting location I take it off and stow it on a clip mounted to the gunnel and the socket has a swiveling cap to keep out debris...That light is blinding when setting out decoys and the pole can catch a line so its best stowed when not needed. and yes its on the starboard side behind the driver.I'm not that concerned with the actual regs as the boat has all nav lights working and a stern light.From most all the other lightless boats I encounter in the dark i figure I'm way ahead of the game and in 30 yrs of gunning the same area never had a lighting issue with the DEC.
 
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Dave when I said 360 viz The light has to be higher then the engine, I run an old school TDB 17 that was factory rigged with nav lights If they were to go I,d probably go with stern light w suction cup and just stick it to the top of engine. I spend more time cleaning leads ect. To make them work


Phil
 
Dave, how much longer did you go? I have cut the light in half as you suggested and am currently shopping for the correct tubing/pipe. Considering copper, but it is heavier, and a little sloppy fit. I am sure some sealant glue will make it fit fine, but I want to go at least 4ft, and maybe up to 6ft long and I am afraid the copper will be too heavy, stressing the socket and the male end. My concern with the plastic tubing is being brittle in the cold?
 
My concern with the plastic tubing is being brittle in the cold?


Dave,
No worries about the CVPC being brittle, just the opposite, it has some give. If you strike something the light pole will flex and give rather than break the pole or socket. My modified light has been in service now in excess of ten years. I'm not sure just what it measures, I just made it tall enough to be above my head at all times. This way it is also above the tall marsh grasses and such. I want to be seen!! If I remember, I'll take a photo tonight when I get home from work of the light as it sits on my present boat.
The first picture is of the light as it was installed on my previous boat. The next two photos shows how the CVPC plastic tubing will fit over the original aluminum tube. I actually just left a stub of the original tubing to fit into the CVPC tubing. You must heat the CVPC up pretty warm to get it pliable enough to push over the aluminum. You can see in the photos the bump where the end of the inner aluminum is located. Make sure to bevel the leading edge to help it slide together smoothly.
BTW; the CVPC tubing is ordinary plastic water pipe rated for cold water only, real cheap and available at the big box stores. I got mine at the local farm fleet.
IMG_0033.jpg~original



IMG_0034.jpg~original

IMG_0035.jpg~original

 
Guys,

Here are a couple current photos. My light measures 72 inches over all length. The 2nd photo shows how well the CVPC will flex, yet it does not sway excessively when in route across the water.

IMGP0207_zpslhsgzhbk.jpg%7Eoriginal


IMGP0208_zpsi4w8v1p2.jpg%7Eoriginal

 
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